Dog Care, Nutrition & Training Blog
Dogs in heat
Not even dogs can avoid the dreaded periods! However, the similarities to a human period pretty much end here and as such if you happen to have a female dog, this article should help you with knowing what to do and how to recognise the first signs. When do female dogs have their first season? Just like humans, dogs are unique, so it varies. Smaller breeds tend to have it sooner, anytime between 6-8 months whilst larger breeds tends to go through it later, sometime between the age of 10-16 months. How to recognise if your dog is in heat? Again this can be wide-ranging but the most common signs include: more frequent urination being more interested in male dogs becoming flirty and more affectionate resting more How long is a dog in season? Most commonly the dog season lasts around 21 days but it can be a bit longer for some dogs. The dog period is often broken down into 4 stages and dogs behave differently in each stage. Proestrus stage This first stage can last from 3 to 17 days but most often lasts 9 days. The most obvious sign is the swelling of the vulva and it is impossible to miss this sign. Signs and behaviour changes: some female dogs become more affectionate, whilst others can become more grumpy some dogs lose their appetite whilst others might become hungrier during this phase the vulva will be swollen, in some dogs it is VERY obvious, less so in others bleeding will start and again for some dogs this will be quite light whilst for others it will be quite heavy most dogs will start guarding the vulva by tucking their tails between the legs or sitting down when another dog approaches Estrus stage This usually lasts on average 9 days but for some dogs, it could be as long as 21 days! This is the dangerous phase when your dog is fertile and more than willing to accept the advances made by the male dogs! Signs and behavioural changes: the bleeding becomes more light coloured the vulva becomes a little less swollen no more tail tucking, quite the opposite! Female dogs become very flirty and actually turn their rear toward male dogs and holding the tail high and out of the way your girl will wish to be outside a lot which she will signal by sitting by the door unless you live in the middle of nowhere and she knows there are no male dogs around to let them know of her fertile window. If you don’t want to get your girl pregnant, during this stage you are best to avoid meeting male dogs. You need to keep your dog on a lead. Some dogs can’t even be let out in the garden on their own as they might make a run for it! Diestrus stageThis stage marks the end of the fertile window and lasts around 60-90 days. During this stage, the vulva slowly goes back to its normal size and your female dog will no longer be interested in flirting. Anestrus stageThis is the final stage which is basically lasts form the end of one period until the beginning of the other. It can lasts around 100—150 days but again it can be different for all dogs. If you are a more visual person, check out the infographics on the different stages. Should I get some dog heatpads? Heatpads are available to buy these days and these can be quite useful if your dog happens to be a heavy-bleeder. If you want to use them, you need to get your dog used to it prior to her period. Try to put it on her for 5 mins at a time. However, it’s not an essential item as most dogs will clean themselves very meticulously. Tips for the dog heat period No off-lead walking – even if your dog is very well trained and obedient, you should never let your dog off the lead when in heat. It is their natural instinct to mate and they will try as hard as they can! Good balance of exercise and rest – if your dog sleeps more whilst in heat, don’t exhaust her walking too much. Observe your dog and just go with the flow. Peppermint oil on the tip of the tail – when out and about if you want to keep male dogs away, you could put some peppermint or eucalyptus oil at the very tip of your female dog’s tail Should your dog start mating with another dog by accident, don’t try to separate them! You can easily harm both dogs. Should an undesired mating/pregnancy happen, consult your vet immediately as there are abortion shots available but they are not without any risks. Of course, another option to keep your dog safe from unwanted pregnancies is to have her spayed but it is not recommended before the first season as they go through some major hormonal changes. However, if you are planning to have some puppies, there are a host of things you need to be aware of, starting with the fact that dog gestation period lasts on average 3 months. There are many more things to consider, which will be the subject of a separate article.
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Teething Puppy Tips
There are few joys greater than bringing home a new puppy. That tiny wagging tail and those big floppy ears are enough to make your heart melt. It’s a time of great discovery, growth and bonding within your family. When taking care of a growing puppy, teething can be one of the most sensitive and challenging times for both the owners and the puppy. Their newly arriving teeth are not only painful to them but can also be painful to much of your furniture, clothing and other household items as well as the pain in their gums drives them to gnaw on everything they can get their paws on to try and get some relief. Puppy teething stages Many of you asks us when puppy teething starts and stops, so let's look at the different stages. The teething process lasts approximately 3 months. Like humans, puppies are born without any teeth before getting 28 temporary teeth, referred to as milk teeth, which are then replaced by 42 adult teeth. 2-4 weeks: around 2 weeks of age, puppies gain their very first teeth 5-6 weeks: around this time, puppies get all their 28 puppy teeth and start eating soft food. Should you have such a young puppy (breeders mainly) then you could give cold fruit and vegetables or puppy-specific food at this stage. 6-12 weeks: your puppy's gum might start to feel a bit sore and appear swollen in preparation for the teething phase. Due to their young age, it's important not to give them anything too harsh that could damage their gum or forming teeth 12-24 weeks: Generally, their puppy teeth start getting pushed out and replaced by their permanent ones. 6 months+: By this time, all of your puppy’s temporary teeth should have been replaced. Your puppy should have a total of 42 teeth How to survive puppy teething The teething process is very uncomfortable for a puppy. It’s important to provide something your pup can chew on to soothe sore gums and help make this process a little more comfortable. By doing so, you’ll be preventing the puppy from finding something on his own to chew, be it your shoes, your couch, or your children’s toys. It’s a good idea to get a variety of toys in to provide for all phases, so something soft like plush toys that they can just gnaw on. Soft toys are especially great for the youngest pups and if you get one that makes some noise, be it a squaeker or crinkley sound, the joy will be even more. Rubbery toys are also good to have in the toy basket, be it a JELLY Bone or a Teether Bone. You might also want to include a tug-of-war toy, like Beco Hemp ball or Ball on rope toy. Tug-of-war can be good for both teething and training, which is critical for your puppy’s development. Needless to say edible chews are definitely good to have on hand, as not only do they relieve the teething pain but they are also delicious and healthy as long as you get your paws on natural treats and chews. We have a wide range of products to offer: Puppy Chomper variety box – ideal when you need a variety of chews as it will give you many to try and you can be safe in the knowledge that everything included inside it, is suitable for new puppies (suitable from 8 weeks+) Rabbit ears – their semi-durable texture is loved by ALL dogs. They are hypoallergenic and great natural de-wormers (suitable from 8 weeks+) Beef Lips - Beef lips are especially firm so they hold out longer against hearty chewers. They are so tasty that even the real fussy dogs go mad for these (suitable from 12 weeks+) Buffalo Skin - long lasting and low-odour chew, full of natural protein, with no preservatives (suitable from 12 weeks+) Bulls Pizzle – long-lasting, excellent dental chews which are loved by even the fussiest dogs (suitable from 12 weeks+) Multiple Delights bags (Long-lasting, Low-fat, All ears, etc.) Yak chews – these long-lasting chews are made from compressed and hardened yak milk with a tiny amount of salt and lime juice Buffalo horn – Long-lasting chews which can be used as natural KONGs. Ours have an open end at both end preventing potential suffocation and keeping it more hygienic (suitable from 12 weeks+) Antlers and Split antlers - Antlers make fantastic dog chews because they are totally natural, long lasting, provide good minerals and are odourless to humans (suitable from 8weeks+) No-hide