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Separation Anxiety in Dogs
The Anxiety of Isolation Separation anxiety is quite well-known to some owners. Here’s a scenario too many dog owners are familiar with: you come home after a hard day of work to find your curtains in shreds, the walls stripped to their panties, and your puppy sheepishly wagging its tail. Was this just poor management on your part? You were sure you closed the crate's door properly, but somehow that darn Devil made its way out, AGAIN! If this is the case, it’s more likely to be something a lot more serious, something many of us dog lovers dread: separation anxiety. Separation anxiety is a crippling behavioural disorder in dogs. It's characterised by a series of intense behaviours triggered by the departure of their owner. It can include anything from howling and barking, to defecating, self-mutilation, and the destruction of anything, be it expensive or not. Unfortunately, it’s become one of the most common behavioural issues reported in pups. So, what can we do? The well-agreed answer amongst experts is prevention. Treatment is extremely difficult (although not impossible) and requires a lot of patience and commitment, so prevention is your best first step. You should focus on isolation exercises during the first few months of their life. Before they learn to come, sit, and roll over, they need to learn how to be alone. I love food puzzles for this. Fill a Cow hoof or a Kong with some of peanut butter, pate, yoghurt with fruit or pate and freeze it overnight. Freezing ensures the treats take a longer to finish, allowing you to prolong the exercise. Offer your pup the hoof or Kong and wait for them to get super invested. We’re talking lip licking, tail wagging, and complete focus. Quietly and without any fan fair, step out of sight. Wait just a few seconds before returning. The key to training any behaviour is lots of repetitions that start small and build gradually. If your pup is insistent on following you, place them in a contained area (a crate, x-pen, or even tethered). Everything about your behaviour needs to be nonchalant. No cooing, awhing, or squealing praise for your pup. Just leave and return. Leave and return. Leave and return. For the first 6 months of a puppies’ life, they should never be left alone for long stretches of time. A good rule of thumb is an hour per month of age, so 3 hours for a 3-month-old. Before you go, they should be well exercised and ready for rest. Great options are a game, training session, or a sniff walk. They also need to have something to do while you’re gone, they can’t just be expected to sit in the dark and wait. I like to leave some soft chew toys for them to keep busy. You can also play calming music to help your pup be relaxed and happy while you’re away. Or simply leave the radio or telly on. When you leave and again when you return, you should keep your behaviour calm. The departure should be uneventful, and the greeting short and sweet. A recent study found that playing or feeding your dog within 30 minutes of arrival greatly increased their likelihood of separation anxiety. A quick pet and a pee break are the best way to greet them, and once they’ve settled you can play to your heart’s content. Now if you’ve missed the boat on prevention and their anxiety is full blown, the best advice I can give you is to seek a professional. I like to compare it to anxiety in children. We would never expect a parent to deal with their child’s disorder without the help of a therapist, so why do we expect dog parents to fix their fur-babies anxiety on their own? Along with a training plan, it’s likely your pup will also need the help of medication. Even in humans, therapy often works best in conjunction with medication, so let’s not expect more from our dogs than we expect from ourselves. A veterinary behaviourist is the safest route to go. Not only can they come up with an awesome training plan but they can also prescribe the best medications to go in hand. Recovery is possible. A recent study found that 64% of the dogs treated for separation anxiety were successful. They did see a lack of compliance from some parents which may coincide with many of the unsuccessful cases. Its also important to note that progress can be slow. You are trying to change an association that has been built over time. It may seem like nothing is happening until one day it is. Do not lose hope. Make sure to follow through with every exercise your trainer gives you, even if it feels redundant. At the end of the day, separation anxiety is a common problem that will most likely continue to increase. Its important we get a head start with our puppies, being sure to teach them to be alone, but also to not over-isolate them. When faced with a more serious problem, there is no shame in asking for help from a professional. You’re doing what is best for you, for your pup, and every expensive thing in your house. N.B. This post has been written by the lovely, Megan Sheil, who is a professional dog-trainer with 7 years of experience working with animals in every field from horse racing, dog training, and even avian hospitals. You can follow her dog adventures on Instagram: @sheil.train or book a free consult through her website: www.sheiltrain.com
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How to Toilet Train a Puppy
Toilet training (or potty training) a puppy may be one of the most important things you do with your new arrival. Everyone—whether two- or four-legged—is happier when puppy knows the rules of where and when to go potty. As you work on potty training for a puppy, keep in mind that it’s natural for a puppy to view the whole world as one giant potty area. The keys to teaching your puppy where to take potty breaks are regular outings, proper management, appropriate supervision and positive reinforcement. (Punishment has no place in potty training!) It is a process that takes both time and patience, but you and your puppy can master this important task. How long does it take to toilet train a puppy? That largely depends on how consistent you are and how long your puppy can hold it. (Small breed puppies typically have a harder time holding it than large breed puppies, for example.) Some dogs get it within a week, but personally I think two-three weeks is more of a reasonable exception, but it can take longer, especially with male dogs (my beagle boy was not reliable until 18 months or so!). As noted before, it largely depends on how consistent you are; if you are not around enough to notice the accidents when they happen, it will take longer for your puppy to understand the rules. Things you need for Potty Training a Puppy Collar or harness Hands-free 3-4 foot non-retractable leash 15-foot non-retractable leash Newspaper or Cardboard flattened Tasty small-sized treats Carpet cleaner for pet stains Mops and floor cleaner Lots of love! Proper management and supervision are crucial to successful house training. Until your puppy is fully house trained, make sure your puppy is always either managed or supervised. By management I mean either a confined space in the house where you don’t mind him to go or crate. If you are going to crate train your puppy, make sure the puppy is comfortable in the crate. It should be just big enough for your puppy to turn around and lie down, but not much larger. That way, the puppy can stretch out a little, but they can’t potty in the corner and then snooze comfortably in another corner. There are many benefits to crate-training your puppy and it certainly makes house-training much easier as well. If you'd like to know more about these, please visit the relevant section in our Ultimate Guide for First Time Dog Owners. Pottying that happens outside is an opportunity for positive reinforcement for going in the right place, and the more often you reinforce appropriate pottying, the faster your puppy will be house trained. It’s still important to keep an eye on the puppy, though, so you know if the puppy has pottied or not. How can I tell if my pup wants to go to the toilet? There are a couple of classic signs to watch