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Are Dogs Colour Blind?
Are dogs colour-blind? For decades, it was widely believed that dogs live in a black and white world. This idea was attributed to Will Judy, who, in 1937, declared that dogs had poor vision and were only able to see single shade and general outlines and shapes. Further research in the 1960s affirmed his theory and the idea that dogs are colour-blind became widely accepted. What is colour-blindness? People with colour vision deficiency find it difficult to identify and distinguish between certain colours. It's sometimes called being "colour blind", although total colour blindness (an inability to see any colour) is very rare. There are different types of colour blindness and in extremely rare cases people are unable to see any colour at all, but most colour blind people are unable to fully ‘see’ red, green or blue light. The most common forms of colour blindness are collectively known as ‘red/green colour blindness’. Although ‘red/green colour blindness’ is a common term, there are different types and severities (Source: Colour Blind Awareness). Being ‘red/green colour blind’ means people and/or dogs with it can easily confuse any colours which have some red or green as part of the whole colour. So someone with red/green colour blindness is likely to confuse blue and purple because they can’t ‘see’ the red element of the colour purple. How do dogs’ eyes compare to humans? There are some basic differences driven by evolution and function. Dogs are nocturnal hunters, tracking and catching their food at night and as such their eyes adapted to see well at night and focus on movements as opposed to a trichromatic vision (full colours). Additionally, there are structural differences as well. The retina has: rods, which are responsible for catching movement and working in low lights; and cones, which work in bright lights and control colour perception. Dogs’ eyes have more rods than humans, which means they can see much better at night. Dogs also have a layer of eye tissue that humans lack called the tapetum lucidum, it reflects light into the retina. This boosts dogs' night vision even more and is the reason why dogs' eyes shine in the dark. Can dogs see colours? Dogs can see colours, but only in shades of blue and yellow. Because dogs can only see these two colours, they have dichromatic vision. They can also see shades of grey. Colours such as red, orange, and green are out of a dog’s colour spectrum, so these colours are not visible to dogs. This is why hunters can wear orange to be visible to other hunters but not to animals. People have what’s called trichromatic vision, which means we can see a lot more colours than dogs. Dogs can make out yellow and blue, and combinations of those colours. This renders a lot of the world greyish-brown. What does your dog think of your lush green lawn? It probably looks like a field of dead hay. That bright red throw on his sofa? Still comfy, but it probably comes across as a dark brown blob to your dog. How good is a dog’s eyesight? A dog’s vision is blurry. If a dog were a human, they would be considered near-sighted and would need glasses to see objects farther away, like the board in the front of the classroom or a road sign. However, dogs’ eyes are spaced slightly farther apart than ours, at a 20-degree angle. This greater angle increases the field of view and therefore a dog’s peripheral (side) vision. How about sighthounds? Sighthounds are dogs historically bred for hunting by speed and sight. Their vision extends to a whopping 270-degree field (our range is only 180 degrees), allowing them to effectively scan the horizon for possible prey. Sighthounds also have something called stereoscopic vision, which means they are well-suited to seeing moving objects. Their eye placement and vision not only allow them see objects behind them but also over a half-mile out in front! However, when it comes to the spectrum, theirs is as limited as any other dog breeds’. What does it all mean to you and your dog? Now that you know that dogs don’t see certain colours, it would make sense to choose products for them that feature the colours they can see. This knowledge may help explain why some dogs go crazy over yellow tennis balls, but are apathetic about the same ball in pink or red. When you’re throwing a ball or any fetch toy for your dog to retrieve in the grass or the lake, don’t choose something red, or he’s likely to lose it. And if you’re teaching him to differentiate between two toys, it would be wise to go for one blue and one yellow. So when your dog runs past the red ball you have just thrown, she may not be stubborn or stupid, it may be your fault for choosing a toy with a colour that is hard to discriminate from the green grass. We have a wide range of toys and many of them are in colours that dogs can see, such as the Monkey Eco toy, Gigwi Rabbit toy, Chuckit Fetch Flight and many more.
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How to Choose a Puppy
Choosing a puppy As the saying goes, “a dog is for life not only Christmas” and therefore it is important to choose the right puppy who will fit in nicely to your lifestyle. There are many things to consider, especially if you are a novice to-be dog-owner. The choices are almost unlimited regarding the breed, background, temperament, activity level, etc. It can feel a little overwhelming if you’re unsure what to look for. But we’re here to make your decision-making process easier by guiding your thought process regarding the puppy you want. What Do You Want From a Dog? When you consider getting a puppy, think about how the pup will fit into your lifestyle. Try to look past the cute puppy phase and think about the type of adult dog you’d want in your life. The puppy phase doesn’t last long, and you will have an adult dog for much longer than the puppy itself. So, it’s essential to ask yourself what type of adult dog you want in your future (a year or more from now). Remember, it doesn’t matter how badly you want a specific dog breed; if their temperaments and personality traits don’t fit into your lifestyle, they might not be the type of dog you need. So, when choosing a puppy, think about the following aspects of your life as well as the traits of the breed: Activity level / How active are you? Your level of activity and whether you’d like to make your dog part of your activity level are vital considerations. Some people want to go on hikes or long walks with their dogs. Others might not enjoy such an active lifestyle or they simply don’t have enough time in the day to do it. If you are a more active person, you will do well with the type of dog that can keep up with your energy levels. On the other hand, if you don’t want to be as active, you would do well with a dog that’s perfectly happy basking in the sun the whole day. How affectionate are you with dogs? Are you the type of person that likes to give lots of hugs and kisses, or are you not that fond of physical touch? Answering this question will determine whether you need a dog that tolerates or even craves the owner’s physical touch or one that doesn’t like to be touched as often. Because many people want dogs as companions, this aspect is crucial, so you and your dog have the same tolerance for embrace and snuggles. How much time do you have? Some dogs need more attention than others. High energy dogs usually get bored quickly, so they need to spend more time with their owners, participating in stimulating activities. Lower energy dogs are those who prefer to sleep most of the day. So, when you answer this question, don’t just think about the type of dog you’d like. Also, think about how much time you can dedicate to your dog every day for the next 10-15 years. Yes, puppies will need more attention than older dogs, which you will need to consider for the early days. However, if you carefully consider the amount of dog-dedicated time per day, you can ensure that you and your dog get enough stimulation from this mutually beneficial relationship. Grooming needsDoes the breed need frequent grooming? Is the breed known for shedding badly? How often will you be able to groom your dog yourself? If you don’t want to groom your dog yourself, how often can you make an appointment at the grooming salon? Can you afford the frequent grooming visits? Some dogs have high maintenance coats that need weekly attention, while others can go without a brush for two months or longer. So, research how often the dog of your choice would need grooming and whether you’re ready for the responsibility and/or the costs associated with grooming. TrainabilityMost dogs need basic training to help adapt their behaviours to their new world. This includes the basic training of potty-training, sit, wait, etc. Some breeds are really easy to train and eager to please the owners, whilst others are more stubborn and selfish and can require experienced owners. That’s why you should consider how much time you have to train your dog. For instance, a Border Collie loves to work and have a