Getting a Puppy: The Ultimate Guide for First Time Dog Owners

The Chomp and Chew Guide to Having a Puppy in Your Life

Chapter 1: Loyalty and Friendship - Why Puppies Improve Your Life

Getting a puppy is one of the most exciting things in life. It is a magical time where you experience many firsts through your puppy's eyes. You get to see them explore new things and watch them try to make sense of this great big world, they’ve entered.

Not only do puppies give us joy and entertainment, but they also provide us with loyalty and friendship for the rest of their lives. It is probably one reason you’re considering getting a puppy (or you’ve done so already). As most dog owners will tell you: dogs provide a sense of companionship that doesn’t quite measure up to our other relationships. It is the type of loyalty and friendship that stands the test of time and improves the owner’s life, providing some surprising benefits along the way.

Dogs Are Loyal to the Bone

When thinking of a dog, the first word that comes to mind is LOYALTY. Dogs are known for their unconditional loyalty to their pack, which in this case is you and your family. Your dog will have a strong feeling of devotion, support, and allegiance toward you without any ulterior motives. But why are dogs so loyal in the first place?

It’s in a dog’s nature to be loyal. You might have heard that dogs are pack animals, but what does that mean? Dogs naturally thrive better when they move in a group that makes up their family or pack. In this pack setting, dogs rely on each other for survival and companionship. For instance, in the wild, some dogs may be better at protecting, while others may be better at scent work and seeking out potential food sources.

Although your pet is domesticated, s/he still has the natural instinct that living in a pack is better for their survival. So, instead of relying on other dogs for survival, companionship, and sociability, your dog depends on you and your family.

But what does this have to do with loyalty? Well, being in a pack means that each dog needs to be loyal to the rest for maximum chances of survival. If some pack members are not reliable, the pack’s survival will falter. So, a dog feels compelled to have a sense of allegiance and support to the pack. That’s the only way they know how to survive.

Dogs have a shared history with people. Thousands of years ago, there weren’t any domesticated dogs on earth. It is only through the accidental domestication of some wolves that dogs came to exist as we know them today (How did dogs become our best friends?). That’s thanks to the shared history between wolves and people.

As you can figure out, dogs are descended from wolves. Although there is no clear evidence on how domestication started, there are a few theories on the topic. The most popular theory is that people used to set up camp in the wild (keep in mind that housing consisted of tents, not the secure buildings we have today).

As people prepared food, they had to put their scraps somewhere. This lured the wolves closer to the people’s tents. The closer the wolves got to the humans and the more they benefited from the people’s scraps, the more wolves chose to stick around humans as they travelled.

For a few thousand years, some wolves grew loyal to people because they got food and sometimes even affection from some people. Scientists believe that this shared history between humans and wolves attributes to the deep form of loyalty our dogs have toward us today.

Dogs are loyal to those who meet their needs. Like with any relationship, if you take care of one another, loyalty comes naturally. In your puppy’s case, it means that you provide them with everything s/he needs to live a comfortable life. If dogs feel safe and fulfilled in their environments, they will be devoted to the hand who made it possible.

These needs are more than just providing food and shelter. It means creating a living environment where your dog feels totally safe. Here’s a list of needs every dog has, and if you meet all of them, your dog will be loyal forever:

• A dog needs a safe place to sleep where s/he is protected from harsh weather conditions and has a peaceful night’s rest. The safer your dog feels at night, the better s/he will sleep, and the more trust s/he will put in you.
• A dog needs a reliable food schedule, so s/he doesn’t feel the need to scavenge for food by her-/himself.
• A dog needs enough physical and mental stimulation so that s/he won’t get bored. Some owners take this need for granted, but your dog needs daily stimulation. The less bored s/he is and the more attention you give, the better your bond will be, and thus the loyalty as well.
• A dog needs a person who ensures the dog’s health is as good as possible. In this case, dogs need preventative measures like vaccines, deworming, and tick and flea prevention to ensure they don’t get sick.
• A dog needs grooming according to their needs. Some dogs need more frequent grooming than others. But if these practices are neglected, dogs can get serious skin infections or painful mats.
• A dog needs social interactions, whether with other people or dogs. They are social beings and thrive in social settings.

These are all the basic needs of each dog. If an owner doesn’t meet these needs, it can place unwanted stress on the dog and diminish the level of trust s/he has. Think about it. If a dog feels unsafe in the pack, it means the pack doesn’t have their back. In turn, it means that s/he doesn’t have to be loyal to someone who couldn’t ensure their survival.

Dogs may experience an emotion similar to how we experience love. Studies show that the part of a puppy’s brain similar to a person’s love centre lights up when s/he smells their human’s scent. These scientists examined the activity in dogs’ brains when they smelled different items like toys and food, etc. It was only when an item of clothing of the owner was presented to the dogs that the part associated with love lit up. So, scientists believe that dogs can feel a form of love, especially toward their owners.

We all know that love is a powerful emotion, and we would do anything for those we love. Similarly, dogs who love us will do anything to protect us or make us happy. That support and devotion is the epitome of loyalty.

Why Puppies Become Your Best Friend

Dogs provide a sense of companionship that starts forming when you bring your puppy home. There’s more to dogs than having another living being in the house. It also means that you get a best friend for as long as s/he lives. Having this canine friend in your corner means you’ll never be lonely. You’ll learn valuable lessons and benefit from each other’s company while stimulating the dog’s instincts. Let’s have a closer look at what this means:

• Your dog is always there for you, no matter what: Like unconditional love and loyalty, your dog will always be there for you to provide comfort, companionship, and love. It is the type of friend you can always count on.
• You and your dog learn from each other: Both dog and owner can learn many valuable lessons from each other. For instance, dogs learn how to act appropriately in the human world. On the other hand, people can learn the true meaning of unconditional love and how to protect a sentient being.
• You and your dog have a mutually beneficial relationship: You already know that your dog benefits from meeting their needs, but you can benefit from a dog in your life. Some people experience less stress because of their dogs, and others feel less lonely (see the benefits of getting a puppy below).
• It’s in your dog’s nature to befriend you, the caretaker: Becoming your friend goes hand in hand with your dog’s instinct to be in a pack. You are now your dog’s pack family and therefore get to experience the joy of canine friendship.