chews - The long-lasting, heavenly & healthy alternative to rawhide; available in 4 flavours (beef, chicken, salmon and peanut butter) (suitable from 16 weeks+) Please always ensure that you choose age-appropriate chews and that you supervise and provide fresh water. It’s just a phase Above all, don’t forget that it is just a short phase and chewing and mouthing are natural behaviours during this period. Not only is your pup trying to soothe his teething pain, he’s also trying to develop a relationship with his environment. The best tactic to protect your hands, furniture and clothing (which puppies are notorious for chewing) is to make sure those items are located off the ground and out of reach while providing easy access to his chew toys instead. Teething can be really uncomfortable, but it’s also a crucial time for your puppy’s social development. Use teething as an opportunity to soothe the pain, bond with your new family member, and train and play with him so he knows the difference between appropriate chew items and absolute no-nos, like your leather shoes. At the end of the day, the greatest gift you can give your new pup is love, attention and a healthy dose of patience. Let dental care begin Once you’ve passed the teething phase, it’s very important to make sure your dog maintains healthy teeth and gums. Tooth decay and gum disease is a very real concern for dogs as they grow older, and good habits early on can do wonders for them later in life. Check out our dental care tips to establish good habits. Always remember If you feel like you’re having some difficulty reading your dog and providing the best solution, don’t panic. Every dog is different. Have patience and keep trying. With lots of love and attention, you’ll help make this transition as smooth and painless as possible for both you and your newest family member.
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How to Stop a Puppy Biting
Biting and chewing is common in puppies up to one year of age. Much biting and chewing is related to teething in puppies. However, you need to start establishing boundaries on what is acceptable and what is not from the first day you bring your dog home. While you may think your little puppy is adorable when it growls and bites, you will no longer think it is cute when it turns into a 50kg grown up dog biting. And you don’t want your dog’s biting and nipping to send someone to the hospital for stitches. When your puppy comes home with you and is living in a human family, they need to be taught that games with humans don’t include teeth! You don't want puppy biting to be a continued behaviour into adulthood but you do want to teach them appropriate ways for you to play and have fun together: Don’t play rough games with your puppy or push them around with your hands, this is just encouraging them to use their teeth to grab at you. All interactions with your hands should be gentle and soothing; stroking, ear rubs, back-scratching etc. Your puppy should learn that your hands are good things and not tug toys or dog chews. For gentle games of tug, use toys and not your hands. Your puppy needs to chew (and when they are teething, this is ever more important) but you should be encouraging them that toys are for chewing, hands aren’t. Toys such as the Jelly Bone or Jelly Worm treat dispenser toys are ideal. Give your puppy safe toys to chew on, stuffed Puppy Kongs are great and you can even make your own toys using treats inside old cardboard toilet rolls that will let them bite and chew safely. The natural KONG alternatives, such as Buffalo Horn or calf hooves are also good. What should you do if the puppy bites you? When you bring a puppy into your home, it's your job to create boundaries and be consistent with applying the rules for unwanted behaviours, including when it comes to teeth on skin. Don’t overreact or shout at him as that will just make your puppy scared of you. If it was just a one-off accident, ignore it and carry on playing – we all make mistakes. If it happens again, you should ignore the behaviour and remove yourself from the situation without any drama (do not create a naughty puppy corner; just leave the room). Remove yourself for 20 seconds or so. By leaving the interaction, you tell your puppy that play is over, fun is over, attention is over. Be as non-dramatic as possible. If the behaviour is hard for you to ignore, go behind a door or baby gate where your puppy does not have access to continue nipping at you. When you return, introduce a toy into the game so that your puppy has something else to bite. If your puppy tries to nip at you again, remove yourself again, this time for a minute When you return, carry on as nothing has happened before. Life is too short to hold grudges! Every time the puppy bites you, remove yourself with increasing amount of time if the biting continues whenever you return. You should see a major decrease in the intensity of biting as well as the amount of biting attempts within a few days. Don’t forget to give your pup attention and praise when they are behaving nicely! The key is praising him for good behaviour and ignoring unwanted behaviour. All family members and guests MUST be consistent in order for this to work! Why Does This Work? A behaviour that doesn't get reinforced will stop, it’s as simple as that. Your pup will learn that we don't react to biting with play, attention, or even a negative reaction. All of these things can be fun for a puppy. He/She will also learn to self-entertain. Once they realise the nipping isn't working, they will eventually find something else to do and hopefully find a toy to play with. Puppies love the interactions with humans and your puppy will seek out appropriate ways to get your attention, like offering a "sit" or laying at your feet. A few other suggestions to help you stop a puppy biting: It's also good to create a safe place for your puppy, be it a dog crate or baby-gated area of a room. This gives you a break from your puppy, and is a calm place for your puppy to settle down if he gets too wound up. Make sure your puppy has plenty of rubbery teething toys (Beco bone), age-appropriate natural chews (Puppy Chomper Box) and is getting daily exercise, and is not excessively crated. If his needs are not being met, the nipping will take longer to extinguish. Remember that puppies up to the age of 6 months, need to have three meals a day as this helps them have sufficient energy for the day (a tired puppy is more likely to bite/nip) Similar to little kids, puppies can find even negative attention fun! Things we may think are punishing, like pushing your puppy away, yelling at him, etc, can be considered fun, play-like behaviours for your puppy and can encourage biting. As such when you apply the above rules, be as quiet and calm as you can. When should you be concerned about biting in puppies? You should speak to a dog trainer/behavioural therapist if your puppy: Is growling, snapping, or biting when a person comes near a resource (food, toys, etc) Stiffens and stares at the person before biting. Is consistently biting and breaking skin. Barks, growls, or nips (not in play) at new people entering the home. Snaps or growls at children, who are the most common victims of bites. Click here if you want to know more about how to teach your children to behave around dogs. Above all, don’t forget that in the vast majority of cases, puppy biting and mouthing is EXTREMELY normal, for several reasons: Puppies explore the world with their mouths. They go through an uncomfortable teething process that lasts for 2-3 months, most commonly between the age of 4-6 months. They play hard with their siblings, often using their teeth to (successfully) instigate play and attention. Some herding breed dogs are predisposed to nip, herd, and chase small, fast-moving things. On the other hand, Retrievers are predisposed to picking up and holding anything and everything within reach, including your hands and arms. A word on what to avoid: Above all else, avoid physical punishment when it comes to puppy biting. Do not squeeze g your puppy's mouth shut, pin them on their backs, or muzzle them to stop the biting. You do not need to physically punish him to curb this behaviour as the root cause is not dominance, but just simple puppyhood. Summary Puppy biting is totally normal but you have to be able to react in a manner that teaches your puppy what is acceptable behaviour. In order to turn your puppy into a healthy, well-rounded adult dog, you need to meet all his basic needs, such as regular exercise, 3 meals a day, plenty of sleep, nutritious food, good-quality, age-appropriate toys and natural, puppy-friendly chews to help relieve teething pain. Chewing is an essential activity for puppies as it: reduces teething pain relieves boredom and anxiety and promotes dental health by ensuring jaws and teeth remain strong and healthy, free of tartar Click here to discover our 100% natural chews and treats to help your teething puppy. We also have some lovely toys to entertain young pups.