out for, such as your pup looking around the room or sniffing and circling certain areas, particularly the floor or near the door they would usually use to visit the garden. Steps to house-train a puppy Take your puppy out at least once every 30 minutesTake your puppy out on a lead, which will help your puppy learn to potty on a lead in general, which is useful since you’ll probably want your dog to potty on walks at some point. It also keeps the puppy from running around and getting distracted by all the interesting things around them. Give your puppy 5 minutes, watching the whole time to see if the puppy pees or poops.Stand still in one spot, in an area where it’s OK for your puppy to potty. Quietly watch the puppy. By standing still, you keep the puppy in a small enough area that they will get bored with exploring fairly quickly and focus on pottying faster. By keeping quiet, you help your puppy stay focused on pottying, instead of interacting with you. Praise and offer a treat if the puppy pees or poops outside within 5 minutes.Wait until the puppy has finished pottying. You don’t want to interrupt the puppy and have them finish that potty indoors! As soon as you’re sure the puppy is done pottying, offer praise and hand them a tasty treat. NOTE: If puppy does not pee or poop within five minutes, that’s OK. Take your puppy back inside for 10 to 20 minutes. After 10 or 20 minutes, go back to Step 1. After the puppy pees or poops, give the puppy off-lead fun time.Fun time can take place outdoors if it’s a safe area to be off lead (and if your puppy likes being outdoors), or indoors under supervision if outdoors is not an option (or if your puppy doesn’t want to stay outdoors). Giving your puppy off-lead fun time once the puppy pees or poops teaches the puppy that pottying leads to more fun. Most importantly, avoid the common mistake of confining the puppy right after they potty. If you bring the puppy back to their confinement area right after a successful mission, they learn that pottying ends the fun. Then they may start to wait longer and longer to potty, which is the opposite of what you want, right? Repeat these steps throughout the day.Give your puppy lots of chances to potty in an appropriate potty area. Then use positive reinforcement (treats, play, praise) to encourage your puppy to keep pottying in those areas. The more times your puppy gets it right (and the fewer times your puppy has an accident), the faster your puppy will learn the routine. In addition to regular 30-minute potty breaks, take your puppy to the potty area at these likely potty times: After eating After drinking After 5-10 minutes of play or other vigorous activity Immediately after waking up from a nap The importance of feeding schedule One good way to get toilet-training under control is to put your puppy on a feeding schedule. In addition to pottying right after eating, many puppies potty again some regular period of time after eating. If you note a) when you feed your puppy and b) when your puppy potties between meals, you can start to find patterns. Use your notes to make sure your puppy always goes out to a potty area at the right times after eating. With a feeding schedule, you give your puppy regular meals, at regular times, rather than leaving the food bowl out all the time. Fixed meal times make it easier to set up a schedule of potty breaks. The right feeding schedule depends on age, size and what suits you most. However, up to the age of 6 months, it’s advisable to feed your puppy 3 times a day. What if my puppy potties in the wrong place? If you see your puppy having an accident, calmly take the puppy outside and then praise and offer a treat for going in the right place. Fight the urge to yell or scold! Punishing your puppy, whether that’s by yelling and scolding or pushing the puppy’s nose into the urine, will not help. Punishing your puppy usually teaches them to pee and poop where you can’t see them. In other words, they won’t stop doing it in the house; they’ll just hide before they do their business. This is because puppies often misinterpret punishment to mean they shouldn't potty in front of you. The nuance that the punishment was about pottying indoors may be totally lost on them. Clean up past accidents thoroughly The odour from past accidents is like a “restroom” sign for your dog. Identify the spot and use a simple mix of water and white vinegar (50:50). Do not use bleach as it has ammonia in, which is also found in urine! After you clean, get on your hands and knees and sniff the area to make sure the smell is gone. You may also want to sniff other areas, just in case—you’d be amazed how many “missed” pee spots I’ve found this way! Cheat Sheet Take your puppy to a potty area (outdoors or indoors) on a lead at least once every 30 minutes while you are home and awake. At night, one or two outings are enough for most puppies. Stand still and quietly watch to see if the puppy pees or poops. Praise and offer a treat as soon as the puppy finished its business. If the puppy does not do anything, that’s OK—take the puppy back inside for 10 to 20 minutes, and then outside again. After the puppy pees or poops, play with the puppy outdoors, or give puppy up to 15 minutes of carefully supervised time in the house (whichever the puppy prefers). Repeat these steps throughout the day.
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Your Puppy's First Night at Home
How to survive your puppy's first night at home? Getting a new puppy is truly one of life’s greatest moments. Who could resist those adorable eyes, constantly wagging tail, floppy ears, the whining and crying on the first night….. did I just say crying?! Yes, many puppies struggle with the first night in their new homes, as it is all unfamiliar and they are no longer with their mum and siblings. As a result, the first few nights can be very stressful for both puppy and human. Your puppy will feel lonely and will probably demonstrate this by whining. However, it doesn’t have to be! In this article we share with you some helpful tips that should make it more enjoyable. However, before you consider the first night, make sure that you have prepared both yourself and your home and garden for the arrival of your new puppy. Please visit our Ultimate Guide for First Time Dog Owners, which details all the things you need to bear in mind for your pooch's safety. You want to get the first day right, as it plays a part on how easy (or not) the night will be. Keep it all calmYour house will be full of new smells, sounds, people, which is stressful. However, by keeping it all calm you can massively reduce your pup’s anxiety. If you have children, talk to them about trying to be calm and letting the puppy make friends at his pace. Show them your gardenAs soon as you get home, take your little fluff-ball outside as he will likely need to go to the toilet and you can show him where you’d like him to regularly go. Start using a command that you want him to associate with relieving himself. Give him 10-15 minutes. The right sized sleeping area Whether you decide to use a crate or bed or both make sure it is nice and snug. With regards to crates, it’s wise to get a big one which will suit your adult dog but opt for one that can be adjusted to a smaller size. You don’t want a big crate as then the puppy would use one corner of it as a toilet. Put either some soft blankets in it or use a dog bed so that your puppy can be cozy. Some soft, cuddly toys should also be placed in the crate. Our favourite is the Polar Bear, which is super-soft and cute and of a good size. The best place for the sleeping areaMany people will say that the right area would be your bedroom. Personally, I disagree unless you are willing to let your dog ALWAYS sleep in your bedroom. If not, then do not start there as after a few weeks you would have to introduce your puppy to a new situation, which is stressful. If you are OK with your puppy sleeping in your bedroom for the rest of his life, then go ahead but do not let your puppy go to bed with you as that will form an undesirable habit. (N.B. you might be single and think it is