purpose, thus needing lots of training. On the other hand, a Pug likes to be lazy and not work as hard, thus not needing as much training. Size of living environmentIt’s a common misconception that all small dog breeds do well in smaller apartments, while large dog breeds need large yards. Sometimes it can be the other way around. It all depends on your dog’s energy levels and how much physical stimulation she/he needs each day. If you live in a small apartment, consider getting a dog that doesn’t mind sleeping most of the day. However, if you are an active person in a small apartment, consider whether you’ll have enough time to take your dog for walks twice a day. HealthOnce you have an idea on the breed, it is also worth researching their typical health issues. Some breeds are healthier than others and whilst you might wish to choose a certain breed even if it is known for certain health issues, you need to consider if you can afford ongoing cost of medication should your dog need one. A useful website to check health, traits and characteristics of breeds is Dogtime. To help you choose a dog breed, make a list of the breeds you’d prefer and their characteristics based on the questions above. Then determine which breeds will adapt best to you and your family’s way of life. Some people might not want purebred dogs and prefer a mixed breed dog. If this is the case, you can usually find mixed breed dogs at your local dog rescue centre. There the staff should be able to help you pinpoint each puppy’s temperament so you can make the best choice possible. How to Choose a Puppy From a Breeder If you’re at the point where you know what dog breed you’d want, you should think about how to choose the puppy from the breeder. Keep in mind that there are many legitimate puppy breeders that know what they’re doing. But unfortunately, some people use unethical practices when breeding dogs, which can impact the type of puppy you get. So, when you choose a puppy from a breeder, follow the guidelines below to make the best decision possible. Ask to see the mum and dad. If the pup’s mum and dad are healthy, the puppies will be too. So, ask the breeder if you can see the mum and dad up close. Some breeders only have the mum on-site, but you can still ask to see a picture of the dad. If there are any malformations in either, the chances are that they could be genetically passed down to the puppies as well. Look at the living quarters of the puppies. As you look at these quarters, observe whether the puppies have shelter, water, something to keep them warm, and good hygiene. How the puppies live will tell you a lot about the puppies’ breeding practices and health. Be sceptical if a breeder doesn’t want to show you the living quarters. As harsh as it sounds, some breeders put dogs and puppies in cages just to sell one after the other. However, ethical dog breeders will be more than happy to show you where the pups live. Look at the puppy’s physical appearance. As you look at the litter, look at how each puppy appears physically. By looking at the puppy’s physicality, you can tell whether you’ll have long term issues that might cost a fortune to fix or not. So, look at the following: Head: There is a spot on the top of the puppy’s head that is softer than the rest of the head. This spot shouldn’t be larger than a penny. Otherwise, it means the skull might have fractures. Eyes: The puppy’s eyes should be clear and open easily without redness, swelling, or discharge. Ears: The puppy’s ear canals should be dry and odourless. If it is moist, red, and stinky, it could mean that the puppy already has ear infections. Nose: The puppy should breathe easily through the nose without making excessive strenuous noises. The nose can also have slight colourless discharges, which is normal. Mouth: Most puppies’ upper and lower teeth should align, but some might have an underbite specific to the breed, like a bulldog. The puppy’s tongue and gums should be pink and moist and not dry and sticky. Skin: The puppy’s skin shouldn’t be dry, flaking, have fluid-filled bumps, or be red. Coat: The puppy’s coat should be shiny and have no areas of hair loss. See how the litter mates interact with each other. How puppies interact with one another will tell you a lot about their temperament and characteristics. Some puppies might shy away from other pups and keep busy in the corner, while others might engage in roughish play. This part is essential to choosing the puppy from the litter that best suits your lifestyle. Find a puppy with a temperament you like. Each puppy in the litter may have a different temperament than the other. Some might be more shy or timid, while others are more assertive and curious. Think about which temperament you prefer and look for the puppy that’s the closest match to that. Ask the breeder these questions: What health issues do the mum and dad have? The mum and dad’s health history gives an insight into the puppy’s possible health issues. Some conditions can be passed down genetically, while others won’t affect the pup at all. Your breeder could answer these questions. What health prevention or vaccines do the puppies get? Do the puppies get vaccinations and deworming treatments? If so, how often do they get them and will the breeder provide you with proof, like a vaccination car When can we take the puppy home? Puppies can usually go to their new homes at 8-12 weeks. It might be a red flag if a breeder wants to give you the puppy earlier. Puppies learn to be dogs and socialise through interaction with their mother and littermates. Are you a registered breeder? Okay, not all breeders have to be registered necessarily, but a registered breeder will be more likely to do proper breeding practices and provide healthy puppies. The easiest way to do this research is to see the puppies for yourself. Take your time when you do these observations. The more intently you look at each puppy, the environment, and the parents, the better decision you can make on which one to choose. How to Choose a Puppy From a Rescue Centre If you don’t want to get a puppy from a breeder and prefer to adopt one from a rescue centre, there are other guidelines for choosing the right puppy. There are similarities to selecting a pup from a breeder. The difference is that you won’t necessarily be able to meet the parents, see the original living quarters when the puppies were born, or know the exact history of the puppy. Don’t let that stop you, though. Adopting a puppy means you’re giving the home s/he deserves! So, here are things to consider when choosing a puppy from a rescue centre: Visit the puppy at the rescue centre: Again, there is nothing as insightful as seeing where the puppy lives, how s/he reacts with other dogs, and how s/he interacts with you and your family. When you visit the puppy, you can do the same physical appearance checks as when choosing a pup from a breeder. It will help you determine whether the puppy will have long term health issues. Ask about the puppy’s health issues or condition she/he was when coming to the centre initially. Sometimes the centre staff could tell you where the puppies were rescued from, e.g. the streets or a loving home whose dog gave birth, but they couldn’t afford eight puppies. Other times the staff won’t know about the health history or diseases. That’s okay too. As long as you gather as much information as possible, you can choose a puppy wisely. See whether you like the puppy’s temperament during your visit. Play with the puppies you visit. See which one’s temperament and behaviours you gravitate towards the most. It could be as simple as sitting on the floor and seeing which puppy comes to you first. Or it could be the puppy that hovers around you the most. When you see one with a temperament you like, s/he will likely adapt easier to your way of life. See how the puppy interacts with other dogs or puppies. If you have other dogs at home, this step is crucial. If the puppy is aggressive toward other dogs, you might consider getting a different one. How puppies interact with one another tells a lot about how they’ll behave in social situations. Find out what breed the puppy is. It won’t always be easy, but if you can pinpoint the breed, you can research those breeds’ pros and cons. The more you know about a puppy before you get one, the easier both of you will adapt. There are multiple benefits of having a dog in your life, which we have detailed in our Ultimate Guide for First Time Dog Owners. However, these benefits can only be truly enjoyed if you get the right dog. Choosing a puppy is fun-filled and exciting, but getting the right puppy for your family is even more exhilarating. There is nothing quite like getting a pup that effortlessly fits into your lifestyle! So, make this decision for you and your family. Don’t choose a puppy based on a movie you’ve seen or because someone else’s dog seems nice. It might be that those dogs had lots of training before getting to that point. All that matters is whether you and your puppy will go together like peanut butter and jelly!