How Getting a Puppy Benefit Your Life

Most people don’t get puppies for the sake of getting one. They have reasons for adopting these pups. The most common reasons are that people seek unconditional companionship or they’d like to feel less lonely at home. Although these are the most common reasons, other benefits of getting a puppy might surprise you. These benefits are:

• Research shows that puppies reduce people’s stress levels (Companion animals and human health): Studies show that people with dogs experience lower stress levels than those without dogs. It’s probably because petting a dog releases the feel-good hormone (oxytocin) and decreases the stress hormone (cortisol).
• Puppies provide protection (in the long run): Although your puppy can’t necessarily protect you against harm now, s/he will grow up with a strong urge to keep you safe as s/he grows up. It can be protecting you against harm or warning you of any potential dangers, etc.
• Having a puppy makes you more active: It doesn’t matter which dog breed you get; they all need to be active to keep their physical health top-notch. Most dogs need to go for daily walks, so the more you walk your dog, the more active you become.
• Research shows that people with dogs have better heart health: Studies show that people with dogs have lower blood pressure. That’s probably because stress is a massive contributor to heart conditions. So, because a dog can help lower your stress levels, s/he contributes to your heart health as well.
• Having a puppy curbs loneliness: This one is quite obvious, but getting a dog will make you feel less lonely. Whether it’s the pup’s mere presence in an otherwise quiet home or their physical touch, it provides company.
• Getting a puppy can make you more social: Let’s be honest; a puppy is a great conversation piece. Wherever you go, you can use your puppy as a buffer for conversation. Not only do you have something to talk about if things get awkward, but you’ll seem more approachable to other people, setting you up for social success. It’s interesting to note that studies proved people with dogs make friends easier than those without dogs.
• Puppies can help people cope in crises: If you are prone to anxiety or other conditions like post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD), then a puppy can help you manage when you have an episode. Usually, if these conditions are severe, you would get a service dog who is trained on how to react to an episode. But even people with mild cases of anxiety or everyday stressors will benefit from the calming effect dogs have.

Chapter 2: Choosing Your Puppy

Getting a puppy is such an exciting journey, and everyone walks this path differently. Some people do lots of research before choosing a puppy, while others go with the first puppy available. While there isn’t necessarily something wrong with adopting the first available puppy, a few things are to consider. If you don’t, you might end up with a pooch that doesn’t quite fit into your lifestyle. There are so many things to think about when choosing your pup. The choices are almost unlimited regarding the breed, background, temperament, activity level, etc. It can feel a little overwhelming if you’re unsure what to look for. But we’re here to make your decision-making process easier by guiding your thought process regarding the dog you want.

What Do You Want From a Dog?

When you consider getting a puppy, think about how the pup will fit into your lifestyle. Try to look past the cute puppy phase and think about the type of adult dog you’d want in your life. The puppy phase doesn’t last long, and you will have an adult dog for much longer than the puppy itself. So, it’s essential to ask yourself what type of adult dog you want in your future (a year or more from now).

The most important decision you can make is to ensure that s/he fits in well enough to adapt quickly. Not only are you choosing a puppy that suits your way of life, but you’re also considering whether this dog will be happy in your family by adapting well. Each consideration will help you choose the type of dog you really need.

Remember, it doesn’t matter how badly you want a specific dog breed; if their temperaments and personality traits don’t fit into your lifestyle, they might not be the type of dog you need.

So, when choosing a puppy, think about the following aspects of your life:

1. How active are you? Your level of activity and whether you’d like to make your dog part of your activity level are vital considerations. Some people want to go on hikes or long walks with their dogs. Others might not enjoy such an active lifestyle (or they simply don’t have enough time in the day to do it). If you are a more active person, you will do well with the type of dog that can keep up with your energy levels. On the other hand, if you don’t want to be as active, you would do well with a dog that’s perfectly happy basking in the sun the whole day.
2. How affectionate are you with dogs? Are you the type of person that like to give lots of hugs and kisses, or are you not that fond of physical touch? Answering this question will determine whether you need a dog that tolerates (or even craves) the owner’s physical touch or one that doesn’t like to be touched as often. Because many people want dogs as companions, this aspect is crucial, so you and your dog have the same tolerance for embrace and snuggles.
3. How much time do you have to spend on a dog per day? Some dogs need more attention than others. High energy dogs usually get bored quickly, so they need to spend more time with their owners, participating in stimulating activities. Lower energy dogs are those who prefer to sleep most of the day. So, when you answer this question, don’t just think about the type of dog you’d like. Also, think about how much time you can dedicate to your dog every day for the next 10-15 years. Yes, puppies will need more attention than when they get older. But considering your amount of dog-dedicated time per day, you can ensure that you and your dog get enough stimulation from this mutually beneficial relationship.
4. How much effort do you want to put into grooming practices? How often will you be able to groom your dog yourself? If you don’t want to groom your dog yourself, how often can you make an appointment at the grooming salon? Some dogs have high maintenance coats that need weekly attention, while others can go without a brush for two months. So, research how often the dog of your choice would need grooming and whether you’re ready for the responsibility.
5. How much time do you want to put into training? Most dogs need basic training to help adapt their behaviours to their new world. This training will usually include house training, basic obedience, and walking on a lead without pulling. Then, you can advance your dog’s training by taking it a step further. While keeping this in mind, know that some dogs are more eager to learn and work for their owners than others. That’s why you should consider how much time you have to train your dog. For instance, a Belgian Malinois loves to work and have a purpose, thus needing lots of training. On the other hand, a Pug likes to be lazy and not work as hard, thus not needing as much training.
6. How big is your living environment? It’s a common misconception that all small dog breeds do well in smaller apartments, while large dog breeds need large yards. Sometimes it can be the other way around. It all depends on your dog’s energy levels and how much physical stimulation s/he needs each day. If you live in a small apartment, consider getting a dog that doesn’t mind sleeping most of the day. However, if you are an active person in a small apartment, consider whether you’ll have enough time to take your dog for walks twice a day.