OK for your puppy to be in your bedroom, but you will eventually have a partner who might not like the idea but it will be very tricky to get your dog out of the bedroom if he always slept there) Another reason why I’m not a fan of dogs in the bedroom is that I believe that dogs in general sleep sounder if not in the close presence of their humans as with any movement or noise we make in the night we can alert our dogs. Choose a warm area in your house that you will be happy for your dog to sleep for the rest of his life. We’ve always had the crate next to the radiator in the dining room, which is under our bedroom so we could listen out to sounds and intervene if necessary. If your puppy whines, barks or cries certainly offer some assurance that someone is about and they are not isolated. However, there is a fine line between being there for your puppy to see or becoming your puppy’s sleep comforter. Ensure puppy has had some mental stimulation and company throughout the day as well as the advised amount of physical exercise for your puppy’s age. Give your puppy a stuffed dog toy to snuggle with. If you can you could introduce your puppy to a toy whilst he is with his littermates and get all the familiar smells on it and use this in his crate. However, bear in mind that sosme dogs might start chewing it. Personally I find that bigger, softer toys, which can be used as a pillow work best for puppies. For this reason we love the Hugglehounds Snoozie or the Polar Bear toy as both are super-comforting. Toilet-breaksSome people opt to get up and take their puppy outside for toilet breaks. If you decide to do this, be prepared to do it two or three times a night! Once back inside, just put him back in the crate, without any fuss, play or treats. Do not lock the crate as puppies are unable to hold the urge to relieve themselves until they are about 5-6 months old.Another option is to put down newspapers or cardboard near the crate, which your puppy can use. Personally, this is what I have always done until my dogs were 6 months old. Over the months there will be less and less mess but be prepared for a lot initially. Puppy-pads are a debatable subject and personally I think using newspaper or cardboard is much better (and cheaper). Water bowlsSome crates have water-bowls, which clip onto the crate, if yours is like that just put some water in it. If not just leave a bowl out for your puppy should he get thirsty at night. (In my experience, most dogs don't drink at night at all, just like we don't either. Night-time is for sleep) The very fist nightTo begin with, toilet your puppy and then supply some peanut butter spread on a lickpad or a final biscuit, say ‘Night-night’ quietly and leave the room. You may hear a few cries, whines or attention barks. As long as all your puppy’s needs are being met, I would leave puppy for a few minutes, if after that amount of time your puppy is still being noisy then I would go down to puppy and open the door a little and say ‘shush’ quietly with not actually entering the room then leave again. You may have to repeat but I have found this the most effective way. This should then only take 1-3 nights for things to settle down In the morning do not make a big fuss when re-entering the room, calmly let your puppy out of the crate and take out to toilet. Bring your puppy back in and clear up any overnight mess and feed your puppy breakfast then take your puppy out again for another toilet and play time. In the daytime do not leave your young puppy for more than 2 hours in the crate (ideally much less) at any one time. When you need to put your puppy in the crate whilst you are out or doing some jobs around the house, put a lickpad with peanut butter in for him or some little treats like sprats or fish sticks (both are totally safe options)so that he can chew and lick, which will keep him busy as well as reduce his anxiety. Ensure your puppy has plenty of interaction with you inside and outside the home when they are not resting. The crate is for sleeping, chilling out and learning some independence from you. If overused for long periods, it will become an area of dislike and this in when anxiety starts to set in as your puppy is lonely and bored. Don’t forget every dog is different and you might have to slightly adjust the above. If you have another dog, the first few nights are likely to be a lot easier. The above tips should definitely help but don’t forget the most important things are patience and consistency!
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Dogs and Fireworks
Keeping your dog safe and happy during fireworksA fear of fireworks in dogs, or of other loud noises, is quite common especially around bonfire night and new year when they’re very loud and unpredictable!While we know fireworks are nothing to worry about, it can be hard to convince our dogs that they are just pretty things to look at. Their effects can be devastating for some dogs. If not treated promptly, mild worry can escalate into a serious phobia of loud noises, and, in the worst cases, anything your dog has come to associate with fireworks, such as the approach of dusk.If your dog is scared of fireworks, there’s no need for you to cancel your firework plans, though – just follow a few tips that will help your Fireworks Night, New Year’s Eve or birthday celebration go smoothly.Before Fireworks: Acclimatise your dog to firework noisesIf your dog is scared of loud noises, ask your vet if they can recommend a pet behaviourist. Training and acclimatisation, especially when young, can teach dogs that bangs and rumbles are nothing to worry about. You can also buy CDs designed to get your dog used to loud noises or you can try to create the bangs yourself Keep your dog in after nightfallWalk your dog during daylight hours and keep them inside after nightfall. Even if you’re not having a fireworks party yourself, your neighbours might be, which could be a bit of a surprise to your dog. MicrochipPanicking animals can easily run away and get lost or injured, so it’s also a good idea to make sure they’re microchipped, just in case. Speak to your vetIf your dog is scared of fireworks and their behaviour doesn’t change, let your vet know that they’re still showing signs of anxiety around loud noise. During fireworks Be calm and reassuringYour dog takes their cues from you, their most trusted friend. Stay relaxed and calm and do not make more of a fuss of your dog than normal, even if they act distressed. If your dog is scared of fireworks, try to reassure them that everything is fine; carry on as normal and they will soon start to follow your lead. Muffle soundsIf your dog’s staying in with you, keep your curtains drawn and windows closed to quieten fireworks outside. Play music or turn on the TV to provide a constant, identifiable noise to mask infrequent, random bangs. Provide canine companyA problem shared is a problem halved. If your friends have dogs with whom your dog gets along, especially if they aren’t fazed by loud noises, ask them to visit. Create a safe, cozy place for your dogDo not lock your dog in the crate as this can be even more stressful. If you let your dog cuddle up with you on the sofa, this could be an ideal solution for a peaceful night in. Alternatively, create a cozy corner with lots of blankets and chews. Don’t forget that chewing relives stress and anxiety, and best to opt for long-lasting chews, which you can check out on our Long-lasting chew page. Draw the curtainsif your dog doesn’t like the visual effects of fireworks, make sure you have the curtains drawn. It’s never a good idea to take your dog to a firework display, even if you think they are happy around fireworks. It’s one thing for a dog to tolerate fireworks in the safety of their home environment but being outside with them all around is another thing entirely. Remember that a frightened dog can show signs of aggression. Never tell them off or punish them if they’re frightened or anxious as this will only make things worse. They’re best left alone so don’t attempt to force anything on them and explain to children why they need to be given space.