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Animal Health Certificate: The New Way to Travel to Europe with Your Dog
Summer is well on its way now and we all started to think about holidays! Whilst many of you will have already planned your trips abroad with your dogs, I am sure for many it will be the first time to go to continental Europe with your canine companion(s). Additionally, the rules as well as the low-cost nature of such a trip have changed substantially since the new Brexit rules have come into force. In order to help you all not get caught out, I will share our “winter’s tale” of taking the family and dogs to Europe in the new Covid-19 era and using the new Animal Health Certificate last Christmas. Oh what a joy?! Preparation begins… ….in October 2021. Travel was banned for a long time thanks to Covid, so I got out of the routine of how to do this like a pro. And there were the new Brexit rules too! We were seasoned travellers, regularly crossing into the continent with our dogs and it was always so easy! The long no-travel period and Brexit made me feel as though I no longer knew how to do this simple job! I started researching the government website as well as Defra and eventually had a good idea about it all. Travel requirement to take your dog to an EU country (introducing the Animal Health Certificate) MicrochipThe dogs need to be microchipped (compulsory in the UK in any case). Rabies vaccinationThe dogs need to be vaccinated against rabies. If they have been vaccinated within the last 3 years, you only need a booster. However, if it’s the first time your dog gets vaccinated against rabies, you need to allow 21 days from the date of the vaccination before you travel. Plus, vaccinations cannot be given to dogs under the age of 12 weeks, which means the youngest your dog can be before travelling to the EU first time is 15 weeks of age (12 weeks + 21 days). Animal Health CertificateWithin 10 days of travel take your dogs(s) to receive an Animal Health Certificate from an official veterinarian. When you make the appointment let them know that it is for the purpose of completing the Animal Health Certificate as only authorised vets can complete it (Source: Defra). If your dog is up-to-date with the rabies vaccination, he/she only needs to be present for the vet to confirm his/her identity. The completion of the document can take up to an hour, therefore it is a good idea to ask somebody to accompany you and have the dog(s) outside the surgery until it's all done. It is possible to travel with up to five pets on one certificate but beyond this the paperwork becomes more complicated. The completed Animal Health Certificate is only valid for 10 days from issue for entry into the EU (Source: UK Government) Other important matters to bear in mind: At present, the rabies vaccination details are often copied from an old EU pet passport but it is also a good idea (if one exists) to also carry the original old EU pet passport(s) on a trip even though they are no longer valid due to having been issued in Great Britain. In my experience, it could be helpful in countries like The Netherlands should there be any confusion over the dogs. Depending on your point of entry into the EU, the document is in both English and the agreed language of the point of entry (e.g. if Calais then French, if Rotterdam, then Dutch and so on). If onward travel is to happen within the EU then the document requires presentation at the first point of entry and to be checked alongside the animals. (In my experience no border crossings within the EU are interested in animals and are more focussed on people, vehicles and perhaps Covid issues.) Re-entry into Great Britain on an Animal Health Certificate is limited to 4 months! Beyond this (whilst there are options) it becomes very a different “box of frogs”. One possibility is to keep any old EU Pet Passport issued prior to the start of 2021 up to date. It does appear that it is valid for re-entry into the UK if up to date. You just cannot travel into the EU with it! Confusing?! YES! The next time I am abroad I will ask about this when returning and update you as it does seem confusing. The cost of an Animal Health Certificate varies at it is set by the vets. It is typically in the range of £150 to £250 with extra charges for extra dogs on the same certificate. The cost of rabies injections (if not up to date) along with any necessary worming treatments is of course extra. Yes, it is much more than the old EU Pet Passport that cost around £60 and was valid for the life of the dog! Additionally, the Animal Health Certificate is only valid for one trip! Yep! If you have the ability, it is possible to avoid the Animal Health Certificate by having an EU dog passport from an EU country. Entry to GB is acceptable for dogs with an EU pet passport issued in the EU and of course return to the EU is allowed. Be aware though that most EU countries require a rabies booster every year rather than every three years in the UK. Confused? Yes – it’s tricky. Now that we know the ‘short’ list of what we need to travel to an EU country, let’s see what happened to us last Christmas… The journey begins... The car was packed and prepared for a possible treacherous long drive across Europe. The two dogs were secure in the back of the car complete with bedding, food, water, bowls, leads, toys, the list goes on! Finally, school finished too so little boy got picked up and we were ready to roll! France was closing its borders to non-essential travellers at 11pm and time was of the essence. Yes, it was the days of the start of the Omicron variant and Europe was slowly closing up yet again to UK travellers. Not knowing if we would make it and definitely not sure how the requirements would be for travelling back in January, we set off for Hungary. To add to the suspense, our PCR test results were still to arrive by email but we hopefully had everything else! Vaccination documents, dog documents, passports, tickets, vehicle documents, hotel bookings, the list gets longer and longer! Needless to say, we got held up by traffic on the M25! Eventually we got to the Channel Tunnel, but guess what; the PCR results were still nowhere! We rang them but they couldn’t help as they had too many to deal with! We managed to check in for the crossing and then had to wait patiently for the PCR results. Fortunately, they arrived before the French closed their border and we set off to France. We overnighted in a pet friendly French hotel we are familiar with close to Strasbourg. The next day was a LONG drive across Germany, Austria and then East Hungary (within 60 miles of the Ukrainian border). Frequent stopping for food, walks, treats, and the usual necessary things all make such days longer, yet more enjoyable. Fortunately, the weather was good, and we did not experience any snow which can make progress slow, especially on the heights of the German/Austrian border region. The night was drawing in and we decided to drive through Budapest to enjoy the Christmas lights by the Danube River and all the city’s bridges. It was truly a special and spectacular sight and one our little boy says he would remember forever. (The dogs slept through it all). Europe just loves Christmas, and really knows how to make it look and feel magical. Budapest with its stunning festive lights, traditional markets, romantic bridges is truly a fabulous place worth visiting. There were no border checks on any of this drive beyond the EU entry so at least that did not add to the time taken. Of course, there were registration requirements due to Covid in Germany if you wanted to eat in a restaurant or even motorway services and Austria were particularly strict if you were purely “transiting” the country. Eventually we arrived very late at our tiny holiday place in the East of Hungary by a few frozen lakes where we would spend Christmas and New Year. It was idyllic and so great to be there. We were all together including our two lovely dogs. The stress, the uncertainty and the journey had all paid off and we were settled far from our usual daily lives in a very quiet location. As for if and how we would return to the UK…. Well if you want a guarantee in life – buy an electric kettle as my husband says! Seeing the dogs every day was lovely and much better than the worry of them being in some cold kennels without their favourite humans and chews! We were all settled in our little holiday cottage by the lake in this tranquil corner of the world feeling truly blessed. The beauty and wonders didn’t end there as on Christmas Day we were woken to a beautiful blanket of snow! We haven’t had White Christmas for years! It was truly mesmerising and beautiful and we were getting our boots and coats on in no time to have our first snow-ball fight! There is something special and wonderful about spending Christmas in Europe, especially in this quite, sleepy little village. Somehow the Europeans manage to capture all the love, joy, beauty that surrounds Christmas. The days were spent with lots of laughter, snow fight, sledging, food and of course winter walks with the furry friends. It is just amazing how our woofers are as happy in temperatures of -5C as they can be in 25C on a walk. All good things come to an end... Our time was coming to an end slowly, so yet again we were checking the forever-changing travel requirements. The major worries were the time that had to elapse or not elapse for the various tests and needs for both the dogs and ourselves. The dogs had to be presented to a local vet for tape-worm treatment and the information was entered onto the Animal Health Certificate. Knowing the cost of this in France can be heading towards €100 per dog we found the equivalent of £10 for two dogs very reasonable indeed. Once administered that meant we had to be in Calais for the return tunnel crossing within 120 hours. However, overnighting near Strasbourg again meant we could not do our Covid lateral flow tests and report the results until the morning we expected to cross. We had started one timer but had another to start with the lateral flows which, if they were positive would mean we were stuck in France and unable to travel anywhere. Thankfully, all were clear and we set off. Next stop was the Channel tunnel at Calais, where all documents were checked and we were “good to go”. Over the years I have seen many people with problems at Calais and having to go find a local vet for errors in paperwork, so it's definitely worthwhile to keep a close watch on all details that are entered on paperwork for readability and accuracy by vets. Almost twenty days after leaving, we were back home having had a great relaxing quiet time as a family in the middle of nowhere with some snow. Hopefully this tale shows that even with winter weather and travel restrictions due to Covid, travelling to the EU with your dog is relatively straightforward if you just follow the steps and are willing to pay a lot more than it used to be. Animal Health Certificate requirement - SUMMARY: Be up to date on rabies vaccinations. If not, allow for a minimum of 21 days from the date of the vaccination before travelling to the EU. Make an appointment (well in advance) with a vet authorised to complete the necessary checks and issue the Animal Health Certificate. The appointment will last around an hour. The appointment cannot be more than 10 days before you enter the EU. Make sure the form is in the language of the intended first point of entry to the EU. Your vet will do this but please double-check it. On arrival at the first point of entry in the EU, have the form checked with the dogs if travel beyond the country of the first point of entry is intended. Between 24 hours and 120 hours prior to re-entry to Great Britain the dog(s) require tapeworm treatment. On our trip the details of this treatment were entered onto Page 4 of the Animal Health Certificate. This does look like where if you were travelling into Finland, Norway, Ireland, Northern Ireland or Malta the tapeworm treatment would appear but it is the correct place for re-entry to Great Britain too. Remember the document only lasts for 4 months from the date of issue for returning your dog to the UK. Remember that every time you make a trip to Europe you need a new Animal Health Certificate.