To help you choose a dog breed, make a list of the breeds you’d prefer and their characteristics based on the questions above. Then determine which breeds will adapt best to you and your family’s way of life. Some people might not want purebred dogs and prefer a mixed breed dog. If this is the case, you can usually find mixed breed dogs at your local dog rescue centre. There the staff should be able to help you pinpoint each puppy’s temperament so you can make the best choice possible.

How to Choose a Puppy From a Breeder

If you’re at the point where you know what dog breed you’d want, you should think about how to choose the puppy from the breeder. Keep in mind that there are many legitimate breeders that know what they’re doing. But unfortunately, some people use unethical practices when breeding dogs, which can impact the type of puppy you get. So, when you choose a puppy from a breeder, follow the guidelines below to make the best decision possible.

1. Ask to see the mum and dad. If the pup’s mum and dad are healthy, the puppies will be too. So, ask the breeder if you can see the mum and dad up close. Some breeders only have the mum on-site, but you can still ask to see a picture of the dad. If there are any malformations in either, the chances are that they could be genetically passed down to the puppies as well.
2. Look at the living quarters of the puppies. As you look at these quarters, observe whether the puppies have shelter, water, something to keep them warm, and good hygiene. How the puppies live will tell you a lot about the puppies’ breeding practices and health. Be sceptical if a breeder doesn’t want to show you the living quarters. As harsh as it sounds, some breeders put dogs and puppies in cages just to sell one after the other. However, ethical dog breeders will be more than happy to show you where the pups live.
3. Look at the puppy’s physical appearance. As you look at the litter, look at how each puppy appears physically. By looking at the puppy’s physicality, you can tell whether you’ll have long term issues that might cost a fortune to fix or not. So, look at the following:
   • Head: There is a spot on the top of the puppy’s head that is softer than the rest of the head. This spot shouldn’t be larger than a penny. Otherwise, it means the skull might have fractures.
   • Eyes: The puppy’s eyes should be clear and open easily without redness, swelling, or discharge.
   • Ears: The puppy’s ear canals should be dry and odourless. If it is moist, red, and stinky, it could mean that the puppy already has ear infections.
   • Nose: The puppy should breathe easily through the nose without making excessive strenuous noises. The nose can also have slight colourless discharges, which is normal.
   • Mouth: Most puppys’ upper and lower teeth should align, but some might have an underbite specific to the breed, like a bulldog. The puppy’s tongue and gums should be pink and moist and not dry and sticky.
   • Skin: The puppy’s skin shouldn’t be dry, flaking, have fluid-filled bumps, or be red.
   • Coat: The puppy’s coat should be shiny and have no areas of hair loss.
4. See how the litter mates interact with each other. How puppies interact with one another will tell you a lot about their temperament and characteristics. Some puppies might shy away from other pups and keep busy in the corner, while others might engage in roughish play. This part is essential to choosing the puppy from the litter that best suits your lifestyle.
5. Find a puppy with a temperament you like. Each puppy in the litter may have a different temperament than the other. Some might be more shy or timid, while others are more assertive and curious. Think about which temperament you prefer and look for the puppy that’s the closest match to that.
6. Ask the breeder these questions:
   • What health issues do the mum and dad have? The mum and dad’s health history gives an insight into the puppy’s possible health issues. Some conditions can be passed down genetically, while others won’t affect the pup at all. Your breeder could answer these questions.
   • What health prevention or vaccines do the puppies get? Do the puppies get vaccinations and deworming treatments? If so, how often do they get them and will the breeder provide you with proof, like a vaccination card? Vaccinations and deworming will keep the pups from getting fatal transmittable diseases.
   • When can we take the puppy home? Puppies can usually go to their new homes at 8-12 weeks. It might be a red flag if a breeder wants to give you the puppy earlier. Puppies learn to be dogs and socialise through interaction with their mother and littermates.
   • Are you a registered breeder? Okay, not all breeders have to be registered necessarily, but a registered breeder will be more likely to do proper breeding practices and provide healthy puppies.

The easiest way to do this research is to see the puppies for yourself. Take your time when you do these observations. The more intently you look at each puppy, the environment, and the parents, the better decision you can make on which one to choose.

How to Choose a Puppy From a Rescue Centre

If you don’t want to get a puppy from a breeder and prefer to adopt one from a rescue centre, there are other guidelines for choosing the right puppy. There are similarities to selecting a pup from a breeder. The difference is that you won’t necessarily be able to meet the parents, see the original living quarters when the puppies were born, or know the exact history of the puppy. Don’t let that stop you, though. Adopting a puppy means you’re giving the home s/he deserves! So, here are things to consider when choosing a puppy from a rescue centre:

1. Visit the puppy at the rescue centre: Again, there is nothing as insightful as seeing where the puppy lives, how s/he reacts with other dogs, and how s/he interacts with you and your family. When you visit the puppy, you can do the same physical appearance checks as when choosing a pup from a breeder. It will help you determine whether the puppy will have long term health issues. Select reputable charities and rescue centres, such as the Dog Trust. Most breeds have breed specific rescue centres as well (for example, Beagle Welfare).
2. Ask about the puppy’s health issues or condition s/he was when coming to the centre initially. Sometimes the centre staff could tell you where the puppies were rescued from, e.g. the streets or a loving home whose dog gave birth, but they couldn’t afford eight puppies. Other times the staff won’t know about the health history or diseases. That’s okay too. As long as you gather as much information as possible, you can choose a puppy wisely.
3. See whether you like the puppy’s temperament during your visit. Play with the puppies you visit. See which one’s temperament and behaviours you gravitate towards the most. It could be as simple as sitting on the floor and seeing which puppy comes to you first. Or it could be the puppy that hovers around you the most. When you see one with a temperament you like, s/he will likely adapt easier to your way of life.
4. See how the puppy interacts with other dogs or puppies. If you have other dogs at home, this step is crucial. If the puppy is aggressive toward other dogs, you might consider getting a different one. How puppies interact with one another tells a lot about how they’ll behave in social situations.
5. Find out what breed the puppy is. It won’t always be easy, but if you can pinpoint the breed, you can research those breeds’ pros and cons. The more you know about a puppy before you get one, the easier both of you will adapt.

Choosing a puppy is fun-filled and exciting, but getting the right puppy for your family is even more exhilarating. There is nothing quite like getting a pup that effortlessly fits into your lifestyle! So, make this decision for you and your family. Don’t choose a puppy based on a movie you’ve seen or because someone else’s dog seems nice. It might be that those dogs had lots of training before getting to that point. All that matters is whether you and your puppy will go together like peanut butter and jelly!

Chapter 3: Preparing Yourself and Your Home for the Pup

Before you even get your puppy, there are a few things to think about, like preparing yourself and your home. Although your home is perfect for yourself and your family to live in, it might not necessarily be puppy-friendly enough. Because puppies don’t know the lay of the land yet, you need to prepare your home to keep them safe while teaching them boundaries. So, let’s look at some tips and tricks to keep your puppy out of harm’s way.

Prepare Your Home

When you prepare your home keep the new little furry friend in mind. Look around and ask yourself whether the puppy will be safe and comfortable in each room. As you do this, remove or secure potential hazards and create cosy nooks to ensure a puppy-friendly area. Here are the tips and tricks to prepare your home:

• Barricade entrances to off-limits areas. Decide which areas you don’t want your woofer to go, whether it’s rooms you wish to keep dog-free or whether it’s to keep your pup out of harm’s way. For example, some people don’t want dogs to go into their bedrooms. Other times people put a puppy gate at the top and bottom of stairs to keep the pups from falling. So, block the entrances to areas where your puppy could be in harm’s way or where you don’t want them to go.
• Lock cleaning chemicals away. Be mindful of where you store your cleaning chemicals. Puppies don’t know that it can make them sick, so they might ingest it if they get the chance. So, be sure that you safely store the cleaning chemicals where your pooch can’t reach them. Even if you keep those supplies in a bottom cabinet, ask yourself whether your puppy will be able to open the door. If so, consider moving the chemicals to a top-shelf.
• Secure loose wires and electric cables. Puppies tend to chew on everything at first, so ensure that your puppy can’t reach the electric wires or cables. It can cause serious electric harm to the pup if s/he chews on one of those wires, and it can even be fatal. Not only can a puppy chew on the cables, but they can trip over them and drag items to fall on top of them, causing unwanted injuries as well as mess in the house.
• Put items on side tables or coffee tables away. Any objects on coffee tables or side tables that are not secure in place can fall over and harm your puppy. So, ask yourself what the likelihood of the item falling down is. If it’s a high probability, secure the item so it won’t fall or store it somewhere else until the puppy is old enough not to bump things off.
• Store medications out of reach. Many human medications are hazardous to a dog’s health. So, instead of keeping medicine where a puppy can reach it, store it someplace safe. For example, some people keep their medication on the bedside table, but if your pup sleeps on your bed, s/he can get hold of the pills.
• Keep windows and doors closed. While puppies still figure out how to manoeuvre their bodies, keep doors and windows closed, so they don’t accidentally fall or jump out and get hurt. Be mindful of this, especially if you live in an apartment or where your pup can fall far down.
• Ensure that the bin is secured. Puppies are curious little things and will explore anything that smells alluring. It includes accidentally bumping over the trash can for further investigation. Then the puppies can chew or swallow items that are either not good for their diet, get stuck in their throats, or seriously harm them. So, ensure your bin is secured in place or stored away from your pup’s reach.
• Keep dangerous house plants out of reach. There are so many houseplants that are toxic to dogs and can cause harmful side effects. So, do some research about the house plants in your area that are hazardous to dogs. Then, if you have some of those, either get rid of them or ensure that your puppy can’t reach them and start chewing on them.
• Create a safe space to sleep. Get your furry-friend a dog bed and blanket or pillow. A puppy must have a place to nap where s/he can feel safe. When these pups were still in a litter, they counted on their littermates and mum to help keep them warm. Now that the puppy doesn’t have that anymore, s/he needs a cosy spot to meet those needs. A dog crate with the door off and a blanket inside is the perfect safety nest for a pup. The first night can be challenging, read our article on the subject to get you and your puppy set up for a calm First Night at Home.

Prepare Your Garden

Just like making your home puppy-safe, you should do the same with your garden, paddock, or any outside area your puppy will have access to. Here are some things to consider when doing that:

• Fencing so your puppy can’t escape. Ensure that you barricade your outside area properly so your little trouble can’t escape. Some fences have large holes where the pup can fit through, so consider adding reinforced material (like mesh) to keep the puppy from squeezing through.
• Keep your puppy away from hazardous plants. Again, many garden plants are toxic to dogs. So, research the plants you have in your garden and whether they’re safe for your puppy. If not, consider either getting rid of the plants or putting up barriers so your puppy can’t reach them. We have already written an article detailing poisonous garden plants, which you might find helpful.