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Supplements for Dogs
Supplements for Dogs Do dogs need dietary vitamins and supplements? Many people take dietary supplements or vitamins and increasingly they’re likely to give them to their pets, too. The most common ones are multivitamins, supplements for joint support or arthritis, fish oil or cod liver oil for dogs to reduce shedding and improve a coat’s shine. Owners also may give probiotics to dogs to alleviate digestive problems or antioxidants to counteract the effects of ageing. With a growing number overweight dogs (putting unnecessary pressure on all organs and joints) and owners reaching for assumed ’miracle-pills’, it is not surprising that the global pet supplements market reached $674.6 million in 2020 and is forecast to reach over $1 billion by 2027. Closer to home, Lintbells Limited (owner of YuMove, a well-known pet supplements firm) had annual sales of £20 million in 2019 representing a 34% growth on prior year!!! But do dogs need those vitamins and supplements? And are they even safe? Experts say some work, others don’t, and some aren’t necessary and may even be harmful to dogs. 1. Does my dog need vitamins? Most dogs receive a complete and balanced diet - including necessary vitamins and minerals - from kibble but bear in mind that not all complete, dry dog food are equal. Dogs fed a homemade diet may need supplements but best to check with a nutritionist for help in determining what, if anything, is needed. 2. Is there any danger in giving my dog vitamins? Possibly. If an animal already eats a balanced diet and receives excess portions of some vitamins and minerals, they could be harmful. Put it simply; carrots are healthy, but if you eat 6 kgs of it daily, you are taking in too much vitamin A, beta-carotene and others nutrients which will cause certain diseases! It’s the same for dogs: too much calcium, for instance, can cause skeletal problems, especially in large-breed puppies; too much vitamin A can harm blood vessels and cause dehydration and joint pain; Excess vitamin D can prompt a dog to stop eating, harm bones, and cause muscles atrophy (the muscle dies off due to imbalance between vitamin D and calcium), just to mention a few. 3. Should I check with my vet before supplementing? Not a bad idea. Symptoms that look like arthritis, such as a dog with a weak rear end, could instead be a neurological problem. A poor coat could indicate skin, metabolic or hormonal problems. Ingredients in some supplements, such as herbals, may interact with other medicine an animal is taking. Your vet can also assess whether your pet needs a supplement at all. If they’re eating a complete and balanced diet and they’re healthy and have no problems, they don’t actually need supplementation. However, if you really want to boost the nutrients in your dog’s diet, reach for fruits and vegetables. They are the easiest for the body to absorb and digest and they are the most natural sources of an array of vitamins and minerals. Most supplements are not safe to use over a long period of time, the only exception to that is probably probiotics. However, why would you give your dog a probiotics pill when you can just put plain, unflavoured kefir or yoghurt on their food, which are the best probiotics. 4. Do dog supplements work? It depends on what the supplement is used for and how it is manufactured. Clinical trials are rare so it’s hard to find quality evidence for the efficacy, much less the need for these products. Glucosamine-chondroitin supplements, commonly given to dogs with osteoarthritis, have shown mixed results in testing in humans and animals. Antioxidants such as vitamins C and E reduce inflammation and help aging dogs with memory problems, however, you have to bear in mind that nutritional supplements haven’t been tested for long-term safety in dogs and as such nobody really knows the long-term consequences of putting any dogs on them, not to mention young puppies. 5. How should I choose a supplement? Here are some tips: Look for a brand that specialises in one area. Read labels. Know the name of the ingredient you’re looking for, so you won’t be deceived by sound-alikes. Look for a contact number for the company on the label. Call and ask who formulated the product, where they sourced the ingredients from, what expertise they have, and how long the manufacturer has been in business. For instance fish oil can come from contaminated fish which means you are actually giving harmful stuff to your dog such as mercury! Be wary of claims that sound too good to be true, such as promises to alleviate diseases like parvovirus, cancer and hip dysplasia. Look for certification from an organisation that has independently verified a supplement’s contents. Be cautious about giving human supplements to dogs. Some products, such as garlic, can be dangerous for dogs. Know the seller. 6. What about supplements in dog food? Check the label to see how much of an ingredient is actually in the food but they tend to be well below the therapeutic dose and as such are less of a worry. A prescription dog food, on the other hand, may contain therapeutic levels of the supplement. Other dog foods might contain botanicals, such as cranberry, to ward off urinary tract infections or DHA to boost cognitive development in puppies. Summary Similar to humans, dogs need a variety of nutrients each day to stay healthy, including calcium and vitamin D to protect the bones, folic acid to produce and maintain new cells, and vitamin A to preserve a healthy immune system and vision. Yet the source of these nutrients is important and it is best to try to get these vitamins and minerals and nutrients from food as opposed to supplements (true for both humans and dogs). If you feed your dog a premium-quality, complete, balanced diet, you shouldn't need to supplements your pet's diet at all. But don't forget that there is a big difference between a £10 and £50 bag of kibble! Fruits, vegetables, fish, and other healthy foods contain nutrients and other substances not found in a pill, which work together to keep both us and our dogs healthy. We can't get the same synergistic effect from a supplement. Taking certain vitamins or minerals in higher-than-recommended doses may even interfere with nutrient absorption or cause side effects. If you want to boost your dog’s bowl, add some healthy veg and fruit to it or reach for a can of sardines. Should you need more advice on which vegetables are best, click on the link Vegetables for Dogs - Chomp and Chew
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The Benefits & Risks of the Raw Diet
Raw diet – the benefits & risks Raw food diet has become extremely popular in the last few years and there are good reasons for it. However, it is not without its risks. This article will assess both the risks and benefits of it to help you make wiser choices for you pooch! RISKS of a raw food diet The risks of feeding your dog a raw food diet centre around the possible bacteria and other pathogens found in raw food, which also present a risk to us humans. Let’s take a look at these. Salmonella The most common pathogen found in raw food is Salmonella, a type of bacteria that can cause gastrointestinal illness. It is not specific to raw food for your dog as it is commonly found in eggs, meat intended for human consumption. Dogs have shorter gastorintestinal tract, speeding up the food’s transit time which also means that any pathogen found in their stomach will cause a less significant threat to them. As such, the risk is actually to the human, especially to frail people like young infants, the elderly, and immune-compromised people (e.g. those with immune system diseases such as Lupus, or those on immune-suppressing drugs like steroids or chemotherapy). Salmonella rarely poses any real threat to healthy animals. In fact, dogs can actually be carriers simply from environmental exposure (rest assured, the vast majority of human cases are unrelated to dogs!). If you feed your dog raw food, always ensure good hygiene and to be on the safe side it is prudent to