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Diabetes in Dogs
Diabetes in Dogs is on the rise, similarly to diabetes in humans. Type 2 diabetes has been called the ‘Black Death of the 21st century’ due to its exponential global spread and growth and its devastating health impacts. Whilst the general growth and aging of the population are contributing factors, the global obesity epidemic is the key factor driving the expansion worldwide. Dogs, in a way, mimic their owners’ lifestyles and as such their ‘lifestyles’ are getting more Westernised, which contributes to the higher prevalence of diabetes in dogs. Whilst it is entirely possible for a dog with diabetes to have a healthy, long life, it does require a lot of commitment and hard work as well as thousands of pounds over the dog's lifetime. Diabetes Mellitus is a metabolic condition, which results in elevated blood sugar level (hyperglycaemia) due to either lack of insulin production or being unable to effectively use the insulin produced, known as insulin resistance (Diabetes UK). There are two main types of diabetes: Type 1 (insulin-deficiency diabetes), which is an autoimmune disease characterised by the inability to produce insulin due to damaged beta cells within the pancreas; and Type 2 (insulin-resistant diabetes) is a result of reduced responsiveness to insulin or the pancreatic cells not functioning properly. Type 2 diabetes is also linked to lifestyle factors, such as being obese and leading a sedentary lifestyle. Common risk factors for developing diabetes in dogs: unhealthy diet obesity (often the result of the above point) genetics - studies have shown that pure-breeds and mixed-breeds have equal chance of getting diabetes. However, some breeds have increased risk of developing diabetes. These include: Golden- and Labrador Retrievers German Shepherds Daschunds Doberman Cocker Spaniels Toy Poodles Pomeranians Fox Terriers and Beagles steroid treatments - long term use of steroids increases the risk of diabetes unspayed female dogs are twice as likely to suffer from diabetes than male dogs chronic pancreatitis Diabetes in dogs can also be linked to an autoimmune disease or even a viral infection. In some instances diabetes can develop from pancreatitis. Signs & symptoms of diabetes in dogs: increased thirst - you might notice your dog drinking a lot more frequent urination - your dog might ask to be let outside more frequently tiredness and lack of energy eye- and vision problems weight loss, which can happen despite eating the same amount of food increased susceptibility to urinary infections If you suspect that your dogs has diabetes, make an appointment with your vet, who will take either a urine or blood sample to get a diagnosis. Complications If diabetes is left untreated, it can lead to serious consequences affecting your dog's life and health. The most common ones include: Cataracts, which aren't painful but they eventually lead to vision loss Liver problems Kidney failure Ketoacidosis is a serious problem that can happen in dogs with diabetes if their body starts to run out of insulin. When this happens, harmful substances called ketones build up in the body, which can be life-threatening if it's not treated quickly. Signs and symptoms include fast breathing, vomiting, disorientation, sweet smelling breath and loss of consciousness Traditional treatment of dog diabetes The orthodox treatment includes insulin injections, controlled feeding and exercise regime. The most common orthodox treatment is the insulin injection, which has to be administered daily. Whilst most owners manage to successfully do this after a while; initial problems can include: injecting too much or too little insulin insulin may squirt out as you inject side effects can make your dog eat less or go the other way and eat too much. Some dogs might even resort to stealing some extra food. Vomiting is another common side effect Whilst your vet might advise you to go down the traditional treatment method, diabetes can be treated naturally as well. Even if you wish to go down the traditional treatment method, taking on board the natural treatment will be beneficial and it is worth discussing with your vet. How to treat diabetes in dogs naturally? Focusing on diet is central in treating, as well as preventing diabetes. Evidence suggests that being slim and reducing belly fat are good ways to prevent diabetes. Calorie restrictive diets therefore have been central in weight-loss management. However, evidence suggests that they only work short-term and eventually the lost pounds are regained. In order to avoid the blood sugar spikes, it is recommended to feed more frequent but smaller meals in a day. Three smaller meals a day should give a balanced and stable level of blood glucose throughout the day. A diet high in fibre is essential as again it stabilises the blood sugar level as fibre takes longer for the body to break down and release energy from. Fruit and vegetables are high in fibre along with complex carbohydrates. Complex carbohydrates are acceptable for dogs and should be included in the diet in small quantities. In addition to fruit and vegetables, this also includes legumes (beans, lentils) and brown rice. Fruit and veg are high in antioxidants, vitamins and minerals which will support your dog’s immune system as well. Should you wish to know more about which veg are the most beneficial, please read Vegetable for Dogs. In many of our articles, I've talked about the importance of including essential fatty acids (EFAs), specifically Omega 3 in the diet, which stands true for treating diabetes as well. Omega 3 has been shown to enhance glucose metabolism as well as prevent the risk of developing heart problems. Whilst overall dietary fat should be reduced, the importance is on reducing saturated fat whilst maintaining or increasing EFAs in the diet. As such, it’s a good idea to serve oily fish 2-3 times a week. Again don’t need to have a lot, but a small amount of tinned mackerel, sardines, salmon or herring as a food topper would do wonders to your dog’s health. You will also notice shinier coat, less itching and more energy. Even if you have opted for the orthodox medical treatment, your vet will advise you to make lifestyle changes along the natural treatment method. Additionally, the natural treatment plan will help you prevent diabetes, which will save you lot of money and hard work. Diabetes is a life-long condition in most cases. However, with appropriate management your dog can have a happy and long life.
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Can Dogs Eat Strawberries?
Everything you need to know about strawberries for dogs The weather is finally getting a little warmer and we can all enjoy some lovely walks with our woofers. The better weather is also bringing in some delicious fruits, such as strawberries. Venturing out on strawberry picking is a favourite activity here in the UK. This also makes many of us wonder if the delicious strawberries could be shared with our fur-babies. Strawberries could easily be referred to as superfoods as they are full of vitamins and nutrients! As such, the simply answer is YES they can, what more they absolutely should! Health benefits of strawberries for dogs: Supports healthy heartBerries are rich in a compound called, anthocyanins, which support heart health both in humans and dogs. Anthocyanins are found in the skin of fruit and the darker the skin is, the richer source of this compound the fruit is. Whilst strawberries are not the darkest berries, they contain nearly 30 different anthocyanins! (blackberries are even more nutrient-dense so again if your dog enjoy them, let him/her have them) Helps digestionStrawberries are a rich source of fibre. Fibre is essential to maintain regular bowel movements and to help digestion. Possible cancer preventionStrawberries are rich in Vitamin C, which is an important antioxidant. Cancer formation and progression is linked to oxidative stress as well as chronic inflammation. Several animal studies have shown that regular consumption of strawberries inhibits tumour formation (Berry fruits for cancer prevention; source: Pubmed). Supports immune and skin healthStrawberries are a good source of folate (aka vitamin B9), which is important for cell function and the production of red blood cells. Blood sugar regulationAs strawberries are rich in fibre, vitamin C and they improve the lipid profile of the blood by lowering LDL cholesterol and therefore reducing overall cholesterol. Strawberries slow down blood sugar spikes (caused by high sugar food - sugar can be found in some dog food and treats!) and as such contribute to the prevention of Type 2 diabetes, which is very common in dogs. How many to give a dog? As with everything else in life, moderation is key. Sharing the odd 1-2 strawberries with your dog is perfectly OK and there is no need for more. Strawberries should be considered a treat, and just like you are unlikely to have strawberries every day, you shouldn’t give it to your dog either. Once or twice a week or even once in a fortnight is sufficient. Remember, there are many great fruits and veg with numerous health benefits and we want to rotate them, instead of giving all of them every day. Can puppies have strawberries? Yes, they can, just make sure you either smash them or cut them into smaller pieces so that they cannot cause choking hazard. Keep in mind that it is a treat. How should I give them to my dog? The best way is to give it raw, (either cut/chopped depending on the dog’s age or smashed). The raw fruit is higher in all the nutrients, some of which get lost during cooking/heating/freeze-drying process. You could also make it into a smoothie and pour about 100ml in your dog’s bowl. Other articles that might be of interest to you, should you wish to give even more health boost to your dog include Vegetables for Dogs or Nutrition for Dogs. So - Can dogs eat strawberries? The simple answer is YES! Strawberries are an excellent choice both for your dog and yourself! They are: rich in vitamins, minerals and plant compounds giving you a wide range of health benefits, such as healthy heart, skin, immune system, digestion and possible cancer prevention. low in calories, fat-free high in water and fibre, which optimise intestinal function and prevent constipation
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Dog Chewing - Health Benefits and Importance