• Lock garden or pool chemicals away. Be careful of any garden or pool chemicals lying around. Your puppy can ingest them and get very sick. So, consider locking it away in a shed, cupboard, or shelf high enough so the pooch can’t reach them.
• Block access to pools or ponds. Keep in mind that this is only applicable if you're lucky enough to have a pool or pond built into the ground. Most puppies have an instinct to swim, so a pool or pond isn’t dangerous because a puppy can’t swim. It’s dangerous because the puppies get shocked when falling into the water and panic. They also don’t know where the steps are to exit the water. So, until you didn’t teach this to your puppy numerous times, block access to pools or ponds.
• Provide enough shelter from the elements. Give puppies protection from weather elements like the sun, wind, or rain, especially if they will spend most of their time outside. And when it snows, bring your puppy inside. Some people prefer to leave their dogs out when they go to work, and that’s perfectly fine. As long as the dog has a shelter, s/he should be fine. With this in mind, think about how comfortable the puppy will be in the sheltered area. Is it warm enough, cool enough, doesn’t let the wind through, and is water-resistant?
• Have fresh water available. Your puppy should always have fresh water available both inside and outside every day (unless your vet advises you otherwise). Puppies can quickly get dehydrated, so they need continuous access to water. And you’ll have to put out fresh water every day to ensure that there aren’t any bacteria, fungus, or parasites that can enter your puppy’s system.
• If you have a lawn, keep it trimmed. Ticks and parasites usually like to hide in the long grass. So if you have a yard, ensure that it is cut regularly.
• Have a designated toileting area and keep it clean. Create a designated toileting area for your pup and pick up the faeces as soon as possible. It helps keep the site hygienic and prevents the puppy from eating the excretions.

Prepare Yourself

Next, you have to be prepared for all aspects of puppy parenthood. Take some time to research the puppy you’re getting and how to be a good puppy parent. Here are some tips and tricks that might help:

Know what to expect from your puppy

Every puppy is different, so prepare yourself for your specific puppy. You can consult your breeder, the rescue centre, or even your vet. As you do this, find out more about your puppy’s:

• Feeding schedule: what, how much, how often, and when should s/he eat?
• House training needs: is s/he housetrained? (if not, read the next chapter)
• Amount of exercise needed: It’s usually 5 minutes per month of age daily
• Your puppy’s character traits: every breed has different character traits, so be prepared for what your puppy’s characteristics may be

Choose your local vet

Look for the local veterinarians in your area and choose one as your go-to vet for your puppy. It’s good to narrow this down because you won’t have time to do this research in an emergency. Also, ensure that you have an emergency number written down.

What will you do with the puppy when you work or travel?

Dogs should usually not be home alone for more than 6 hours. It may be shorter for puppies, especially when they first arrive at their new homes. So, consider taking your puppy to daycare, getting a pet sitter, or having a friend or family member look after the pup. Until you’re confident your puppy can cope when home alone, don’t let them be alone for too long at first.

Equipment You’ll Need

• Crate or carrier

• Playpen
• Collar or harness
• ID tag
• Lead
• Poop bags
• Food and water bowls
• Puppy food
• Food storing container
• Food measuring scoop
• Feeding mat
• Training treats (ideal ones include our Training Treats, Sprats and Rabbit ears)
• Treat bag
• Wipes or cleaning products
• Brush
• Dog-friendly shampoo (see our selection of natural Dog shampoos)
• Dog-friendly toothbrush and toothpaste
• Nail clippers
• Ear cleaning solution
• Toys
• Puppy training pads - we would advise against using these, and discussed it thoroughly in our House Training a Puppy article

Chapter 4: Housetraining Your Puppy

Housetraining is probably one of the first and most important things you can teach your puppy. You can start with this training from the moment the puppy enters your home. Remember that your puppy doesn’t have bladder control yet, and s/he doesn’t know where the appropriate place is to go. So, it is up to you to teach your puppy these things. Don’t worry, though. We’ll teach you what you need to know to start this house-training journey.

Things to Know Before Housetraining Your Puppy

Before we get to the step-by-step guide, there are a few things you need to know before you start housetraining your puppy. Knowing these things will make the training so much easier for both you and the pup.

Create a Designated Housetraining Area

All dogs rely on scent to know where they’re supposed to do their business, and if there isn’t a spot with a familiar smell, they will go anywhere. So, it is helpful to dedicate a specific place in your garden or on the patio. As puppies recognise their elimination scent in that spot, it will help them associate the particular area with elimination practices. So, when you housetrain your puppy, go to the same site every time. It will help the pup learn where to eliminate quicker. However, if you live in an apartment, consider getting an artificial toileting area (there are loads available online) or take your puppy to the same nearest grass area outside your apartment every time.

Signs Your Puppy Needs to Go

Although puppies will usually get into a routine quickly when housetraining, you should watch for signs your puppy needs to go. Knowing these signs will help prevent messes inside the house and minimise the clean-ups. So, the sooner you can spot that your puppy needs to go, the sooner you can take them to the designated area. These signs are:

• Sniffing around the house
• Moving in circles
• Squatting
• Whining, barking, or scratching at the door leading to the designated area
• Being restless
• Sniffing at or licking the groin area
• Going back to a spot in the house where s/he messed before
• Staring at you for longer than usual

Remember, though, not to shout or freak out when your puppy shows these signs. It can scare them, eventually leading to messing in the house in areas you won’t notice. This usually happens because the puppy is too scared to do it out in the open and doesn’t fully understand exactly where to do its business yet.

Puppies Won’t Go Where They Sleep: Why a Crate is a Useful Tool

Dogs are pretty hygienic when it comes to their sleeping areas. They usually won’t do their business where they’re supposed to sleep. So, a helpful tool with housetraining is a crate as your dog’s sleeping area. Some people don’t think that crates are humane, but if you introduce your puppy slowly, your pup will learn to love to sleep in them. S/he might even prefer it as it simulates a safe den. It would be best to get your puppy used to the crate first. It will ensure s/he feels safe and doesn’t associate a traumatic experience with the crate.