avoid feeding pets non-organic raw ground beef, due to severe contamination problems in the meat packing industry. Listeria Listeria is another common environmental bacterium. The vast majority of Listeria cases in people come from processed foods, like cheese, raw vegetables and cold cuts. Healthy people (and pets) are resistant and don’t usually become ill from this bug. Safe handling Common sense says that handling raw meat diets for pets is no different from buying raw meat at the grocery store to make hamburgers for your family. By always following good hygiene and safe handling of all raw animal products, you’ll virtually eliminate the risk of illness for your pet and your family. BENEFITS of raw food diet Raw meat diets are credited with restoring the health of dogs. Advocates of the diet report big improvements in skin, coat, energy, and overall wellbeing. Raw diets have helped many pets recover from a wide variety of health problems, including allergies, asthma, urinary tract problems, digestive issues, dental disease, immune disorders, degenerative diseases, and epilepsy. Is it suitable for all pets? The simple answer is NO. Just like there are many diets available to humans (omnivore, vegetarian, vegan, Keto, Paleo, Low-fat, etc.) it doesn’t mean that one diet suit all humans! Similarly, raw diets aren’t for every pet. Animals with inflammatory conditions of the gut, and those taking immune-suppressing drugs, should not be fed raw meat until their systems have time to heal. Additionally, not all dogs like raw diet. There are many pet-owners who put their dogs on raw diet and whilst the dog has seemed to thrive on it initially, after a while some dogs can lose interest and/or appetite and have to be put on a different diet. Like us, every dog is unique and what suits one dog, doesn’t necessarily suit all! Take-away Remember that there are no two dogs alike and therefore there is no single diet or food brand that suit every dog! Whilst many people talk about the benefits of a raw diet there can be multitude reasons why you don’t want to follow the trend and/or your dog doesn’t wish to be on a raw food diet. The best you can do is to ensure that you choose a premium quality food (be it raw, wet or complete dry food), provide a bit of variety (you wouldn’t want to live on chicken only, would you?), supplement with steamed veg and some either raw or cooked meat (no seasoning etc.). You can even mix feed (dry and raw) as dogs are very adoptable. And the most important of all give your dog plenty of exercise and LOVE.
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Removing Ticks from Dogs
Removing Ticks - how to spot them, remove them and what are the dangers? The great countryside With the better weather approaching, the opportunity to go for long walks with our furry friends in the countryside is welcoming. Unfortunately, the better weather also brings with it some unwelcomed risks in the form of ticks awaiting to feed from our furry friends (as well as always happy to feed from a human too!). These unpleasant and blood-sucking creatures have the ability to spoil the end of a lovely day outdoors. Ticks are closely related to spiders and are similar to them in that they do not jump or fly. They will wait attached to a blade of grass with their front legs reaching out for an opportunity to grab onto a warm animal passing by. They are brilliant at sensing heat and of course their survival depends upon them being successful and being able to gorge themselves on a passing opportunity. Whilst such a happening can go relatively unnoticed and eventually having gorged on a good amount of blood the tick will release and drop off, it does have dangers associated with it. Indeed, it is estimated that around one third of dogs at any one time are carrying at least one tick in the UK! They also look disgusting and carry the dangers of transmitting diseases as well causing infection around the bite site. Whilst they can be hard to remove it is a job that cannot be put off. The longer a tick resides on your dog the greater the likelihood your dog could be feeling unwell either in the short term or in some cases in the long term too. The dangers of ticks There are many potential diseases that these little creatures can cause but Lyme disease is as much a major threat to dogs as it is to humans and is the one most people will think of. It is of course possible to die from Lyme Disease although I do not know any statistics on that and assume it is quite rare. I do personally know of someone who struggled for years after being infected with Lyme disease from a tick. Try to give your dog a good look and feel over after their favourite walks in the countryside as the weather warms up. Anything that feels like a sesame seed up to a pea size (if the tick is engorged with blood) should be seriously looked at to check it isn’t one of these nasty creatures feeding off your dog. On the occasions where I have not spotted a tick for a while I have become suspicious there might be one as the dog would just seem to be quiet and not herself. From this I do assume that they really are not something to just leave and hope the best about. How to remove ticks? (the hard part) Removal of ticks gets easier with practice, but I have to admit the first one I came across was on my Golden Retriever, Roxy RIP, and resulted in a visit to the vet that evening. In trying to do my best with what I had I broke the little creature, leaving the head and what I describe as claws in my gorgeous Roxy. Removing a Tick without a decent removal tool for the task is not something I would recommend attempting. It is so worthwhile having a tick removal tool or two at hand as breaking the tick and then incurring a vet bill to get the rest of the ticks head out is not ideal. Also, in my experience dogs with long hair like Golden Retrievers are more at risk to a tick making the transfer successfully onto them and staying hidden until such time as they reach the skin and under the cover of all that long hair make their invasion into the skin. My Beagle (lovely Luke) with much shorter hair never seemed to collect the same amount of Ticks. Some places are worse than others; for instance, on our holidays in France (those were the days) it took Roxy no time at all to collect 10-20 ticks!!! In comparison the UK never seemed to present such a big issue although we live in Yorkshire and I suspect the problem may generally be worse in the South. There are many Tick removal tools to choose from. The one I personally find is the easiest and with always a good outcome is the lasso type removal tools. You do not have to go too near the tick and the chances of any blood in the tick going back into your dog are minimised as a result. Take a look at https://youtu.be/Q4-1xYl97gg Although this is an old video it might be worth watching. It shows the technique for using a lasso tool for removing a tick. Obviously, things will not go quite as smoothly as your furry friend will be wondering what is going on – is it playtime they might be wondering. It is important to try to keep your dog as calm as possible for the few seconds of the “extraction”. Using a lickmat could be beneficial in keeping your pup focused on something else. I do not feel the dogs seem to experience pain when the extraction takes place although it is hard to think they do not at least know about it! The video also shows a half turn technique being used in the removal process to encourage the tick to release its bite, but many people say that no amount of twisting should be done. I have always found the slight twist to be successful but maybe I have just been lucky. Some flea treatments will also discourage or kill ticks so it is worthwhile investigating in these if your dog is keen to go running in long grassy fields frequently (and for some dogs that is what life is all about!). This may all sound very frightening to new dog owners, but it is almost certain at some stage your dog will get a tick and it is better to be aware of them and the way to remove them than risk illness, suffering and vet bills.