Why is Chewing Important and Beneficial for Dogs? We all know that chewing is a completely natural activity of dogs throughout their lives. Most of us can relate to those little land-sharks (aka puppies) trying to ease their teething pain by chomping on our furniture, leather shoes or our hands. Most dog-owners buy several toys and chews to help their fur-babies through this less than pleasant stage, which lasts a couple of months. However, encouraging your dog to chew shouldn’t be limited to the teething phase only as regular chewing has plenty of benefits. Health Benefits of Regular Dog Chewing Relieves teething pain Reduces boredom Reduces anxiety & frustration Provides mental stimulation Prevents destructive behaviour Removes plaques and tartar from the teeth Keeps jaws strong & healthy preventing gum disease Keeps away bad breath Burns excess energy Helps puppies explore the world Chewing is often regarded as a negative behaviour due to its potentially destructive nature. However, as the list above shows it’s everything but negative! The important thing to bear in mind is to re-direct that behaviour to safe and enjoyable chews. Select your chews wisely Before purchasing any chews (be it natural edible chews or toys), it is important that you consider the size of your dog, his chewing habits, bite strength and of course what he/she likes to chomp on. You want to get something safe and enjoyable for your dog. Please also bear in mind the points below: Any chews or even toys can cause choking or blockages, therefore it is essential to always supervise your dog, whilst she/he is having a good old chomp Please also remember that no dog toy is indestructible and if you have a vigorous chewer on your hand, you might be better off keeping away from toys and opt for natural chews instead Don’t give fresh bones too often as they can cause constipation (in some dogs it can cause diarrhoea too) When it comes to bones, choose raw or air-dried and not cooked or roasted as those can splinter puncturing the oesophagus, stomach or intestines. Beef knuckle or shin bones are often roasted! Safe dog chews Chomper boxes - choose from Puppy; Power; Adult; Mighty; Easy; Sensitive; Chubby and Ultimate Buffalo skin - long lasting and low-odour chew, full of natural protein, with no preservatives (suitable from 12 weeks+) Pizzles - long-lasting, excellent dental chews which are loved by even the fussiest dogs (suitable from 12 weeks+) Buffalo horn - Long-lasting chew which can be used as natural KONGs. Ours have an open end at both end preventing potential suffocation and keeping it more hygienic (suitable from 12 weeks+) Ostrich bones - highly nutritious and a super safe delicacy. A gently air dried, non-splintering bone, providing a single source of protein. It is the perfect way to entertain your dog in the house or garden whilst also keeping your dog’s chompers clean. A fantastic, less messy alternative to raw bone options. The bonus is that ostrich bone is otally odourless as well. (suitable from 12 weeks +) Large Deer Leg (there is a small one in the Mighty Chomper Box). Deer legs are excellent, long-lasting chews for dogs. Deer legs are suitable for dogs with sensitivities or allergies as they are hypoallergenic treats. Beef tails – we have the whole range (normal, Jumbo; Supersized; Meaty) and all of them are excellent dental chews Antlers and split antlers – Naturally shed antlers make fantastic dog chews because they are totally natural, sustainable, long lasting, provide good minerals and are odourless to humans (suitable from 8 weeks+) XL pig ears – All dogs love pig ears and these big boys will keep your dog entertained for a while. The Porky Delights is a good alternative if you want smaller ears and your dog is a fan of pork snouts and pork bites (show me a dog who isn’t) Toys for chewing There are many toys on the market claiming to be indestructible but there is no such thing! There are many, which are made to last and withstand powerful chomping but if you do have a dog that destroys all toys, I’d advise you to save your money and focus on the edible chews instead. However, if your dog loves toys and can be trusted with them, the toys below are firm favourites: Duraspikes toys - these are quite sturdy and made from natural canvas Hugglehounds toys - sturdy and very cute toys Gigwi tug-of-war duck or crocodile Polar bear Chew Tuff bone Jelly Bone Breathe right stick How often should I give my dog chews? You can give your dog chews daily or every other day and you should give some hard, dental chews at least twice a week so that any tartar can be removed and the jaws and gums get some good exercise. How often you give your dog chews really depends on the circumstances but as noted above giving some every day or other day is great and if your pup looks bored, you can get his/her mind stimulated by some chewing or doing some scent work whereby you hide some treats or chews in the house and your pooch has to sniff it out. If you think you have given your dog too many in a day, please reduce his/her food intake to compensate for it. Chews or treats are also essential for rewarding good behaviour, whether it's teaching your pooch to sit, stay, lie down, etc., albeit for frequent rewards, it's better to use little treats like our Training Treats. If you need some step-by-step guide to help your training, please read the last chapter of our Ultimate Guide for First Time Dog Owners. Summary Any dogs should be encouraged to chew on a regular basis for all the health benefits discussed above. Once dental health problems start, it is very pricey and intrusive for your dog; so prevention is much better. When it comes to edible chews, your best friends are raw bones and 100% air-dried natural chews and treats. Finally, don’t forget to supervise your dog and always provide them with fresh water.
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Treating Dog Arthritis and Joint Problems Naturally
The Natural Approach to Arthritis in Dogs Arthritis is a common condition that causes pain in the weight-bearing, larger joints such as hips and knees. It is characterised by worsening stiffness and limited mobility. It is more common in elderly dogs, however, it can affect younger dogs too, especially after an injury. What causes dog arthritis and joint problems? Age Genes; can be an inherited condition Muscle weakness Obesity - considered a cause as well as a mediator which will worsen the condition Wear & Tear of the joints from overuse Autoimmune disease and prolonged inflammation Injury to the joint - a torn ligament or an infected wound can damage the joint and cause chronic inflammation which subsequently causes further joint damage. How to spot arthritis in your dog? Symptoms of arthritis in dogs Limping Difficulty getting up Morning stiffness, which gradually eases during the day Discomfort when walking, sitting or getting up Licking potentially painful areas Certain breeds are more prone to suffer from hip or elbow dysplasia, which can be a predisposing condition for dog arthritis. Such breeds include golden and labrador retrievers, german shepherds, rottweilers and generally larger breeds. Whilst arthritis is not curable, it is treatable and your dog can have a quality life. However, like with many conditions, prevention is better. Whilst the general treatment relies on medication in the form of steroids, there is a natural approach you can take and actually prevention and treatment methods are one and the same in the holistic world. How to prevent and treat a dog's arthritis naturally? Regular exercise Exercise is key to keep your dog active, healthy and to prevent obesity. Exercise strengthens the muscles, which is essential to support the joints. If the muscles are not strong enough, the joint takes over supporting the dog’s weight, which puts too much pressure on them; eventually causing damage. Two 30-minute walks a day are recommended to protect the joints. Whilst you can give your dog more, please bear in mind that over-exercising your dog is just as damaging as under-exercising them. A diet rich in anti-inflammatory compounds and antioxidants For a human, my first advice would be to have plenty of rainbow coloured vegetables and fruit in the diet with oily fish, nuts and seeds. Whilst it might seem ’funny’ to have this advice for a dog, it stands true and relevant. We just have to bear in mind that dogs do not need to eat 10 portions of vegetables a day! Eating the rainbow of vegetables and fruit is essential as the more colours, the more phytonutrients, which are essential to prevent diseases and keep us and dogs in tip-top condition. Choose from sweet potatoes, pumpkin, strawberries, blueberries, broccoli, peppers, courgettes, spinach. For more advice on best vegetables for dogs, please read the article Vegetables for Dogs. Keep your dog lean There are two reasons why you want to keep your dog lean. Firstly, overweight dogs simply weigh more, which puts extra pressure on the joints. Secondly, obesity and inflammation go hand in hand. Whilst it is not fully understood yet how obesity triggers inflammation, we know that inflammation caused by obesity can become chronic leading to serious health problems, one of which can be arthritis. Now, you might have noticed that I didn't mention dog joint Supplements. There is a very good reason for this and that is I believe in providing the body (be it human or dog) with what it needs in the most natural and recognisable way. It is easier, cheaper and works better. Synthetic supplements will never achieve what wholefood can and that is because in food, things works synergistically and not in isolation. Take, for instance tomato. Tomatoes are rich in lycopene, which supports heart health, lowers blood pressure, cholesterol, etc. and as such a synthetic supplement would have this as the key ingredient. However, tomatoes also have vitamin E, B, potassium, flavonoids, lutein, zeaxhantin, etc. and I believe it's the power of all these key compounds working together which exhibit health benefits. There has also been many examples of supplement companies not doing things the right way or sourcing their ingredients in a sustainable way, especially when it comes to fish oil. There are certainly good players but that means having to pay a lot more for a good pill! I don't know about you but I'd much rather include some sardines, mackerel, salmon or sprats in the diet (you only have to do it twice a week to get sufficient omega 3 in the diet) as well as the mentioned fruit and vegetables. Of course pet supplements companies would like you to think otherwise; after all it's a multi-billion industry. The global pet supplements market reached USD 1.47 billion in 2020 and is forecast to reach over USD 2.32 billion by 2028! (Source: Grand View Research) There are certain compounds that do help both in preventing and treating arthritis in addition to anti-inflammatory diet and exercise, and these are: Glucosamine and Chondroitin - they are essential for joint health and to repair cartilage inside the joints. An easy way to have them in the diet is to treat your dog to Trachea, Chicken feet, Duck necks and Duck feet as they are all rich in them. Turmeric - make your golden paste, see recipe below. A small teaspoon a day can be added to food. SUMMARY The treatment of arthritis has to start with prevention Provide your dog with at least two 30 minute exercises a day Keep them on the lean side Supplement their diet with steamed, rainbow coloured veg and fruit (think of berries) Top their food with oily fish twice a week. Choose from Salmon, Mackerel, Anchovies, Sardines, Herring and Sprats. Tinned fish is perfectly fine. Treat them to glucosamine and chondroitin rich treats such as Duck Neck, Trachea, Chicken feet and Duck feet Make Golden paste and put some on their food daily.