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Reactive Dogs
Reactive Dogs, Leash Reactivity, Dog to Dog Reactivity all refer to the same phenomenon, notably dogs being on the lead and showing aggression or other unwanted behaviour when other dogs approach. This causes anxiety both to the dog and owner. But how do you correct this behaviour? Can it be overcome at all? Why do some dogs react to others when on a lead? These are some of the questions we try to answer in this article. Firstly, dog reactivity is not the same as dog aggression, however, reactive dogs could become aggressive dogs if not handled properly. Dogs can be reactive for many reasons, but the most common ones are: FearDogs can fear or dislike other dogs because they had a bad experience or were not socialised in puppyhood. These dogs usually bark and lunge to keep other dogs away. FrustrationSome dogs absolutely love other dogs and want to say hello and play with all other dogs but when they are on a lead they cannot do this, which causes frustration, which in turn makes them bark and lunge. These dogs are totally fine with other dogs when they are in an off-lead environment. Past experienceSimilarly to humans, dogs do what works! If every time they jump on the kitchen counter and manage to eat your steak then they will always try to jump upon the kitchen counter. The other important thing we need to remember is that dogs communicate by behaviour. They don’t speak human language, to them the slightest facial expression, change in posture, staring look, ears down and so on is sufficient to let other dogs know what they like, don’t like or will do. Dogs are peaceful creatures and in an ideal world they would not be on a lead but roam free, run, play and do all the other doggy stuff at their own will. However, this doesn’t necessarily suit us for all sorts of reason so sometimes it is inevitable not to put them on leads. However, when dogs are on leads, they become vulnerable. If they are vulnerable, they can get stressed, fearful or anxious and will trigger their natural ‘fight or flight’ response. When a dog is stressed it will either show the typical signs of being anxious (see below) or mask it by aggression (fight or flight). Signs of a dog being stressed: Tail down and/or curled under Ears are back and down Body is slightly curled/crouched Head turned away from the other dogs Paw lifted Licking the lips Once you notice these signs, you need to take steps to alleviate the anxiety whatever the cause might be. Triggers can be other dogs, kids, cars, men wearing hats, runners, cyclists and so on. We need to understand what causes the reactivity. Given the numerous lockdowns we have faced in recent times, many dogs had no opportunity to socialise during puppyhood, which can cause stress when meeting other dogs. If you suspect this is the reason for your dog’s reactivity when on a lead, gentle socialisation should help but you must take it slowly. For example, I’m not keen on public speech. Whilst I’ve done several presentations in my days in the corporate world, I’ve always dreaded them and given the choice I would certainly not deliver any ever again. Given my anxiety and fear of public speech, if somebody had forced me to give a presentation to 200 people just to overcome my fear, I probably would have hidden in the attic until the day has passed! As such I don’t think throwing your dog into meeting many dogs is helpful so wouldn’t recommend putting your dog in large socialisation classes. A better way to approach it would be to agree to meet with a fellow dog-parent a few times and walk the dogs together. After a while you could walk your dog with another fellow dog-owner introducing your dog to yet another K9. As you widen the circle you could get the already vetted dogs together as a pack and your dog should feel comfortable. However, if your dog simply doesn’t enjoy playing or being with other dogs, there is no need to force it. Again, just think about how you would feel if let’s say you are an introvert person who would rather spend the evenings reading books than going out yet somebody forces you to go to nightclubs every evening! There are other ways to make your dog happy, be it DIY agility course in your garden, scentwork, playing hide and seek or fetch, puzzles and so on. If you have a dog who is reactive when on a lead, barking and lunging at other dogs, it is key to remember that simply facing the same situation again and again will only make your dog better at barking and lunging. As such, dealing with a reactive dog should start with managing situations and this means managing the ‘dog on lead’ walks. Instead try the below steps. How to deal with dog reactivity Use high value rewards, diced chicken, cheese, air-dried sprats, whatever your dogs cannot have enough of. Have sufficient space away from distraction and offer a treat. If he won’t take it, you are too close to the trigger. When your dog demonstrates wanted behaviour (makes eye contact with you, no barking towards other dogs) praise him (‘Good boy’ or simple ‘YES’) and offer a treat. If your dog continues to behave nicely and appears relaxed, taking treats you can slowly move towards other dogs but you have to go slowly at this. As soon as you see signs of stress or aggression you should abandon the mission and wait for the next time. Your plan will vary, depending on your dog. You might find that your dog prefers a different food. You may need to regularly switch up the food you offer to get the required response from your dog. You may need to keep your pup much farther away from other dogs at first. I'd highly recommend working with a dog behaviour professional to get the best result, especially if the above tips don't quite get the required change in behaviour. Someone with years of experience applying gentle, evidence-based training techniques will help your dog’s behaviour improve while helping you feel better about walks.
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Rabbit Ears for Dogs
Rabbit ears for dogsRabbit ears are loved by all dogs, regardless of age, size or breed. You can buy rabbit ears with or without fur but many people opt for the furry ones which are believed to be natural de-wormers. These furry bunny ears might look a bit scary and gross to some people as after all rabbits are cute little creatures but let’s not forget that our dogs in the wild would not think for a minute about not eating hairy rabbit ears (or rabbits) just because they look cute. Where do they come from and how are they produced?Rabbit ears are the by-products of the rabbit meat industry. Rabbit meat is commonly consumed in Europe and we source our rabbit ears from both the UK as well as from Europe (Poland mainly but some from Italy).The ears are gently air-dried giving the rabbit ears a very long shelf life of 18 months as well as preserving all the nutrients.Benefits of rabbit ears for dogsRabbit Ears are highly digestible and packed with protein, which makes them a perfect natural chew for dogs as they are made purely from rabbit ear cartilage. Their natural structure offers a semi-durable chewing experience for dogs of all sizes while offering a natural rabbit aroma. They are loved by dogs of all age and size but especially seem to be firm favourites amongst puppies!Rabbit Ears for Dogs Benefits: High in Protein - therefore excellent for maintaining healthy muscles, hair & skin Hypoallergenic – many dogs with allergies can tolerate rabbit protein Improved Digestion – the furry rabbit ears help digestion as the hair is not digestible, increasing fibre in your dog’s diet. As the hair travels through the intestines, it gently brushes away all undigested food, increasing the ability to absorb nutrients Anal Gland Health – due to the increased fibre, rabbit ears make stools firmer which will help to squeeze the anal glands resulting in less inflammation Dental Health – chewing rabbit ears has an abrasive effect on a dog’s teeth, helping them stay clean Natural de-wormer, helping to reduce worm count Relieves Stress and Anxiety – chewing triggers the release of endorphins which reduces stress and anxiety. No bones which can get stuck in the intestines How many to give a day?Whilst they are very nutritious, moderation is key, just like with any other treats. Feeding 2-3 ears a day is plenty. They will last well for puppies so you are likely to give them even less. Rabbit ears are a great way to soothe your teething pup’s itchy gums.Alternatives to Rabbit earsIf you cannot have rabbit ears as they are simply too cute, you could try one of the other treats below: Chicken feet: whilst they contain bones, they are tiny bones, which crumble father than crack or splinter. They are excellent source of glucosamine and chondroitin which support joint health. Antlers: If you’re looking for a natural treat which is long lasting, deer antlers are a real winner. They can last months, and don’t splinter or break, like bones. The chewing action on the deer antlers helps your dog deal with their anxiety, as well as clean their teeth. These are perfect for dogs who need a low fat alternative, as they are generally not ingested. Ears: be it pig, cow, lamb, goat - they are all great alternatives as they are nothing but cartridge, making it great dental chews even for young puppies. One of our most loved treat bag is the All Ears, which gives you a nice variety of ears to try. Suitable from 10 weeks of age. Pizzles: now they are another natural treat, loved by ALL dogs. We have many more chews to choose from and if you need any help, please get in touch.