Getting puppies used to crates is easy. Here’s how to do it:

1. Put your pup’s blanket inside, creating a cosy, safe space
2. Leave the crate door open (or even take it off at first until s/he gets used to it)
3. Lure your puppy inside with a treat (Browse suitable chews and treats on our Puppy Treats page)
4. Once s/he gets inside, give the treat as a reward
5. Reward your little fur-ball every time s/he goes into the crate willingly

As your puppy gets used to the crate, s/he can learn how to be comfortable with the doors closed. Here’s how to teach it:

1. Once your pup is comfortable (give it a week or so), put the crate door back
2. When s/he goes inside, close the door briefly (one or two seconds)
3. Reward your pup with a treat and open the door
4. Do this a few times, increasing the time the door is closed by a few seconds each time
5. At first, sit where your pup can see you so s/he knows s/he’s not alone
6. Soon, you can step away for a few seconds before opening the door
7. Finally, your pup will be comfortable sleeping in the crate even if you’re in another room

This technique helps prevent unnecessary spoils inside the house if you can’t watch your puppy for an hour or so. Just be mindful of how long your puppy is inside the crate because s/he can’t hold it for too long. S/he will have to go to the designated area every 2-4 hours.

Positive Reinforcement Works Better Than Negative Reinforcement

Some people still believe that you have to push your puppy’s nose into the spoiled mess forcefully and shout at them. Unfortunately, all this does is traumatise the pup and can cause increased anxiety. Dogs respond so much better to positive reinforcement. Not only are they less stressed, but they also get rewarded for a job well done. These rewards encourage them to repeat the behaviour that led to the prize, making acceptable behaviours easier for them to grasp. So, use positive reinforcement and try not to scold your pup for messing in the house. Accidents happen, and scolding them will only regress the training done to that point.

When Puppies Are Fully Housetrained

There are many promises that you can fully housetrain a puppy in a few days, which is simply not true. Yes, you can teach your pooch how to show you when s/he needs to go. S/he will even learn where to go and what the potty schedule is. However, puppies don’t have complete control over their bladders until they are 4-6 months old. Don’t worry. It doesn’t mean that your puppy will not have any control. S/he should be able to hold it in for about 2 hours at first. But if the bladder is full, s/he won’t have the control to keep it in a bit longer. This means that your puppy can still have accidents. So, you still have to keep to a schedule and watch your puppy minimise the messes inside the house until s/he’s 4-6 months old.

A Housetraining Schedule

Something that would make housetraining so much easier for you and your pup is a housetraining schedule. Although puppies can’t control their eliminations just yet, they will form some routine. For instance, at first, your puppy would probably need to go every 2-4 hours. Once you’ve established your puppy’s unique timeframe, you can make a schedule for taking your puppy out when the timer goes off. You can also jot down when puppies usually need to go. It is pretty easy to predict, and if you make it part of the housetraining schedule, you could avoid many spoils in your home.

When puppies usually need to go:

• First thing in the morning
• 15-45 minutes after eating a meal
• Every 2-4 hours
• After playtime
• Right before going to bed at night
• Initially, every 4 hours during the night

Remember to keep an eye out for those telltale signs that your puppy might need to go. Puppies could still need to go at other times than those set in your schedule. But the closer you keep to a program, the sooner the pup will fall into step with the routine.

How to Housetrain Your Puppy: Step-by-Step

Housetraining a puppy is easy, but you need to be consistent, calm and use positive instead of negative reinforcement. So, have a jar of bite-sized treats ready to grab whenever you need to take your puppy to the designated potty spot. You can also put your puppy’s collar and lead it close to the door to put it on your pup on the way out. It would help keep the puppy’s attention to the task at hand without getting distracted and forgetting what s/he needs to do.

Follow these steps every time you take your fluff-ball on a potty break as per your puppy’s unique housetraining schedule:

1. Grab some treats and put your puppy’s collar and lead on.
2. Take your pup to the designated potty spot at your scheduled times or when your puppy shows signs that s/he needs to go.
3. Give your puppy your chosen housetraining cue, like “potty.” It will help your puppy learn when being outside means play or exercise and when it’s time for elimination practices.
4. After giving the cue, don’t say any word from that point and stay at the potty spot until s/he goes. It’s important not to distract the puppy by talking or doing anything other than the task at hand.
5. Wait until your puppy is finished and give a verbal reward, like “good puppy” followed by a tasty treat.
6. If your puppy didn’t go within 5-10 minutes, go back inside, wait 5-10 minutes, and try steps 1-5 again. There is no point in dwelling outside if your puppy doesn’t want to go right away.

Repeat steps 1-5 every time you take your puppy outside. The more consistent you are, the quicker your pup will understand the housetraining routines, and the less effort you will have to put into the training.

What to Do if Your Puppy is About to Mess Inside the House?

How you handle this type of situation impacts all other housetraining efforts directly. So, be careful not to shout at your pup or scare them as it can diminish your progress so far. Instead, here’s how to properly manage this situation:

1. If you catch your puppy in the act, say a stern “no.” It should be loud enough, so your puppy understands that spoiling in the home is not allowed, yet gentle enough not to scare your puppy.
2. Pick your puppy up immediately and take them to the designated spot. If you have time, grab the treats, collar, and lead. If you don’t, that’s okay. Just get to the potty spot as soon as possible.
3. Follow the initial steps (2-6) as if you’re taking your puppy out on a routine housetraining outing.
4. After you follow those steps and your pup does the deed, it’s essential to clean up any mess inside the house. Be sure to use cleaning products that get rid of the smell because not all house cleaning products do this. If there is any trace of the spoil left, your puppy will smell it and see that spot as a good potty spot, increasing the chance of a repeated mess inside the house.