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Garden Plants Poisonous to Dogs
The hidden garden dangers for dogs Gardens are the perfect place for dogs to exercise and have fun but even those that are fenced in can be potentially dangerous if common sense isn’t applied. With the better weather on us, we are all keen to spend more time in the garden and get on with our gardening tasks and our puppies are often very keen to help us. Dogs, especially puppies, are more at risk as they are very curious and a common way for them to learn is to eat what they find. Clippings and prunings have a higher risk as they are tastier and often carry the owners’ scent. Therefore, the garden can be full of potentially dangerous plants and creatures for dogs. The most common ones are listed below. Spring bulbs Our pretty and much-loved spring bulbs, like tulips and daffodils can be some of the most dangerous ones for our dogs. Big, greedy dogs are the worst offenders as they either think bulbs are for eating or playing a doggy hide-and-seek (human hides it and they dig it up to eat it). Daffodils: effects from poisoning can include vomiting, stomach upset and salivation, but can escalate to dogs appearing sleepy, wobbly on their legs, or collapsing. In more serious cases fits and changes to heart rate, body temperature and blood pressure. Dogs can also become unwell if the flowers are eaten, or if they drink water from a vase containing daffodils Tulips: the toxins found in this plant cause irritation to the mouth and gastrointestinal tract and usually only result in drooling, vomiting and diarrhoea. Serious cases are rare, but effects could include heart problems and breathing difficulties Spring crocus: these flower in spring and are said to be of low toxicity and may only cause a mild stomach upset if eaten. These bulbs are not to be confused with autumn crocus, which flower in autumn and can cause severe stomach upset, kidney and liver problems and bone marrow depression Shade-loving plants Plants that love dampness and shade, such as Lily of Valley, can be fatal. All parts of Lily of Valley is poisonous and whilst it’s not usually planted by humans, it can just appear in the garden. If you find it in your garden, best to remove it. Lilies Other poisonous plants to dogs include some lilies, such as tiger lilies, Easter lilies, which can kill with the bite of a petal as they contain toxic substances. Compost Compost is usually full of mouldy food and garden waste. Some of this can produce dangerous mycotoxins which are highly dangerous to dogs. Mycotoxicosis, which is poisoning by-products contaminated by fungi, can be fatal. Dog owners should always keep compost out of reach and seek urgent veterinary advice if they suspect their dog has raided the compost bin. Fertilisers Fertilisers come in granular, solid and liquid form. While most aren’t hazardous, some can cause sickness and diarrhoea if swallowed or irritate your dog’s skin if brushed against. Products with additives such as insecticides are often the most dangerous. Weed killer Many weed killers contain glyphosate which can be dangerous if swallowed, licked or brushed against. Dogs who consume a significant enough amount may suffer breathing problems, heart rate issues and convulsions. If you plan to use weed killer, make sure your dog is safe inside to avoid any problems. Slug and snail pellets Metaldehyde-based slug and snail pellets are among the most dangerous and common poisonings vets see. Ingestion can cause severe poisoning and signs often occur within an hour. Insecticides and pesticides Insecticides and pesticides are typically used to get rid of so-called garden pests. But many contain dangerous chemicals such as metaldehyde or disulfoton, which are both very toxic to dogs. Read the instructions carefully and don’t use if there’s a potential risk. Toads Toads produce a venom through their skin when they’re under attack and toad venom poisoning can be fatal if left untreated. The toxins can cause dogs to foam at the mouth, vomit and show signs of distress such as pawing at the mouth and eyes. What to do if your pet has been poisoned? If you suspect your dog has eaten any of these, call your vet straight away. Try to take a sample of the dangerous item or substance, or a label containing its ingredients, to the vet. Click on the link for the full list of dangerous garden plants. factsheetpoisonoussubstances09.pdf (dogstrust.org. Whilst the above may sound very scary, let's not forget that dogs are clever creatures, often more clever than we give them credit for. So just go and enjoy that gorgeous garden of yours, but if your dog is showing too much interest in some plants, check out that he is not eating something he shouldn't. :-) Check out our wide range of 100% natural, safe and healthy chews which are safer option for your dog to chomp on. There are many more dangerous to dogs in your garden than just plants, please read our Ultimate Guide for First Time Dog Owners to address all other dangers both in your garden and inside your home.