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How to Prevent Bloating in Dogs
Have you ever heard that feeding from a raised bowl will help prevent bloat in dogs? What about adding water to your dog’s kibble? These are common recommendations to avoid bloat. But what if I told you these things can actually increase your dog’s risk of getting bloat?! What is Bloat? Bloating usually happens when there’s an abnormal accumulation of air, fluid, and/or foam in the stomach (“gastric dilatation”) sometimes brought on by stress. Bloating can make the stomach twist (albeit it can happen without it too). When the stomach twists, both ends of it close off, blocking both entry and exit. So then there’s no way for the air built up in your dog’s belly to get out. Not only that, if the air can’t get out, neither can the fluids, foods or gases. Because there’s no way for the stuff in your dog’s stomach to escape, his belly will start to bloat. As gases build up more, they put pressure on his diaphragm and make it hard for him to breathe. The pressure also cuts off return blood flow to the heart and at this point, shock sets in. All of this can happen in as little as 20 minutes. Which is why it’s so important to act fast. Because GDV (the official term for bloat) is deadly if you don’t. Most people may not immediately recognise the severity of the situation until too many symptoms present themselves. As well as being potentially fatal, bloat is also extremely painful and therefore it is important to know the signs to look out for. Symptoms of bloat in dogs: Retching but being unable to vomit Drooling Panting Shaking, shivering Being restless Abdominal pain when touched Collapse or loss of consciousness Bloating in dogs often happens right after your pooch eats. If you think your dog has bloat, take him to the vet immediately. Dog breeds prone to bloat Any dog can suffer bloat but breeds that have a deep and narrow chest are more susceptible than others. Some breeds are more prone to it and these breeds include: Great Danes St Bernard's Weimaraner's Rhodesian Ridgebacks Dobermans Irish Setters Golden Retrievers Akitas German Shepherds Labradors Whilst those breeds above are more susceptible to bloat, it can happen to any breeds. Age, size, and stress can also contribute to its potential. How to prevent bloating in dogs? Don’t exercise for at least an hour before or after eating Feeding little and often could reduce the risk of bloat Slow down your dog’s eating. There are special bowls you can buy or simply add a large clean rock to the bowl so your dog has to slowly serve himself rather than gulp down big portions Always keep fresh water available Maintain a healthy weight as both under- and overweight dogs are more susceptible to bloat Other preventative steps Feed your dog a mix of wet and dry food Reduce carbs, especially soy and cereals in the diet (if you want to be good at reading dog food labels, you can read our article on Debunking food labels) When switching dog foods, do so over several weeks Avoid dry dog foods that have Fat as one of the first 4 ingredients as well as Citric Acid Feed your dog 30% high-protein, and at least 3% crude fibre Avoid brewer’s yeast, alfalfa, soybean products Promote friendly bacteria using probiotics, but no need for supplements, just get some kefir or plain Greek yoghurt as natural is always better than synthetics! Don’t let your dog drink water too fast How about raised bowls? Many people were told that raised bowls help to prevent bloat but this couldn’t be farther from the truth! Studies have shown that in large and giant breeds, using raised bowl significantly increased the risk of bloat! Research shows that in 20% of cases in large breed dogs, and 52% of giant breed cases, bloat was directly related to having a raised food bowl. It makes sense too. In the wild, dogs eat off the ground. Nobody’s propping their meal up on a log for them! So having his food at ground level is a much more natural posture for your dog!
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Dogs in heat
Not even dogs can avoid the dreaded periods! However, the similarities to a human period pretty much end here and as such if you happen to have a female dog, this article should help you with knowing what to do and how to recognise the first signs. When do female dogs have their first season? Just like humans, dogs are unique, so it varies. Smaller breeds tend to have it sooner, anytime between 6-8 months whilst larger breeds tends to go through it later, sometime between the age of 10-16 months. How to recognise if your dog is in heat? Again this can be wide-ranging but the most common signs include: more frequent urination being more interested in male dogs becoming flirty and more affectionate resting more How long is a dog in season? Most commonly the dog season lasts around 21 days but it can be a bit longer for some dogs. The dog period is often broken down into 4 stages and dogs behave differently in each stage. Proestrus stage This first stage can last from 3 to 17 days but most often lasts 9 days. The most obvious sign is the swelling of the vulva and it is impossible to miss this sign. Signs and behaviour changes: some female dogs become more affectionate, whilst others can become more grumpy some dogs lose their appetite whilst others might become hungrier during this phase the vulva will be swollen, in some dogs it is VERY obvious, less so in others bleeding will start and again for some dogs this will be quite light whilst for others it will be quite heavy most dogs will start guarding the vulva by tucking their tails between the legs or sitting down when another dog approaches Estrus stage This usually lasts on average 9 days but for some dogs, it could be as long as 21 days! This is the dangerous phase when your dog is fertile and more than willing to accept the advances made by the male dogs! Signs and behavioural changes: the bleeding becomes more light coloured the vulva becomes a little less swollen no more tail tucking, quite the opposite! Female dogs become very flirty and actually turn their rear toward male dogs and holding the tail high and out of the way your girl will wish to be outside a lot which she will signal by sitting by the door unless you live in the middle of nowhere and she knows there are no male dogs around to let them know of her fertile window. If you don’t want to get your girl pregnant, during this stage you are best to avoid meeting male dogs. You need to keep your dog on a lead. Some dogs can’t even be let out in the garden on their own as they might make a run for it! Diestrus stageThis stage marks the end of the fertile window and lasts around 60-90 days. During this stage, the vulva slowly goes back to its normal size and your female dog will no longer be interested in flirting. Anestrus stageThis is the final stage which is basically lasts form the end of one period until the beginning of the other. It can lasts around 100—150 days but again it can be different for all dogs. If you are a more visual person, check out the infographics on the different stages. Should I get some dog heatpads? Heatpads are available to buy these days and these can be quite useful if your dog happens to be a heavy-bleeder. If you want to use them, you need to get your dog used to it prior to her period. Try to put it on her for 5 mins at a time. However, it’s not an essential item as most dogs will clean themselves very meticulously. Tips for the dog heat period No off-lead walking – even if your dog is very well trained and obedient, you should never let your dog off the lead when in heat. It is their natural instinct to mate and they will try as hard as they can! Good balance of exercise and rest – if your dog sleeps more whilst in heat, don’t exhaust her walking too much. Observe your dog and just go with the flow. Peppermint oil on the tip of the tail – when out and about if you want to keep male dogs away, you could put some peppermint or eucalyptus oil at the very tip of your female dog’s tail Should your dog start mating with another dog by accident, don’t try to separate them! You can easily harm both dogs. Should an undesired mating/pregnancy happen, consult your vet immediately as there are abortion shots available but they are not without any risks. Of course, another option to keep your dog safe from unwanted pregnancies is to have her spayed but it is not recommended before the first season as they go through some major hormonal changes. However, if you are planning to have some puppies, there are a host of things you need to be aware of, starting with the fact that dog gestation period lasts on average 3 months. There are many more things to consider, which will be the subject of a separate article.