What If Your Puppy Already Messed Inside the House But You Didn’t See It Happening?

There’s not much you can do other than sharping up your observations and preventing it from happening again. Because dogs learn in the moment, your pup won’t remember what s/he did wrong if you scold them for something they did more than a few seconds ago. If you try to correct the behaviour, your puppy will not understand why and what s/he could have done differently. Instead, s/he might associate the action of elimination with getting scolded, leading to a mess in the house again. But this time, the spoil will be somewhere you won’t see it for a while (like behind a couch or under a bed) because s/he thinks elimination will lead to punishment.

Remember, accidents happen. In fact, you can expect a few accidents until your puppy has complete control of the bladder. All you can do is clean the mess so your puppy doesn’t associate that spot with a potty area next time. Even if you can’t smell it, puppies still can, so clean it thoroughly. So, be sure that you observe your puppy more closely next time. It may even be time to tweak the housetraining schedule a bit. And always clean any messes

Chapter 5: Basic Cues to Teach Your Puppy

There are a few basic cues any puppy owner can start teaching their puppies. These cues are essential to setting boundaries, creating a solid puppy-owner bond, and stimulating your puppy’s mind. These cues will set your future training practices up for success by creating a solid foundation when your puppy’s mind is still like a sponge.

Helpful Tips Before Training Your Puppy

Before starting with the step-by-step training guides, consider a few training tips. Knowing and implementing these suggestions will make training easier, getting the most out of each training session. The more consistently you implement these tips, the quicker your puppy will learn and the more training success you will have.

Positive Reinforcement Works

The basis of your reward system should be positive reinforcement. Like people, dogs need some reward showing them that they did something right. Using a high-quality reward that your puppy will love will prompt them to repeat activities that led to the reward in the first place. For instance, if you give your puppy a treat after sitting on command, s/he will reperform the task with more ease and willingness than when s/he didn’t receive a reward.

Some people correct or scold their dogs if they don’t do as the owner asks. All this does is shut the dog’s mind down, making it less likely that information will be retained. So, don’t scold your dog. Instead, be patient and try the training steps again if your dog struggles.

Using Markers Alongside Positive Reinforcement

A marker is a sound you make to let your puppy know which exact action s/he just performed correctly. It could be a simple word, like “yes,” or it can be a clicker. For example, if you teach your puppy to sit, say “yes” or make a click the moment your puppy’s bum touches the ground. This way, s/he associates the correct action with the command you use.

Without markers, dogs can get confused about what the owners want them to do. For example, if you teach your puppy to come to you, s/he might associate the command “come” with standing up from a sit instead of the action of walking toward you. So, it is essential to mark the action associated with your cue.

Then, after you’ve given the marker, you can give a reward. The reward is a motivator, so your puppy repeats this acceptable behaviour in the future. So, to sum it up:

• A marker marks the correct action
• A reward is a positive reinforcement tool showing your pup s/he did something right

You can use toys or treats as rewards. Our Training Treats ideal to use for little rewards as they are just a small piece ideal for little pup mouths and also they are low in calories but high in protein as they are 100% pure meat. Sprats are also great or if you want to give your pup a ‘bigger’ reward at the end of the session, Rabbit ears would be a good option.

How Long to Train Your Puppy Every Day

Puppies don’t have large attention spans, so don’t over-train them. Overtraining can make a puppy bored and cause them to dislike training in general. Instead, train your puppy for 5-10 minutes sessions at a time. You can include 1-5 sessions daily, depending on your puppy’s eagerness to learn or your available schedule. As you do these sessions, also add some variety to the training. For example, don’t just teach your puppy to sit in one session. Try to vary two different cues. It keeps your puppy’s mind sharp, and don’t let them predict which command comes next.

Consistency is Key

With every training session, puppies learn quicker when their owners use the same techniques, step-by-step guides, reward systems, markers, verbal cues, and rewards. Because dogs are creatures of habit that thrive on structure, consistency will make your training even more successful. Even if there comes a day when your puppy doesn’t want to learn, don’t lose heart or patience but stay consistent.

Set Your Puppy Up for Success

It’s easy to get frustrated when our puppies don’t do as we ask, no matter how well we follow trainers’ advice and expertise. The fact is that your puppy will struggle at times. S/he won’t always be receptive to training, or some days s/he will struggle to understand you in training sessions. However, you can still do a few things to set your puppy up for success:

• Start each training session in an area with little to no distractions. The fewer distractions there are, the easier your puppy can focus on the task at hand.
• Only when your puppy reliably does a command in the quiet room can you move to an area with more distractions. The idea is that your puppy listens to your cues no matter the number of distractions. So, by slowly increasing your pup’s ability to listen and tolerate distractions, you will have more control in busy areas like the dog park.
• When you train a cue (e.g. “sit”), only say the word once. You want your puppy to learn that when you ask once, s/he should perform the associated action. If you use the command more than once, your puppy can learn that it’s okay to wait until you say it several times before s/he should comply.
• If your puppy fails to do a cue, try the step-by-step instructions again. Some puppies take longer to grasp a concept than others, and that’s okay.
• Never reward your puppy if s/he didn’t do exactly what you’ve asked. All this does is create confusion when training your puppy in the future.
• End each training session successfully. This means that your puppy should successfully perform the activity associated with the last cue you give in that session. So, if you’re teaching your puppy something new and s/he struggles to grasp it, let your puppy perform an action s/he already knows before ending the session. Finishing your training with success gives your puppy confidence and makes future training exciting.
• If you’re increasing the difficulty level of your training and your puppy makes a mistake, start the training steps from scratch. For example, imagine you’re teaching your puppy to stay, you’re increasing the difficulty from stepping two feet away to three, and your puppy moves out of the stay position. Then, go back to the basics and start the training as if your puppy has never done it before. This simple trick will help rewire your puppy’s brain and help prevent any bad behaviours from forming.