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How to Choose Healthy Dog Treats
Healthy dog treats - How to choose wisely? We’ve already covered the most important aspects of how to choose a good-quality dog food and read dog food labels so now it’s time to address treats. After all, we don’t want to undo all the good you’ve done in selecting a premium-quality dog food by supplementing it with canine junk food! Where to start? Anyone who’s been to a large supermarket or pet store will realise that there are an overwhelming number of options available for dog-owners making it difficult to choose a nutritionally balanced, healthy treat. The obvious place to start with is the ingredient list. Treats which are meat-based, minimally processed and low-in calories are the best. Ideally you want to avoid treats with added sugar, fillers, additives, artificial colours, flavours and preservatives. Some treats will claim to be ‘natural’ but this is not a guarantee for it to be healthy. It’s a bit like saying crisps are natural but we know that they are not actually healthy and equally they are so processed that it’s not true to say that they are natural! Natural should mean that what you have in front of you is not too far removed from the original ingredient! Types of healthy dog treats Air-dried treats Air-dried treats and chews are one of the healthiest and most natural treats. These treats are either animal parts (primal range) cut-up and air-dried or fruit and vegetables preserved in the same way. Our range includes the ever-so-popular Chomper boxes, Delights bags and the likes of Buffalo horn, and Antler chews Minimally processed treats & chews Treats like Yak bars, and No-hide chews would fall into this category as there is some processing involved but it is minimal. Jerky treats can also be in this category, however, some of them can be quite unhealthy so always check the label! Always choose treats made with a limited number of natural, minimally processed, and reliably sourced ingredients. There's no reason for fillers or an excess of chemical preservatives with this style of treat. Functional treats These treats can be quite beneficial if your pooch is suffering from certain conditions such as arthritis or have some specific needs. They are designed to provide specific health benefits. Popular examples include dental chews as well as treats that contain added ingredients to support joint health, digestion or shiny coat or treats that help to calm your dog. Freeze-dried treats Freeze-dried treats with healthy, raw ingredients are a fantastic option as they lock in natural flavours and valuable nutritional components that may be lost in other manufacturing processes. Biscuits One of the most popular and classic pet treats are biscuits or crunchy treats. They come in a variety of flavours, shapes, and sizes which makes them appropriate and appealing to a wide array of pets, regardless of size or life stage. They are also convenient, easy to store, and perfect for use as training rewards. When choosing the right kind, you want to make sure it's a treat that's an appropriate size for your pet. When training your puppy, choose small ones such as our Training Treats. (For help on how to train your puppy the basic commands, please read the last chapter of our Ultimate Guide for First Time Dog Owners.) And perhaps out of all the treats, it is most important here to check the ingredient list. Make sure the product contains high-quality, human-grade ingredients with no added chemicals or fillers. Since the manufacturing of these treats changes their shape and appearance, it's easy to hide those undesirable ingredients. If the label has far too may unpronounceable names or even if it’s just too long, put it back on the shelf. As always, when unsure, pass and grab something else you can have confidence in. Just remember that treats are great for dogs as they: can promote good oral health beat boredom and unwanted behaviour help with reinforcing positive behaviour can supplement a dog’s diet help your dog to feel calm & relaxed However, not all treats are equal so choose wisely! Treats should be treats and supplement the diet instead of replacing it so be careful not to overdo it.
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Rawhide in the Spotlight
For decades, every dog owner gave rawhide chews to their dogs to entertain them as well as to maintain oral health. Then rawhide started to get bad reputation and people turned to healthier choices, albeit there are still millions of dog owners feeding their pooches rawhides without knowing the risks or why it could be so bad for them. Let’s look at all that there is to know about rawhide chews (Source: Planet Paws) What is Rawhide? Rawhide is the skin of animals such as cattle or pork that is removed, dried and prepared for your dog to eat. Rawhides come in different shapes, sizes and sometimes has added flavour. It is in essence, the by-product of the leather industry and something that dogs in the wild would have never eaten! How is it produced? The processing involves the following simplified steps: STEP 1: Preserve (initial) Normally, cattle hides are shipped to tanneries for processing. The hides are treated with a chemical bath to help preserve the product and delay the rate of decaying whilst in transport. At the tannery further chemicals are used (some pretty toxic ones too) to strip the hair and fat that maybe attached to the hides themselves. Then some more chemicals are needed to help these hides to puff up, making it easier to split into layers. The outer layer of the hide is used for goods like car seats, clothing, shoes, purses, etc., whilst the inner layer is used to make the rawhide. STEP 2: Cleanse The rawhides are now ready for further chemical-induced baths (mainly bleach and some even stronger chemicals) to achieve the whiteness and remove any odours. STEP 3: Prettify Now it’s time to make these whitened sheets of leathery by-products look delicious! They are bathed in dyes, some of which can be coated with titanium oxide. Artificial flavours are also added as after all they want to make it tasty for the pooches. Some get smoked as well so that they smell good even to humans! STEP 4: Preserve (final) Further chemicals are used for the final processing stage, which make these chews last forever. When rawhide chews were tested, mercury, lead, arsenic and other pretty dangerous chemicals were detected! Now, would you like to consume something containing any of these? NO! Neither would your dog as most of these chemicals are carcinogenic. The risks and dubious products used are even worse if these products were manufactured outside the EU. In some imported items, even dogskin was found! What else is bad about rawhide chews? Well, apart from the multitude of chemicals used in the process, there is one more negative about rawhides. That’s the fact that once a dog has turned the rawhide into a blub of dubious material and managed to swallow it, they can get stock in the oesophagus or any parts of the stomach causing blockages which can either lead to emergency surgery or even death. What to use instead? Opt for natural chews instead. We stock many of these and no matter what your dog’s habits or likes are, we offer something to cater for them. Primal range treats (including the Chomper boxes) are the most natural ones as they are just animal parts cut up, air-dried and packed with love. Antlers and are also great options and whilst they are a bit pricier they last a very long time! Yak bars are another popular option and again last a while. No-hide chews are absolutely loved by all dogs and they are made from only 7 natural, ingredients (brown rice flour, organic eggs, olive oil, banana, pineapple, agar-agar and 1 source of sustainable protein).
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Why Do Dogs Eat Poop?
Whilst the idea of eating poop makes us humans feel totally disgusted, it can be a favourite and fairly common activity amongst our canine friends. They aren’t very picky either, they will happily wolf down horse manure, fox poop, cat poo, cow pats or simply other dogs’ faeces. WHY? The reasons can be as varied as a colour palette but they can be grouped into 2 main categories: Behavioural Puppy phase Being curious is part of being a puppy and your dog might just eat poop to satisfy its curiosity. The good news is that they just grow out of this. Attention seeking Like kids, dogs can turn to naughty things just to get your attention. And of course, there is fun in poop hunting! Scavengers Dogs are natural scavengers and to them stool smells amazing. If something smells amazing, well it must taste amazing too! Boredom if your dog is at home all day alone with access to the garden, he might just eat poop out of boredom. Stress & Puppy farms Eating stool can be a way of dealing with stress. It was also observed that dogs who came from puppy farms, and therefore were open to more stress, are more likely to get into the habit of eating stool. Punishment Punishment for accidents in the house might make your dog think that poop is a bad thing and therefore any evidence should be destroyed. Medical/Nutrition Deficiency Before domestication, wild dogs would have eaten whole prey including the digestive tract … which naturally provides the appropriate amount of digestive enzymes needed. Unfortunately many dogs today are fed highly processed diets. Digestive enzymes help ensure your dog is able to properly absorb his nutrition. If he doesn’t have the enzymes needed … food will pass through