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Separation Anxiety in Dogs
The Anxiety of Isolation Separation anxiety is quite well-known to some owners. Here’s a scenario too many dog owners are familiar with: you come home after a hard day of work to find your curtains in shreds, the walls stripped to their panties, and your puppy sheepishly wagging its tail. Was this just poor management on your part? You were sure you closed the crate's door properly, but somehow that darn Devil made its way out, AGAIN! If this is the case, it’s more likely to be something a lot more serious, something many of us dog lovers dread: separation anxiety. Separation anxiety is a crippling behavioural disorder in dogs. It's characterised by a series of intense behaviours triggered by the departure of their owner. It can include anything from howling and barking, to defecating, self-mutilation, and the destruction of anything, be it expensive or not. Unfortunately, it’s become one of the most common behavioural issues reported in pups. So, what can we do? The well-agreed answer amongst experts is prevention. Treatment is extremely difficult (although not impossible) and requires a lot of patience and commitment, so prevention is your best first step. You should focus on isolation exercises during the first few months of their life. Before they learn to come, sit, and roll over, they need to learn how to be alone. I love food puzzles for this. Fill a Cow hoof or a Kong with some of peanut butter, pate, yoghurt with fruit or pate and freeze it overnight. Freezing ensures the treats take a longer to finish, allowing you to prolong the exercise. Offer your pup the hoof or Kong and wait for them to get super invested. We’re talking lip licking, tail wagging, and complete focus. Quietly and without any fan fair, step out of sight. Wait just a few seconds before returning. The key to training any behaviour is lots of repetitions that start small and build gradually. If your pup is insistent on following you, place them in a contained area (a crate, x-pen, or even tethered). Everything about your behaviour needs to be nonchalant. No cooing, awhing, or squealing praise for your pup. Just leave and return. Leave and return. Leave and return. For the first 6 months of a puppies’ life, they should never be left alone for long stretches of time. A good rule of thumb is an hour per month of age, so 3 hours for a 3-month-old. Before you go, they should be well exercised and ready for rest. Great options are a game, training session, or a sniff walk. They also need to have something to do while you’re gone, they can’t just be expected to sit in the dark and wait. I like to leave some soft chew toys for them to keep busy. You can also play calming music to help your pup be relaxed and happy while you’re away. Or simply leave the radio or telly on. When you leave and again when you return, you should keep your behaviour calm. The departure should be uneventful, and the greeting short and sweet. A recent study found that playing or feeding your dog within 30 minutes of arrival greatly increased their likelihood of separation anxiety. A quick pet and a pee break are the best way to greet them, and once they’ve settled you can play to your heart’s content. Now if you’ve missed the boat on prevention and their anxiety is full blown, the best advice I can give you is to seek a professional. I like to compare it to anxiety in children. We would never expect a parent to deal with their child’s disorder without the help of a therapist, so why do we expect dog parents to fix their fur-babies anxiety on their own? Along with a training plan, it’s likely your pup will also need the help of medication. Even in humans, therapy often works best in conjunction with medication, so let’s not expect more from our dogs than we expect from ourselves. A veterinary behaviourist is the safest route to go. Not only can they come up with an awesome training plan but they can also prescribe the best medications to go in hand. Recovery is possible. A recent study found that 64% of the dogs treated for separation anxiety were successful. They did see a lack of compliance from some parents which may coincide with many of the unsuccessful cases. Its also important to note that progress can be slow. You are trying to change an association that has been built over time. It may seem like nothing is happening until one day it is. Do not lose hope. Make sure to follow through with every exercise your trainer gives you, even if it feels redundant. At the end of the day, separation anxiety is a common problem that will most likely continue to increase. Its important we get a head start with our puppies, being sure to teach them to be alone, but also to not over-isolate them. When faced with a more serious problem, there is no shame in asking for help from a professional. You’re doing what is best for you, for your pup, and every expensive thing in your house. N.B. This post has been written by the lovely, Megan Sheil, who is a professional dog-trainer with 7 years of experience working with animals in every field from horse racing, dog training, and even avian hospitals. You can follow her dog adventures on Instagram: @sheil.train or book a free consult through her website: www.sheiltrain.com
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How to Toilet Train a Puppy
Toilet training (or potty training) a puppy may be one of the most important things you do with your new arrival. Everyone—whether two- or four-legged—is happier when puppy knows the rules of where and when to go potty. As you work on potty training for a puppy, keep in mind that it’s natural for a puppy to view the whole world as one giant potty area. The keys to teaching your puppy where to take potty breaks are regular outings, proper management, appropriate supervision and positive reinforcement. (Punishment has no place in potty training!) It is a process that takes both time and patience, but you and your puppy can master this important task. How long does it take to toilet train a puppy? That largely depends on how consistent you are and how long your puppy can hold it. (Small breed puppies typically have a harder time holding it than large breed puppies, for example.) Some dogs get it within a week, but personally I think two-three weeks is more of a reasonable exception, but it can take longer, especially with male dogs (my beagle boy was not reliable until 18 months or so!). As noted before, it largely depends on how consistent you are; if you are not around enough to notice the accidents when they happen, it will take longer for your puppy to understand the rules. Things you need for Potty Training a Puppy Collar or harness Hands-free 3-4 foot non-retractable leash 15-foot non-retractable leash Newspaper or Cardboard flattened Tasty small-sized treats Carpet cleaner for pet stains Mops and floor cleaner Lots of love! Proper management and supervision are crucial to successful house training. Until your puppy is fully house trained, make sure your puppy is always either managed or supervised. By management I mean either a confined space in the house where you don’t mind him to go or crate. If you are going to crate train your puppy, make sure the puppy is comfortable in the crate. It should be just big enough for your puppy to turn around and lie down, but not much larger. That way, the puppy can stretch out a little, but they can’t potty in the corner and then snooze comfortably in another corner. There are many benefits to crate-training your puppy and it certainly makes house-training much easier as well. If you'd like to know more about these, please visit the relevant section in our Ultimate Guide for First Time Dog Owners. Pottying that happens outside is an opportunity for positive reinforcement for going in the right place, and the more often you reinforce appropriate pottying, the faster your puppy will be house trained. It’s still important to keep an eye on the puppy, though, so you know if the puppy has pottied or not. How can I tell if my pup wants to go to the toilet? There are a couple of classic signs to watch out for, such as your pup looking around the room or sniffing and circling certain areas, particularly the floor or near the door they would usually use to visit the garden. Steps to house-train a puppy Take your puppy out at least once every 30 minutesTake your puppy out on a lead, which will help your puppy learn to potty on a lead in general, which is useful since you’ll probably want your dog to potty on walks at some point. It also keeps the puppy from running around and getting distracted by all the interesting things around them. Give your puppy 5 minutes, watching the whole time to see if the puppy pees or poops.Stand still in one spot, in an area where it’s OK for your puppy to potty. Quietly watch the puppy. By standing still, you keep the puppy in a small enough area that they will get bored with exploring fairly quickly and focus on pottying faster. By keeping quiet, you help your puppy stay focused on pottying, instead of interacting with you. Praise and offer a treat if the puppy pees or poops outside within 5 minutes.Wait until the puppy has finished pottying. You don’t want to interrupt the puppy and have them finish that potty indoors! As soon as you’re sure the puppy is done pottying, offer praise and hand them a tasty treat. NOTE: If puppy does not pee or poop within five minutes, that’s OK. Take your puppy back inside for 10 to 20 minutes. After 10 or 20 minutes, go back to Step 1. After the puppy pees or poops, give the puppy off-lead fun time.Fun time can take place outdoors if it’s a safe area to be off lead (and if your puppy likes being outdoors), or indoors under supervision if outdoors is not an option (or if your puppy doesn’t want to stay outdoors). Giving your puppy off-lead fun time once the puppy pees or poops teaches the puppy that pottying leads to more fun. Most importantly, avoid the common mistake of confining the puppy right after they potty. If you bring the puppy back to their confinement area right after a successful mission, they learn that pottying ends the fun. Then they may start to wait longer and longer to potty, which is the opposite of what you want, right? Repeat these steps throughout the day.Give your puppy lots of chances to potty in an appropriate potty area. Then use