Your Step-by-Step Training Guides

Here are your basic step-by-step training guides to teach your puppy the essential cues. It is the most straightforward way to get your puppy to understand each action and get them to perform the task as you command reliably.

Teaching Your Puppy to Sit

1. Get some bite-sized treats your puppy will love
2. Start the training session in a quiet room with few distractions
3. Stand in front of your puppy, ensuring that s/he stands as well
4. Hold one treat between your thumb and index finger
5. Hold the treat just above your puppy’s nose
6. Say your command, e.g. “sit.”
7. Then, slowly move the treat over your puppy’s head. The idea is that the bum goes down when the head goes up.
8. The moment your puppy’s bum touches the ground, mark the action with a “yes.”
9. After marking the action, give a treat as a reward
10. Repeat steps 1-8 a few times every day until your puppy understands what to do. Then, slowly introduce more distractions so your puppy can learn to do the command no matter how many distractions.

Training Your Puppy Lie Down

Your puppy must know how to sit before teaching the “down” cue.

1. Grab some treats and stand in front of your puppy.
2. Start the training session in a quiet room with few distractions
3. Hold a treat against your puppy’s nose, ensuring that s/he doesn’t eat it prematurely
4. Give your chosen command, e.g. “down.”
5. Slowly move the treat straight down to the floor. Your puppy’s head should follow the treat.
6. Hold the treat tightly on the floor until your puppy lies down.
7. The moment your pup’s whole body is on the floor, mark the action and give a reward
8. If your puppy doesn’t lie down, follow steps 1-6. Then, move the treat away from your puppy while still on the floor. Your puppy should also lie down as a treat moves away on the floor. Be patient. This step might take a while for some puppies to grasp.
9. Follow steps 1-7 (or 1-6 and 8) depending on how fast your puppy grasped the concept.
10. When your puppy reliably lies down on cue, you can start to increase the distractions, e.g. taking the training to a louder room or outside.

Teaching Your Puppy to Stay

Before teaching the “stay” command, your puppy must know the “sit” cue. Also, keep in mind that a “stay” and “wait” are two different cues. The stay cue is when you want your puppy to stay in one spot until you return to them. So, only use the stay command when you’ll walk away from your puppy and return again.

1. Get some treats and start in a quiet room, getting your puppy to sit beside you.
2. Say your cue, e.g. “stay”, and give one small step forward.
3. After one second, return to your puppy’s side, mark the action, and give a treat as a reward.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 a few times until your puppy reliably stays in place when you move away.
5. Then, increase the time you step away from your puppy slowly. For example, stay away for two seconds, then three, then four, then three again. Varying the time spent away with smaller and longer timeframes will also prevent your puppy from predicting when you’ll return. It’s essential that you first increase the time before you increase the distance.
6. When your puppy stays in place for about 30 seconds reliably each time, you can slowly increase the distance. For example, start with two steps, then three, then four, etc.
7. If your puppy reliably stays for 30 seconds and about three feet away, you can increase the number of distractions and repeat training steps 2-6.

Training Your Puppy to Wait

Before teaching the “wait” command, your puppy must know the “sit” cue. Also, keep in mind that a “stay” and “wait” are two different cues. The wait cue is when you want your puppy to wait until you give another command. For example, a wait is perfect for keeping your puppy in place while putting down food. So, only use the wait command if you’ll walk away from your puppy but won’t return to your pup again.

1. Like the “stay” cue, stand next to your sitting puppy in a quiet room
2. Give your chosen cue, e.g. “wait”, and give one step away from your puppy.
3. Then, use a word that means the wait is over, for instance, “finish.” As you do this, place the treat on the floor, so your puppy gets out of the waiting position and moves to get the treat.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 until your puppy reliably waits in place.
5. Increase the difficulty level by stepping away from your puppy and placing the treat on the floor before giving the “finish” command. This means your puppy has to wait until s/he gets the go-ahead.
6. If your puppy moves before getting the finish signal, start steps 1-5 from scratch

This cue is perfect for training just before mealtime. So, instead of putting the treat on the floor, use your puppy’s meal as the reward.

Teaching Your Puppy to Come When Called

This cue can be lifesaving, especially in busy public environments, to call your dog back from a potentially dangerous situation. Before teaching your puppy to come when called, your pup should be able to wait in place for about three feet and 30 seconds.

1. Get some treats and get your puppy to wait in place in a quiet room
2. Step away from your puppy as you would with the waiting cue
3. Then hold the treat out so your puppy can see it while saying, “come.”
4. When your puppy gets to you, mark the action and give a reward.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 until your puppy reliably comes to you.
6. Slowly increase the difficulty level by increasing the number of distractions and the distance away from your pup.
7. If your puppy fails to come when called, go back to the basics and start the steps from scratch.

Training Your Puppy to Walk on a Lead Without Pulling

Dogs pulling on leads when going on walks is one of the most common yet easiest problems to fix. The sooner you implement this training hack with your puppy, the less inclined s/he will be to pull on the lead at all. This tip is so successful that you can use it on any dog, but it might take some longer to grasp the concept than others.

1. Put your puppy’s collar or harness on and clip on the lead.
2. Start by walking around in your home or apartment with fewer distractions.
3. The moment the lead has tension, stop walking. Stop dead in your tracks without looking at your pup or saying anything.
4. Then, when the tension loosens, continue walking. Again, don’t reward your puppy or say anything. S/he will learn that a tight lead means you’re not going anywhere, and a loose lead means adventure.
5. As your puppy reliably walks on a loose lead at home, you can start to take the walking outside. Again, when your puppy pulls, simply stand still until s/he doesn’t pull anymore. It’s as simple as that.