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Teething Puppy Tips
There are few joys greater than bringing home a new puppy. That tiny wagging tail and those big floppy ears are enough to make your heart melt. It’s a time of great discovery, growth and bonding within your family. When taking care of a growing puppy, teething can be one of the most sensitive and challenging times for both the owners and the puppy. Their newly arriving teeth are not only painful to them but can also be painful to much of your furniture, clothing and other household items as well as the pain in their gums drives them to gnaw on everything they can get their paws on to try and get some relief. Puppy teething stages Many of you asks us when puppy teething starts and stops, so let's look at the different stages. The teething process lasts approximately 3 months. Like humans, puppies are born without any teeth before getting 28 temporary teeth, referred to as milk teeth, which are then replaced by 42 adult teeth. 2-4 weeks: around 2 weeks of age, puppies gain their very first teeth 5-6 weeks: around this time, puppies get all their 28 puppy teeth and start eating soft food. Should you have such a young puppy (breeders mainly) then you could give cold fruit and vegetables or puppy-specific food at this stage. 6-12 weeks: your puppy's gum might start to feel a bit sore and appear swollen in preparation for the teething phase. Due to their young age, it's important not to give them anything too harsh that could damage their gum or forming teeth 12-24 weeks: Generally, their puppy teeth start getting pushed out and replaced by their permanent ones. 6 months+: By this time, all of your puppy’s temporary teeth should have been replaced. Your puppy should have a total of 42 teeth How to survive puppy teething The teething process is very uncomfortable for a puppy. It’s important to provide something your pup can chew on to soothe sore gums and help make this process a little more comfortable. By doing so, you’ll be preventing the puppy from finding something on his own to chew, be it your shoes, your couch, or your children’s toys. It’s a good idea to get a variety of toys in to provide for all phases, so something soft like plush toys that they can just gnaw on. Soft toys are especially great for the youngest pups and if you get one that makes some noise, be it a squaeker or crinkley sound, the joy will be even more. Rubbery toys are also good to have in the toy basket, be it a JELLY Bone or a Teether Bone. You might also want to include a tug-of-war toy, like Beco Hemp ball or Ball on rope toy. Tug-of-war can be good for both teething and training, which is critical for your puppy’s development. Needless to say edible chews are definitely good to have on hand, as not only do they relieve the teething pain but they are also delicious and healthy as long as you get your paws on natural treats and chews. We have a wide range of products to offer: Puppy Chomper variety box – ideal when you need a variety of chews as it will give you many to try and you can be safe in the knowledge that everything included inside it, is suitable for new puppies (suitable from 8 weeks+) Rabbit ears – their semi-durable texture is loved by ALL dogs. They are hypoallergenic and great natural de-wormers (suitable from 8 weeks+) Beef Lips - Beef lips are especially firm so they hold out longer against hearty chewers. They are so tasty that even the real fussy dogs go mad for these (suitable from 12 weeks+) Buffalo Skin - long lasting and low-odour chew, full of natural protein, with no preservatives (suitable from 12 weeks+) Bulls Pizzle – long-lasting, excellent dental chews which are loved by even the fussiest dogs (suitable from 12 weeks+) Multiple Delights bags (Long-lasting, Low-fat, All ears, etc.) Yak chews – these long-lasting chews are made from compressed and hardened yak milk with a tiny amount of salt and lime juice Buffalo horn – Long-lasting chews which can be used as natural KONGs. Ours have an open end at both end preventing potential suffocation and keeping it more hygienic (suitable from 12 weeks+) Antlers and Split antlers - Antlers make fantastic dog chews because they are totally natural, long lasting, provide good minerals and are odourless to humans (suitable from 8weeks+) No-hide chews - The long-lasting, heavenly & healthy alternative to rawhide; available in 4 flavours (beef, chicken, salmon and peanut butter) (suitable from 16 weeks+) Please always ensure that you choose age-appropriate chews and that you supervise and provide fresh water. It’s just a phase Above all, don’t forget that it is just a short phase and chewing and mouthing are natural behaviours during this period. Not only is your pup trying to soothe his teething pain, he’s also trying to develop a relationship with his environment. The best tactic to protect your hands, furniture and clothing (which puppies are notorious for chewing) is to make sure those items are located off the ground and out of reach while providing easy access to his chew toys instead. Teething can be really uncomfortable, but it’s also a crucial time for your puppy’s social development. Use teething as an opportunity to soothe the pain, bond with your new family member, and train and play with him so he knows the difference between appropriate chew items and absolute no-nos, like your leather shoes. At the end of the day, the greatest gift you can give your new pup is love, attention and a healthy dose of patience. Let dental care begin Once you’ve passed the teething phase, it’s very important to make sure your dog maintains healthy teeth and gums. Tooth decay and gum disease is a very real concern for dogs as they grow older, and good habits early on can do wonders for them later in life. Check out our dental care tips to establish good habits. Always remember If you feel like you’re having some difficulty reading your dog and providing the best solution, don’t panic. Every dog is different. Have patience and keep trying. With lots of love and attention, you’ll help make this transition as smooth and painless as possible for both you and your newest family member.
