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Travelling with Dogs
Hitting the road with the furry friends Many of us will be getting in the car heading either to the beach or some tranquil holiday cottages with our furry companions with the good weather and half term break in sight. Before you hit the road, it’s good to ensure you have everything you might need for making it comfortable for your pooch. The most important aspects of any travels BlanketMake sure your dog has something comfortable to lie on. Ideally a blanket from home, albeit if your dog is not used to travelling in the car you might want to put a plastic blanket down, which is easy to wipe off should your dog get sick. It’s a good idea to roll down one of the side windows a few centimetres but best avoid blowing cold air on your dog.You might want to use shades to block out the sunshine to reduce heat and glare from the sun. Motion sicknessThe best way to deal with motion sickness is to train your dog well in advance. Ideally, this would start in the early puppy days, which helps to desensitise their uncertainty and get them used to the motion. However, the training can be done at a later stage as well. Start with short journeys in the car, starting with max 10 minutes and gradually increasing it to longer periods over a couple of weeks. Having a positive experience at the end of the car journey will help your dog make positive connections so it’s a good idea to meet up some doggy friends for a nice walk. Having treats at hand in the car can also help. It’s important that you don’t travel with your dog when he/she has just had a meal, best to wait a couple of hours before setting off.If your dog travels in a crate within the boot of the car, you could put some blankets or sheets on top of it to reduce visual disorientation from looking out of the window. However, most dogs quite enjoy watching out of the window so just see how your dog deals with it before trying to reduce the visibility. BreaksIf you are going on a long journey, take a break every couple of hours unless your dogs are seasoned travellers but nonetheless you should not exceed 4 hours of non-stop driving. A bit of stretching and walking around makes the journey so much more comfortable for both humans and canines. Motorway service stations are not the most dog-friendly places but some offer more greenery and dog-friendly areas than others and it is good to do some research before you hit the road. SpaceAssuming your dog travels in the boot, you need to give him/her enough space to be able to stand up, turn around and change position. If you are putting some luggage in the boot, make sure that they won’t fall on your dog, which could be distressing. It’s always better to have a roof box for suitcases and bags.If your dog travels in the boot, it is also recommended to have a boot gate to prevent your dog from jumping through to the front of the vehicle. HydrationMost dogs are not keen on drinking whilst travelling in the car. However, you could put a bowl of water in for him (ideally only filled one third), you can even buy non-spill travelling bowls. However, it’s not necessary to do so as long as you make sure that you often take a break and offer fresh water to your dog at every stop. SafetyAccording to the Highway Code, “a seat belt harness, pet carrier, dog cage or dog guard are ways of restraining animals in cars.” These are the safest ways and you need to choose the method that suits you and your dog the best. Unrestrained dogs can be a distraction increasing the risk of an incident. No dog should ever be restrained by the collar though!It is not illegal for your dog to travel in the front of the car, however, the passenger side airbag must be switched off and the seat should be moved far back. Travelling to Europe It used to be quite straight-forward to travel to Europe with dogs. However, Brexit has changed that and unfortunately, it is now quite an expensive exercise. We have already written a detailed article on all the requirements, which you can access here. However, a summary is included below. Animal Health Certificate requirements: All dogs need to be microchipped Be up to date on rabies vaccinations. If not, allow for a minimum of 21 days from the date of the vaccination before travelling to the EU. Make an appointment (well in advance) with a vet authorised to complete the necessary checks and issue the Animal Health Certificate. The appointment will last around an hour. The appointment cannot be more than 10 days before you enter the EU. Make sure the form is in the language of the intended first point of entry to the EU. Your vet will do this but please double-check it. On arrival at the first point of entry in the EU, have the form checked with the dogs if travel beyond the country of the first point of entry is intended. Between 24 hours and 120 hours prior to re-entry to Great Britain the dog(s) require tapeworm treatment. On our trip the details of this treatment were entered onto Page 4 of the Animal Health Certificate. This does look like where if you were travelling