positive reinforcement (treats, play, praise) to encourage your puppy to keep pottying in those areas. The more times your puppy gets it right (and the fewer times your puppy has an accident), the faster your puppy will learn the routine. In addition to regular 30-minute potty breaks, take your puppy to the potty area at these likely potty times: After eating After drinking After 5-10 minutes of play or other vigorous activity Immediately after waking up from a nap The importance of feeding schedule One good way to get toilet-training under control is to put your puppy on a feeding schedule. In addition to pottying right after eating, many puppies potty again some regular period of time after eating. If you note a) when you feed your puppy and b) when your puppy potties between meals, you can start to find patterns. Use your notes to make sure your puppy always goes out to a potty area at the right times after eating. With a feeding schedule, you give your puppy regular meals, at regular times, rather than leaving the food bowl out all the time. Fixed meal times make it easier to set up a schedule of potty breaks. The right feeding schedule depends on age, size and what suits you most. However, up to the age of 6 months, it’s advisable to feed your puppy 3 times a day. What if my puppy potties in the wrong place? If you see your puppy having an accident, calmly take the puppy outside and then praise and offer a treat for going in the right place. Fight the urge to yell or scold! Punishing your puppy, whether that’s by yelling and scolding or pushing the puppy’s nose into the urine, will not help. Punishing your puppy usually teaches them to pee and poop where you can’t see them. In other words, they won’t stop doing it in the house; they’ll just hide before they do their business. This is because puppies often misinterpret punishment to mean they shouldn't potty in front of you. The nuance that the punishment was about pottying indoors may be totally lost on them. Clean up past accidents thoroughly The odour from past accidents is like a “restroom” sign for your dog. Identify the spot and use a simple mix of water and white vinegar (50:50). Do not use bleach as it has ammonia in, which is also found in urine! After you clean, get on your hands and knees and sniff the area to make sure the smell is gone. You may also want to sniff other areas, just in case—you’d be amazed how many “missed” pee spots I’ve found this way! Cheat Sheet Take your puppy to a potty area (outdoors or indoors) on a lead at least once every 30 minutes while you are home and awake. At night, one or two outings are enough for most puppies. Stand still and quietly watch to see if the puppy pees or poops. Praise and offer a treat as soon as the puppy finished its business. If the puppy does not do anything, that’s OK—take the puppy back inside for 10 to 20 minutes, and then outside again. After the puppy pees or poops, play with the puppy outdoors, or give puppy up to 15 minutes of carefully supervised time in the house (whichever the puppy prefers). Repeat these steps throughout the day.
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Your Puppy's First Night at Home
How to survive your puppy's first night at home? Getting a new puppy is truly one of life’s greatest moments. Who could resist those adorable eyes, constantly wagging tail, floppy ears, the whining and crying on the first night….. did I just say crying?! Yes, many puppies struggle with the first night in their new homes, as it is all unfamiliar and they are no longer with their mum and siblings. As a result, the first few nights can be very stressful for both puppy and human. Your puppy will feel lonely and will probably demonstrate this by whining. However, it doesn’t have to be! In this article we share with you some helpful tips that should make it more enjoyable. However, before you consider the first night, make sure that you have prepared both yourself and your home and garden for the arrival of your new puppy. Please visit our Ultimate Guide for First Time Dog Owners, which details all the things you need to bear in mind for your pooch's safety. You want to get the first day right, as it plays a part on how easy (or not) the night will be. Keep it all calmYour house will be full of new smells, sounds, people, which is stressful. However, by keeping it all calm you can massively reduce your pup’s anxiety. If you have children, talk to them about trying to be calm and letting the puppy make friends at his pace. Show them your gardenAs soon as you get home, take your little fluff-ball outside as he will likely need to go to the toilet and you can show him where you’d like him to regularly go. Start using a command that you want him to associate with relieving himself. Give him 10-15 minutes. The right sized sleeping area Whether you decide to use a crate or bed or both make sure it is nice and snug. With regards to crates, it’s wise to get a big one which will suit your adult dog but opt for one that can be adjusted to a smaller size. You don’t want a big crate as then the puppy would use one corner of it as a toilet. Put either some soft blankets in it or use a dog bed so that your puppy can be cozy. Some soft, cuddly toys should also be placed in the crate. Our favourite is the Polar Bear, which is super-soft and cute and of a good size. The best place for the sleeping areaMany people will say that the right area would be your bedroom. Personally, I disagree unless you are willing to let your dog ALWAYS sleep in your bedroom. If not, then do not start there as after a few weeks you would have to introduce your puppy to a new situation, which is stressful. If you are OK with your puppy sleeping in your bedroom for the rest of his life, then go ahead but do not let your puppy go to bed with you as that will form an undesirable habit. (N.B. you might be single and think it is OK for your puppy to be in your bedroom, but you will eventually have a partner who might not like the idea but it will be very tricky to get your dog out of the bedroom if he always slept there) Another reason why I’m not a fan of dogs in the bedroom is that I believe that dogs in general sleep sounder if not in the close presence of their humans as with any movement or noise we make in the night we can alert our dogs. Choose a warm area in your house that you will be happy for your dog to sleep for the rest of his life. We’ve always had the crate next to the radiator in the dining room, which is under our bedroom so we could listen out to sounds and intervene if necessary. If your puppy whines, barks or cries certainly offer some assurance that someone is about and they are not isolated. However, there is a fine line between being there for your puppy to see or becoming your puppy’s sleep comforter. Ensure puppy has had some mental stimulation and company throughout the day as well as the advised amount of physical exercise for your puppy’s age. Give your puppy a stuffed dog toy to snuggle with. If you can you could introduce your puppy to a toy whilst he is with his littermates and get all the familiar smells on it and use this in his crate. However, bear in mind that sosme dogs might start chewing it. Personally I find that bigger, softer toys, which can be used as a pillow work best for puppies. For this reason we love the Hugglehounds Snoozie or the Polar Bear toy as both are super-comforting. Toilet-breaksSome people opt to get up and take their puppy outside for toilet breaks. If you decide to do this, be prepared to do it two or three times a night! Once back inside, just put him back in the crate, without any fuss, play or treats. Do not lock the crate as puppies are unable to hold the urge to relieve themselves until they are about 5-6 months old.Another option is to put down newspapers or cardboard near the crate, which your puppy can use. Personally, this is what I have always done until my dogs were 6 months old. Over the months there will be less and less mess but be prepared for a lot initially. Puppy-pads are a debatable subject and personally I think using newspaper or cardboard is much better (and cheaper). Water bowlsSome crates have water-bowls, which clip onto the crate, if yours is like that just put some water in it. If not just leave a bowl out for your puppy should he get thirsty at night. (In my experience, most dogs don't drink at night at all, just like we don't either. Night-time is for sleep) The very fist nightTo begin with, toilet your puppy and then supply some peanut butter spread on a lickpad or a final biscuit, say ‘Night-night’ quietly and leave the room. You may hear a few cries, whines or attention barks. As long as all your puppy’s needs are being met, I would leave puppy for a few minutes, if after that amount of time your puppy is still being noisy then I would go down to puppy and open the door a little and say ‘shush’ quietly with not actually entering the room then leave again. You may have to repeat but I have found this the most effective way. This should then only take 1-3 nights for things to settle down In the morning do not make a big fuss when re-entering the room, calmly let your puppy out of the crate and take out to toilet. Bring your puppy back in and clear up any overnight mess and feed your puppy breakfast then take your puppy out again for another toilet and play time. In the daytime do not leave your young puppy for more than 2 hours in the crate (ideally much less) at any one time. When you need to put your puppy in the crate whilst you are out or doing some jobs around the house, put a lickpad with peanut butter in for him or some little treats like sprats or fish sticks (both are totally safe options)so that he can chew and lick, which will keep him busy as well as reduce his anxiety. Ensure your puppy has plenty of interaction with you inside and outside the home when they are not resting. The crate is for sleeping, chilling out and learning some independence from you. If overused for long periods, it will become an area of dislike and this in when anxiety starts to set in as your puppy is lonely and bored. Don’t forget every dog is different and you might have to slightly adjust the above. If you have another dog, the first few nights are likely to be a lot easier. The above tips should definitely help but don’t forget the most important things are patience and consistency!