undigested leaving your dog deficient in certain vitamins and minerals. Certain diseases Illnesses such as diabetes or thyroid issues can increase your dog’s appetite and so can steroids and if they don't find anything else, well poop will do! Parasites If your dog is infested with parasites, then he will have to compete for nutrition with them. The longer the parasites are allowed to thrive, the worse your dog’s health will get. Malabsorption The old saying ‘You are what you eat’ is not strictly true. It’s more ‘You are what you eat and what you absorb’. You might feed your pooch the best diet but if he has any underlying illnesses causing malabsorption then his body will be lacking in certain nutrients. Underfeeding Stool can look very appetising to a hungry dog so make sure you provide enough food to your dog! Whilst there can be many reasons, nutrition is most likely the reason your dog is eating their poop, specifically inadequate nutrition or nutrient absorption. If your dog is seeking out alternate sources of nutrition, there might be some nutrient missing from their diet. Take a look at your dog’s food: is it full of fillers and grains? Sometimes switching to a healthier dog food diet is the best way to fix a stool eating problem. If your dog is eating nutritious food, they may not be absorbing all of the nutrients properly. In this case, you might want to speak to your vet and request a stool test for possible parasites. How do we stop K9s eating poop? Positive re-enforcement Since behaviour can be such a strong component of coprophagia (the official name for eating poop), changing that behaviour can take a long time to break this bad habit. If you notice your dog eating stool outside, take them out on a lead. This will allow you more control over where your dog goes so you can steer around existing stool and help navigate away from new stool. Positive reinforcement and natural dog treats are helpful for distracting your dog and will prove to be more enticing than poop. Once your dog shows interest in stool, quickly offer a treat to pull their attention away and then speak encouragingly while giving them the treat. Just make sure you use healthy, natural dog treats, since diet is also a component of stool eating. Feed a natural, healthy diet Feeding a natural diet will help with better digestion and assimilation. As with most specific health conditions in your pet, this can do wonders. Transition your dog according to the instructions and consider rotating proteins to prevent allergies. Adding a natural probiotics, such as kefir or plain yoghurt will support proper nutrition absorption and assimilation. You could simply add some natural yoghurt, greek yoghurt or kefir on top of their kibbles or mix it with some chopped boiled carrots and peas, spread it on a lickpad and serve it to your dog. If you want to make it longer lasting, you could stick it in the freezer for an hour or so before letting your dog enjoy it. Always clean up Finally, proper clean-up can be essential to curb your dog’s stool eating habit, especially in the winter time. Always make sure you carry dog waste bags with you and clean up after your dog before they have the opportunity to examine it. If there’s nothing to eat, they can’t eat it. No punishment Don’t make a big deal of any accidents in the house whilst training your pup. Even if your puppy starts eating others’ poops, try not to make too much fuss about it. It’s better to distract them and be one step ahead of them. If your dog is off the lead, closely watch his body language and try to spot poops before he does and immediately call your dog and offer a treat. Distract, distract! You might of course want to keep your dog on the lead initially so that he has no chance to eat poop!
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Dental Care for Dogs
Fact: 80% of dogs have some form of dental disease by the time they are 3! How would you feel if you didn’t brush your teeth for a week? Maybe a month? Maybe never? You’d have a constant unpleasant taste in your mouth, your tongue would feel hairy and your mates would start talking to you through closed windows. Well, it is exactly the same for our pooches. If you never brush their teeth, the bacteria will build up in their mouths causing havoc over time and potentially leading to serious health problems, not to mention that when they get close to you, your stomach will churn from their breath! Dental hygiene for dogs is just as important as for human. Prevention is better, easier and cheaper! It’s more fun for your dog and it will save you £100s if not £1,000s in vet bills! You need to take steps from a young age to ensure healthy teeth and lack of diseases for a long time! Several researches also emphasise the importance of canine dental care; one of them even detail a step-by-step guide (AAHA Dental Care Guidelines for Dogs and Cats). BUT – Wolves don’t brush their teeth?!! That is true but our dogs are mostly fed a diet that is easy to chew whilst wolves and wild dogs eat entire carcasses, chewing up the bones, the tendons and ligaments, which basically brush and floss their teeth for them. Whilst raw fed dogs tend to have healthier teeth, it is still advisable to brush your dog’s teeth regularly regardless the diet he is on. If you think a bit of bad breath won’t kill anyone, think again Gum diseases start slowly and without any obvious signs. If the teeth are never brushed, the harmful bacteria will eventually outweigh the good bacteria causing inflammation, redness and bad breath (often these are the first signs). Over time, plaque formation begins and if plaque isn’t removed, it will turn into calculus (tartar - the hard, browny yellow substance on your dog's teeth). Tartar is the perfect surface for even more plaque to stick to, speeding up the whole process. Dental disease, especially when it's severe, can be quite painful for dogs. Additionally, bacteria in the plaque can enter the bloodstream and spread to other organs such as the heart, kidneys and liver. This spread of bacteria can damage organs and make dogs quite sick. Dental disease can be painful, but most animals are extremely good at covering up the signs and will rarely stop eating. Signs to look out for: difficulty picking up food bleeding or red gums loose teeth blood in saliva, on water bowl or on chew toys strange noises when eating pawing at mouth/face dribbling OK, as a good dog-parent you want to prevent gum disease, but not sure what the best dental regime is?! We are here to help. Dental Care for Dogs - Easy-to-follow tips: Daily brushingNothing is more effective than daily brushing. It is best to start it from a young age but that’s not to say that you can’t get your elderly dog into the habit. If you have never done it before, just go slowly! First let your dog get used to the brush and/or the toothpaste. Let them sniff it and lick the toothpaste without any attempt to brush their teeth. Do this for 2-3 days and then slowly move the toothbrush or your finger into their mouths and brush a few teeth or just massage the gum. Over a couple of weeks increase the amount of teeth you brush and the time you spend on it until your pooch is totally comfortable with it. A good kit to start with is the Tropiclean one as it has all what you need. Your can use soft baby toothbrush, a doggy toothbrush or just your finger. Fingerpads are also available and some people find these much easier to use. There is no one size fits all so just see what works for you and your dog. Dental chewsNatural dental chews such as Pigs’ ear, Cows ear, Beef lips, Buffalo skin, etc are great addition to your dog’s dental regime. Not only do they taste delicious but they are also free of any nasties and will keep your woofer entertained. If you are looking for long lasting chews, you can get some Yak bars, No-hide chews or the above mentioned totally natural chews. My elderly dog (13 years) struggles with the Yak bars unless Sparky the pup has already done the hard work and he managed to pinch it (which is accompanied by some very loud complaints from Sparky). However, he has no problems with the No-hide chews so they are definitely winners in our house! Don’t forget to ensure that the dental chews are the correct size for your dog; if they are too small they can be a choking hazard. Bear in mind that many dental chews can be high in calories; reduce your dog’s normal food intake accordingly so that they don’t put on weight. Alternatively you can opt for low-calorie chews like the No-hide chews, Calf hooves or Venison/Buffalo skin, just to mention a few. Little extrasThere are products that you can add to the water or mouthwashes that help reduce dental plaque, but don’t forget daily tooth brushing is by far the best way to keep your pet’s teeth healthy. Lickimats are also great for preventing bacteria building up on the tongue and causing bad breath. Our PAW Lickpad is especially great as it comes with suction pads so you can stick it on the tiles whilst you are showering your dog! I haven’t yet met a dog who didn’t love licking doggy peanut butter off their lickipad. Remember, many pet insurance policies don't cover dental work, so it's even more important to look after your pet's teeth! I hope all the above is helpful, but if you want to know more send us an e-mail (bernadett@chompandchew.co.uk). Don't forget that dental care is just one regular routine you need to do for the health of your dog; there are many more and some essential 'kit' to get in place too. Should you know more, please read our Ultimate Guide.