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How to Stop a Puppy Biting
Biting and chewing is common in puppies up to one year of age. Much biting and chewing is related to teething in puppies. However, you need to start establishing boundaries on what is acceptable and what is not from the first day you bring your dog home. While you may think your little puppy is adorable when it growls and bites, you will no longer think it is cute when it turns into a 50kg grown up dog biting. And you don’t want your dog’s biting and nipping to send someone to the hospital for stitches. When your puppy comes home with you and is living in a human family, they need to be taught that games with humans don’t include teeth! You don't want puppy biting to be a continued behaviour into adulthood but you do want to teach them appropriate ways for you to play and have fun together: Don’t play rough games with your puppy or push them around with your hands, this is just encouraging them to use their teeth to grab at you. All interactions with your hands should be gentle and soothing; stroking, ear rubs, back-scratching etc. Your puppy should learn that your hands are good things and not tug toys or dog chews. For gentle games of tug, use toys and not your hands. Your puppy needs to chew (and when they are teething, this is ever more important) but you should be encouraging them that toys are for chewing, hands aren’t. Toys such as the Jelly Bone or Jelly Worm treat dispenser toys are ideal. Give your puppy safe toys to chew on, stuffed Puppy Kongs are great and you can even make your own toys using treats inside old cardboard toilet rolls that will let them bite and chew safely. The natural KONG alternatives, such as Buffalo Horn or calf hooves are also good. What should you do if the puppy bites you? When you bring a puppy into your home, it's your job to create boundaries and be consistent with applying the rules for unwanted behaviours, including when it comes to teeth on skin. Don’t overreact or shout at him as that will just make your puppy scared of you. If it was just a one-off accident, ignore it and carry on playing – we all make mistakes. If it happens again, you should ignore the behaviour and remove yourself from the situation without any drama (do not create a naughty puppy corner; just leave the room). Remove yourself for 20 seconds or so. By leaving the interaction, you tell your puppy that play is over, fun is over, attention is over. Be as non-dramatic as possible. If the behaviour is hard for you to ignore, go behind a door or baby gate where your puppy does not have access to continue nipping at you. When you return, introduce a toy into the game so that your puppy has something else to bite. If your puppy tries to nip at you again, remove yourself again, this time for a minute When you return, carry on as nothing has happened before. Life is too short to hold grudges! Every time the puppy bites you, remove yourself with increasing amount of time if the biting continues whenever you return. You should see a major decrease in the intensity of biting as well as the amount of biting attempts within a few days. Don’t forget to give your pup attention and praise when they are behaving nicely! The key is praising him for good behaviour and ignoring unwanted behaviour. All family members and guests MUST be consistent in order for this to work! Why Does This Work? A behaviour that doesn't get reinforced will stop, it’s as simple as that. Your pup will learn that we don't react to biting with play, attention, or even a negative reaction. All of these things can be fun for a puppy. He/She will also learn to self-entertain. Once they realise the nipping isn't working, they will eventually find something else to do and hopefully find a toy to play with. Puppies love the interactions with humans and your puppy will seek out appropriate ways to get your attention, like offering a "sit" or laying at your feet. A few other suggestions to help you stop a puppy biting: It's also good to create a safe place for your puppy, be it a dog crate or baby-gated area of a room. This gives you a break from your puppy, and is a calm place for your puppy to settle down if he gets too wound up. Make sure your puppy has plenty of rubbery teething toys (Beco bone), age-appropriate natural chews (Puppy Chomper Box) and is getting daily exercise, and is not excessively crated. If his needs are not being met, the nipping will take longer to extinguish. Remember that puppies up to the age of 6 months, need to have three meals a day as this helps them have sufficient energy for the day (a tired puppy is more likely to bite/nip) Similar to little kids, puppies can find even negative attention fun! Things we may think are punishing, like pushing your puppy away, yelling at him, etc, can be considered fun, play-like behaviours for your puppy and can encourage biting. As such when you apply the above rules, be as quiet and calm as you can. When should you be concerned about biting in puppies? You should speak to a dog trainer/behavioural therapist if your puppy: Is growling, snapping, or biting when a person comes near a resource (food, toys, etc) Stiffens and stares at the person before biting. Is consistently biting and breaking skin. Barks, growls, or nips (not in play) at new people entering the home. Snaps or growls at children, who are the most common victims of bites. Click here if you want to know more about how to teach your children to behave around dogs. Above all, don’t forget that in the vast majority of cases, puppy biting and mouthing is EXTREMELY normal, for several reasons: Puppies explore the world with their mouths. They go through an uncomfortable teething process that lasts for 2-3 months, most commonly between the age of 4-6 months. They play hard with their siblings, often using their teeth to (successfully) instigate play and attention. Some herding breed dogs are predisposed to nip, herd, and chase small, fast-moving things. On the other hand, Retrievers are predisposed to picking up and holding anything and everything within reach, including your hands and arms. A word on what to avoid: Above all else, avoid physical punishment when it comes to puppy biting. Do not squeeze g your puppy's mouth shut, pin them on their backs, or muzzle them to stop the biting. You do not need to physically punish him to curb this behaviour as the root cause is not dominance, but just simple puppyhood. Summary Puppy biting is totally normal but you have to be able to react in a manner that teaches your puppy what is acceptable behaviour. In order to turn your puppy into a healthy, well-rounded adult dog, you need to meet all his basic needs, such as regular exercise, 3 meals a day, plenty of sleep, nutritious food, good-quality, age-appropriate toys and natural, puppy-friendly chews to help relieve teething pain. Chewing is an essential activity for puppies as it: reduces teething pain relieves boredom and anxiety and promotes dental health by ensuring jaws and teeth remain strong and healthy, free of tartar Click here to discover our 100% natural chews and treats to help your teething puppy. We also have some lovely toys to entertain young pups.
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Supplements for Dogs
Supplements for Dogs Do dogs need dietary vitamins and supplements? Many people take dietary supplements or vitamins and increasingly they’re likely to give them to their pets, too. The most common ones are multivitamins, supplements for joint support or arthritis, fish oil or cod liver oil for dogs to reduce shedding and improve a coat’s shine. Owners also may give probiotics to dogs to alleviate digestive problems or antioxidants to counteract the effects of ageing. With a growing number overweight dogs (putting unnecessary pressure on all organs and joints) and owners reaching for assumed ’miracle-pills’, it is not surprising that the global pet supplements market reached $674.6 million in 2020 and is forecast to reach over $1 billion by 2027. Closer to home, Lintbells Limited (owner of YuMove, a well-known pet supplements firm) had annual sales of £20 million in 2019 representing a 34% growth on prior year!!! But do dogs need those vitamins and supplements? And are they even safe? Experts say some work, others don’t, and some aren’t necessary and may even be harmful to dogs. 1. Does my dog need vitamins? Most dogs receive a complete and balanced diet - including necessary vitamins and minerals - from kibble but bear in mind that not all complete, dry dog food are equal. Dogs fed a homemade diet may need supplements but best to check with a nutritionist for help in determining what, if anything, is needed. 