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Dogs and Fireworks
Keeping your dog safe and happy during fireworksA fear of fireworks in dogs, or of other loud noises, is quite common especially around bonfire night and new year when they’re very loud and unpredictable!While we know fireworks are nothing to worry about, it can be hard to convince our dogs that they are just pretty things to look at. Their effects can be devastating for some dogs. If not treated promptly, mild worry can escalate into a serious phobia of loud noises, and, in the worst cases, anything your dog has come to associate with fireworks, such as the approach of dusk.If your dog is scared of fireworks, there’s no need for you to cancel your firework plans, though – just follow a few tips that will help your Fireworks Night, New Year’s Eve or birthday celebration go smoothly.Before Fireworks: Acclimatise your dog to firework noisesIf your dog is scared of loud noises, ask your vet if they can recommend a pet behaviourist. Training and acclimatisation, especially when young, can teach dogs that bangs and rumbles are nothing to worry about. You can also buy CDs designed to get your dog used to loud noises or you can try to create the bangs yourself Keep your dog in after nightfallWalk your dog during daylight hours and keep them inside after nightfall. Even if you’re not having a fireworks party yourself, your neighbours might be, which could be a bit of a surprise to your dog. MicrochipPanicking animals can easily run away and get lost or injured, so it’s also a good idea to make sure they’re microchipped, just in case. Speak to your vetIf your dog is scared of fireworks and their behaviour doesn’t change, let your vet know that they’re still showing signs of anxiety around loud noise. During fireworks Be calm and reassuringYour dog takes their cues from you, their most trusted friend. Stay relaxed and calm and do not make more of a fuss of your dog than normal, even if they act distressed. If your dog is scared of fireworks, try to reassure them that everything is fine; carry on as normal and they will soon start to follow your lead. Muffle soundsIf your dog’s staying in with you, keep your curtains drawn and windows closed to quieten fireworks outside. Play music or turn on the TV to provide a constant, identifiable noise to mask infrequent, random bangs. Provide canine companyA problem shared is a problem halved. If your friends have dogs with whom your dog gets along, especially if they aren’t fazed by loud noises, ask them to visit. Create a safe, cozy place for your dogDo not lock your dog in the crate as this can be even more stressful. If you let your dog cuddle up with you on the sofa, this could be an ideal solution for a peaceful night in. Alternatively, create a cozy corner with lots of blankets and chews. Don’t forget that chewing relives stress and anxiety, and best to opt for long-lasting chews, which you can check out on our Long-lasting chew page. Draw the curtainsif your dog doesn’t like the visual effects of fireworks, make sure you have the curtains drawn. It’s never a good idea to take your dog to a firework display, even if you think they are happy around fireworks. It’s one thing for a dog to tolerate fireworks in the safety of their home environment but being outside with them all around is another thing entirely. Remember that a frightened dog can show signs of aggression. Never tell them off or punish them if they’re frightened or anxious as this will only make things worse. They’re best left alone so don’t attempt to force anything on them and explain to children why they need to be given space.
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Reactive Dogs
Reactive Dogs, Leash Reactivity, Dog to Dog Reactivity all refer to the same phenomenon, notably dogs being on the lead and showing aggression or other unwanted behaviour when other dogs approach. This causes anxiety both to the dog and owner. But how do you correct this behaviour? Can it be overcome at all? Why do some dogs react to others when on a lead? These are some of the questions we try to answer in this article. Firstly, dog reactivity is not the same as dog aggression, however, reactive dogs could become aggressive dogs if not handled properly. Dogs can be reactive for many reasons, but the most common ones are: FearDogs can fear or dislike other dogs because they had a bad experience or were not socialised in puppyhood. These dogs usually bark and lunge to keep other dogs away. FrustrationSome dogs absolutely love other dogs and want to say hello and play with all other dogs but when they are on a lead they cannot do this, which causes frustration, which in turn makes them bark and lunge. These dogs are totally fine with other dogs when they are in an off-lead environment. Past experienceSimilarly to humans, dogs do what works! If every time they jump on the kitchen counter and manage to eat your steak then they will always try to jump upon the kitchen counter. The other important thing we need to remember is that dogs communicate by behaviour. They don’t speak human language, to them the slightest facial expression, change in posture, staring look, ears down and so on is sufficient to let other dogs know what they like, don’t like or will do. Dogs are peaceful creatures and in an ideal world they would not be on a lead but roam free, run, play and do all the other doggy stuff at their own will. However, this doesn’t necessarily suit us for all sorts of reason so sometimes it is inevitable not to put them on leads. However, when dogs are on leads, they become vulnerable. If they are vulnerable, they can get stressed, fearful or anxious and will trigger their natural ‘fight or flight’ response. When a dog is stressed it will either show the typical signs of being anxious (see below) or mask it by aggression (fight or flight). Signs of a dog being stressed: Tail down and/or curled under Ears are back and down Body is slightly curled/crouched Head turned away from the other dogs Paw lifted Licking the lips Once you notice these signs, you need to take steps to alleviate the anxiety whatever the cause might be. Triggers can be other dogs, kids, cars, men wearing hats, runners, cyclists and so on. We need to understand what causes the reactivity. Given the numerous lockdowns we have faced in recent times, many dogs had no opportunity to socialise during puppyhood, which can cause stress when meeting other dogs. If you suspect this is the reason for your dog’s reactivity when on a lead, gentle socialisation should help but you must take it slowly. For example, I’m not keen on public speech. Whilst I’ve done several presentations in my days in the corporate world, I’ve always dreaded them and given the choice I would certainly not deliver any ever again. Given my anxiety and fear of public speech, if somebody had forced me to give a presentation to 200 people just to overcome my fear, I probably would have hidden in the attic until the day has passed! As such I don’t think throwing your dog into meeting many dogs is helpful so wouldn’t recommend putting your dog in large socialisation classes. A better way to approach it would be to agree to meet with a fellow dog-parent a few times and walk the dogs together. After a while you could walk your dog with another fellow dog-owner introducing your dog to yet another K9. As you widen the circle you could get the already vetted dogs together as a pack and your dog should feel comfortable. However, if your dog simply doesn’t enjoy playing or being with other dogs, there is no need to force it. Again, just think about how you would feel if let’s say you are an introvert person who would rather spend the evenings reading books than going out yet somebody forces you to go to nightclubs every evening! There are other ways to make your dog happy, be it DIY agility course in your garden, scentwork, playing hide and seek or fetch, puzzles and so on. If you have a dog who is reactive when on a lead, barking and lunging at other dogs, it is key to remember that simply facing the same situation again and again will only make your dog better at barking and lunging. As such, dealing with a reactive dog should start with managing situations and this means managing the ‘dog on lead’ walks. Instead try the below steps. How to deal with dog reactivity Use high value rewards, diced chicken, cheese, air-dried sprats, whatever your dogs cannot have enough of. Have sufficient space away from distraction and offer a treat. If he won’t take it, you are too close to the trigger. When your dog demonstrates wanted behaviour (makes eye contact with you, no barking towards other dogs) praise him (‘Good boy’ or simple ‘YES’) and offer a treat. If your dog continues to behave nicely and appears relaxed, taking treats you can slowly move towards other dogs but you have to go slowly at this. As soon as you see signs of stress or aggression you should abandon the mission and wait for the next time. Your plan will vary, depending on your dog. You might find that your dog prefers a different food. You may need to regularly switch up the food you offer to get the required response from your dog. You may need to keep your pup much farther away from other dogs at first. I'd highly recommend working with a dog behaviour professional to get the best result, especially if the above tips don't quite get the required change in behaviour. Someone with years of experience applying gentle, evidence-based training techniques will help your dog’s behaviour improve while helping you feel better about walks.
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