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Debunking dog food labels
Debunking dog food labels Food labels can be very confusing and often manufacturers are happy for you to be confused as they can hide the not-so nice ingredients under mysterious names! In this article I will look at the most used ingredients and de-mystify them so that you can make better choices for your dog! Meat derivatives / Meat by-products The term ‘Meat derivatives’ covers all warm-blooded land animals. Usually, it means the bits of the carcass that remain once the ‘good bits’ have been removed for human consumption. As such, generally this means organ meat (now organ meat is very nutritious, so this is not so bad) as well as the rest of the carcass in its entirety (beaks, feathers, hooves, etc – less ideal). The advantage to the manufacturer is that they can change the animal source at any time to suit what they have in stock. This is not great for us, dog-owners, as you don’t actually know what you are purchasing and if your dog has any intolerances or sensitivities, products with meat derivatives in could cause undesirable health side-effects. Additionally, the manufacturers will use the cheapest ingredient available at the time of production and unfortunately cheap usually means poor quality. It’s rather interesting that in the USA meat derivatives are referred to as 4Ds by those who know what they mean, which are Dead, Dying, Disabled, Diseased. The EU has stricter rules therefore one can assume that roadkill animals for instance, would not be used under meat-derivatives. However, now that the UK is no longer in the EU, more care must be taken when purchasing dog food originating from the USA. Vegetable derivatives These are ingredients from plants and they can mean many different things, similarly to meat derivatives. It could mean the cellulose part of vegetables, which are not digestible by dogs (or humans) or it could mean beet pulp or who knows what? Beet pulp is a by-product from the processing of sugar beet which is used as fodder for horses and other livestock. Beet pulp is the fibrous material left over after the sugar is extracted from sugar beets. In other words it’s a sugar filler and as such can cause weight gain! Cereals / Grains Cereals usually mean wheat, corn and rice or other similar types of carbohydrate. Whilst cereals in a human diet can be beneficial and essential especially if the right type is chosen, they are usually not so great for dogs. Wheat, rice, and other grains can be difficult for dogs to digest. Furthermore, these grains are often treated with a number of chemicals prior to harvesting. These chemicals can transfer into the dog food formula and slowly cause issues as the years progress. Some grains are ok to use in a dog’s diet, in small quantities and these are: millet – easy to digest rice / brown rice sorghum oat spelt quinoa Dogs do need some carbohydrates, however, vegetables are the ideal sources for them such as carrots, sweet potato, broccoli, etc. When it comes to cereals, rice is one that can be included in small quantities especially if your dog has an upset stomach. Corn (aka Maize) should be avoided as dogs cannot actually digest it (neither can we and the evidence is there for us to see ). Manufacturers use corn to bulk up the food. Vegetable oil This could mean any vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, palm oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil and the likes. There is no need for a dog to consume any of this and unfortunately simple vegetable oils like the ones mentioned are highly inflammatory meaning that they will make certain health conditions worse or simply cause some. For instance, skin conditions can be due to the inclusion of these vegetable oils and if your dog suffers from health conditions such as irritable bowel, arthritis, diabetes or any local inflammation, vegetable oils will worsen these. Brewers Rice We already know that rice should not form the main part of a dog’s diet but I thought I’d just clarify what Brewers Rice is. It is the smallest fragments of rice kernels that have been separated from the larger kernels of rice that is milled. Many within the pet food industry describe grain by-products such as Brewers Rice as “Floor Sweepings”. While this may seem like a joke, it is not and is not an inaccurate description of these type of ingredients. Along with Rice Flour, and Brewers Rice, other examples of low-quality grain by-products are Rice Bran and Rice Gluten, as such these are, without a doubt, a low-quality grain ingredients and low-cost fillers which should have no place in dog food. Glycerine Glycerine is basically used as a sweetener albeit it is also helpful as a binder to bind ingredients into a chewy form. Not only should it not be in a dog’s meal but it is also dangerous if it’s origin is other than vegetable as it could actually be the by-product of processing diesel! Preservatives The worst offenders are butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), which are added to oils to prevent them from going rancid. Sadly, they are carcinogens, i.e. cause cancerous tumours! Natural preservatives, such as antioxidants are much better to use as preservatives. However, we are lucky if our human foods are preserved with these (vitamin C & E are the most common ones) never mind our canine’s food! Bone meal Bone meal or ground bone is added to some dog foods as a natural calcium and phosphorous supplement. Its definition is very vague as it could come from any animals so if your dog is intolerant to a specific meat, bone meal is probably best avoided. Hydrolysed Animal Proteins Proteins are formed from long chains of amino acids and by using enzymes and/or acids to perform a process called hydrolysis, these chains can be broken down into their constituent parts. The resulting substance, now called protein hydrolysate or hydrolysed proteins are then spray dried to form a powder which can be useful in pet food for a number of reasons, such as: flavour enhancers for those dogs who are allergic to certain protein as these allegedly don’t trigger an allergic reaction cheap source of amino acids found in protein (amino acids are building blocks or thousands of things in dogs and humans therefore extremely important) The starting product for hydrolysed animal proteins usually come from slaughterhouse castoffs albeit some companies use better quality ingredients. As a nutritionist, I believe that what is best for dogs and us humans are the natural things in life, things that look like nature intended. It’s a bit like being a vegan and eating nothing but Quorn or fake meat for protein (instead of healthy options such as tofu, legume, nuts & seeds. Now that is no way healthy in my view and that person would do much better if actually ate some good quality steak or chicken. Same rule applies to dogs, if it’s not natural it shouldn’t form the main part of the diet. Meat meal Meat meal is made from the parts of animals that aren't consumed by humans. This could be up to a third to a half of the original animal and generally includes residual meat, offal, connective tissues and in some cases bones. It is a fine, dry, brown powder which, for many years, has formed the backbone of the dry dog food industry around the world. Ash Ash is not an added ingredient, it simply refers to the mineral content of the food, therefore it shouldn't be viewed as bad or good. Summary Look for ingredients like meat (be it human-grade, dried or freshly prepared), vegetables (other than the ones mentioned above or those toxic to dogs), herbs, fruit, acceptable grains but only in small quantities and that’s it really. Added vitamins and minerals can be included but not necessary.
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