2. Is there any danger in giving my dog vitamins? Possibly. If an animal already eats a balanced diet and receives excess portions of some vitamins and minerals, they could be harmful. Put it simply; carrots are healthy, but if you eat 6 kgs of it daily, you are taking in too much vitamin A, beta-carotene and others nutrients which will cause certain diseases! It’s the same for dogs: too much calcium, for instance, can cause skeletal problems, especially in large-breed puppies; too much vitamin A can harm blood vessels and cause dehydration and joint pain; Excess vitamin D can prompt a dog to stop eating, harm bones, and cause muscles atrophy (the muscle dies off due to imbalance between vitamin D and calcium), just to mention a few. 3. Should I check with my vet before supplementing? Not a bad idea. Symptoms that look like arthritis, such as a dog with a weak rear end, could instead be a neurological problem. A poor coat could indicate skin, metabolic or hormonal problems. Ingredients in some supplements, such as herbals, may interact with other medicine an animal is taking. Your vet can also assess whether your pet needs a supplement at all. If they’re eating a complete and balanced diet and they’re healthy and have no problems, they don’t actually need supplementation. However, if you really want to boost the nutrients in your dog’s diet, reach for fruits and vegetables. They are the easiest for the body to absorb and digest and they are the most natural sources of an array of vitamins and minerals. Most supplements are not safe to use over a long period of time, the only exception to that is probably probiotics. However, why would you give your dog a probiotics pill when you can just put plain, unflavoured kefir or yoghurt on their food, which are the best probiotics. 4. Do dog supplements work? It depends on what the supplement is used for and how it is manufactured. Clinical trials are rare so it’s hard to find quality evidence for the efficacy, much less the need for these products. Glucosamine-chondroitin supplements, commonly given to dogs with osteoarthritis, have shown mixed results in testing in humans and animals. Antioxidants such as vitamins C and E reduce inflammation and help aging dogs with memory problems, however, you have to bear in mind that nutritional supplements haven’t been tested for long-term safety in dogs and as such nobody really knows the long-term consequences of putting any dogs on them, not to mention young puppies. 5. How should I choose a supplement? Here are some tips: Look for a brand that specialises in one area. Read labels. Know the name of the ingredient you’re looking for, so you won’t be deceived by sound-alikes. Look for a contact number for the company on the label. Call and ask who formulated the product, where they sourced the ingredients from, what expertise they have, and how long the manufacturer has been in business. For instance fish oil can come from contaminated fish which means you are actually giving harmful stuff to your dog such as mercury! Be wary of claims that sound too good to be true, such as promises to alleviate diseases like parvovirus, cancer and hip dysplasia. Look for certification from an organisation that has independently verified a supplement’s contents. Be cautious about giving human supplements to dogs. Some products, such as garlic, can be dangerous for dogs. Know the seller. 6. What about supplements in dog food? Check the label to see how much of an ingredient is actually in the food but they tend to be well below the therapeutic dose and as such are less of a worry. A prescription dog food, on the other hand, may contain therapeutic levels of the supplement. Other dog foods might contain botanicals, such as cranberry, to ward off urinary tract infections or DHA to boost cognitive development in puppies. Summary Similar to humans, dogs need a variety of nutrients each day to stay healthy, including calcium and vitamin D to protect the bones, folic acid to produce and maintain new cells, and vitamin A to preserve a healthy immune system and vision. Yet the source of these nutrients is important and it is best to try to get these vitamins and minerals and nutrients from food as opposed to supplements (true for both humans and dogs). If you feed your dog a premium-quality, complete, balanced diet, you shouldn't need to supplements your pet's diet at all. But don't forget that there is a big difference between a £10 and £50 bag of kibble! Fruits, vegetables, fish, and other healthy foods contain nutrients and other substances not found in a pill, which work together to keep both us and our dogs healthy. We can't get the same synergistic effect from a supplement. Taking certain vitamins or minerals in higher-than-recommended doses may even interfere with nutrient absorption or cause side effects. If you want to boost your dog’s bowl, add some healthy veg and fruit to it or reach for a can of sardines. Should you need more advice on which vegetables are best, click on the link Vegetables for Dogs - Chomp and Chew
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The Benefits & Risks of the Raw Diet
Raw diet – the benefits & risks Raw food diet has become extremely popular in the last few years and there are good reasons for it. However, it is not without its risks. This article will assess both the risks and benefits of it to help you make wiser choices for you pooch! RISKS of a raw food diet The risks of feeding your dog a raw food diet centre around the possible bacteria and other pathogens found in raw food, which also present a risk to us humans. Let’s take a look at these. Salmonella The most common pathogen found in raw food is Salmonella, a type of bacteria that can cause gastrointestinal illness. It is not specific to raw food for your dog as it is commonly found in eggs, meat intended for human consumption. Dogs have shorter gastorintestinal tract, speeding up the food’s transit time which also means that any pathogen found in their stomach will cause a less significant threat to them. As such, the risk is actually to the human, especially to frail people like young infants, the elderly, and immune-compromised people (e.g. those with immune system diseases such as Lupus, or those on immune-suppressing drugs like steroids or chemotherapy). Salmonella rarely poses any real threat to healthy animals. In fact, dogs can actually be carriers simply from environmental exposure (rest assured, the vast majority of human cases are unrelated to dogs!). If you feed your dog raw food, always ensure good hygiene and to be on the safe side it is prudent to avoid feeding pets non-organic raw ground beef, due to severe contamination problems in the meat packing industry. Listeria Listeria is another common environmental bacterium. The vast majority of Listeria cases in people come from processed foods, like cheese, raw vegetables and cold cuts. Healthy people (and pets) are resistant and don’t usually become ill from this bug. Safe handling Common sense says that handling raw meat diets for pets is no different from buying raw meat at the grocery store to make hamburgers for your family. By always following good hygiene and safe handling of all raw animal products, you’ll virtually eliminate the risk of illness for your pet and your family. BENEFITS of raw food diet Raw meat diets are credited with restoring the health of dogs. Advocates of the diet report big improvements in skin, coat, energy, and overall wellbeing. Raw diets have helped many pets recover from a wide variety of health problems, including allergies, asthma, urinary tract problems, digestive issues, dental disease, immune disorders, degenerative diseases, and epilepsy. Is it suitable for all pets? The simple answer is NO. Just like there are many diets available to humans (omnivore, vegetarian, vegan, Keto, Paleo, Low-fat, etc.) it doesn’t mean that one diet suit all humans! Similarly, raw diets aren’t for every pet. Animals with inflammatory conditions of the gut, and those taking immune-suppressing drugs, should not be fed raw meat until their systems have time to heal. Additionally, not all dogs like raw diet. There are many pet-owners who put their dogs on raw diet and whilst the dog has seemed to thrive on it initially, after a while some dogs can lose interest and/or appetite and have to be put on a different diet. Like us, every dog is unique and what suits one dog, doesn’t necessarily suit all! Take-away Remember that there are no two dogs alike and therefore there is no single diet or food brand that suit every dog! Whilst many people talk about the benefits of a raw diet there can be multitude reasons why you don’t want to follow the trend and/or your dog doesn’t wish to be on a raw food diet. The best you can do is to ensure that you choose a premium quality food (be it raw, wet or complete dry food), provide a bit of variety (you wouldn’t want to live on chicken only, would you?), supplement with steamed veg and some either raw or cooked meat (no seasoning etc.). You can even mix feed (dry and raw) as dogs are very adoptable. And the most important of all give your dog plenty of exercise and LOVE.
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