into Finland, Norway, Ireland, Northern Ireland or Malta the tapeworm treatment would appear but it is the correct place for re-entry to Great Britain too. Remember the document only lasts for 4 months from the date of issue for returning your dog to the UK. Remember that every time you make a trip to Europe you need a new Animal Health Certificate. Things to pack for your dog: his/her regular food. If your dog is raw-fed, you can either try to source complete raw food abroad or simply buy raw meat and veg from any supermarket and offer him that. For the actual journey, either use a cool-box with ice packs or buy some freeze-dried raw food. Don't forget poop bags. Treats for the journey and the stay. In order to ensure you can enjoy BBQs and lounge in the garden/beach, it's a good idea to get some long-lasting chews in advance. Remember that buying from us will be much cheaper than buying treats abroad! toothbrush and toothpaste. We got great feedback on the Enticers. The takeaway of Travelling with Dogs: DOs: Secure your pet using a crate, pet carrier or harness You can open the window slightly or have the aircon on as long as it’s not blowing directly in your dog’s face Either have a bowl of water accessible in the car or offer plenty at stops Take regular breaks on a long journey to give your dog the chance to stretch, drink and go to the toilet Have some comfy blankets for your dog to lie on DON’Ts: Don't leave the passenger-side airbag on if your dog travels on the front seat Don’t feed your dog two hours prior to travel. Don’t let your dog stick his head out of the window Don’t leave your dog in the car as it can very quickly warm up causing your dog to overheat
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Anal Gland Problems in Dogs
All you need to know about anal glands Anal glands are a pair of small, grape-sized scent glands on either side of a dog’s anus, just under the tail. They are not visible to the naked eye as they are inside the anus. The glands normally release a few drops of scent when a dog defecates, helping dogs to mark their territory. These glands can become irritated, blocked or over-filled. If they are too full, they can create pressure, which is uncomfortable to the dogs and most dogs will try to ease this by scooting their bottom on the floor. Another typical sign is the distinctive odour. Signs & symptoms of anal gland problems: scooting on the floor excessive licking near the hind area foul/fishy odour leaking of anal gland fluid swelling near the anal region straining when defecating What causes anal gland problems in dogs? Diet can be a major factor, however, often it is a combination of things. In order for the anal glands to empty naturally, stools need to be firm to create sufficient pressure on the anal sacs. Allergies can also contribute to irritated anal glands. Allergies cause inflamed skin, which can affect the ears, belly, paws as well as the anal region. For some dogs it can be simply due to an abnormally low or high (too deep in the anus) pair of anal sacs so much so that they cannot easily empty without any help. How to resolve anal glands problems naturally As diet can be a major factor in its problem, it is also the first thing to look at when trying to resolve the matter. High quality food is essential as proper ingredients and nutrients ensure healthy stools and healthy anal glands. It is a good idea to give your dog some raw or steamed vegetables as well. These toppings would increase fibre in the diet which helps digestion as well as healthy functioning of the anal glands. Treating your dog to some tinned salmon, sardines or mackerel would also be beneficial as they are high in Omega 3 essential fatty acids, which support a healthy immune system so that it can combat inflammation. As well as diet, regular exercising is essential to support healthy bowel movements. If your dog is left at home for long periods with no walks, having to hold back bowel movements can put excess pressure on the organs which can negatively impact the anal glands. In order to avoid this, it’s best to have a friend or dog-walker coming round to take your dog out if you have to be away. When to see the vet If your dog is still showing signs of anal gland problems after having tried to relieve the pressure naturally, it is best to seek help from a vet, who can express the glands manually. Some people might try to do this less than pleasant job themselves. However, it is stressful and unpleasant for both dog and owner therefore I’d urge anybody to take their dogs to the vet instead. Anal gland problems left unchecked can develop into infections or even abscess, which would require prescription drugs.
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Are Dogs Omnivores?
Have you ever wondered if dogs are carnivores and therefore should live on a pure meat diet? Or are they omnivores like us? After all, they are more than happy to tuck into our food and sometimes they simply refuse to eat their food unless some human food put on as toppers. You might say, it doesn't matter as my dog is happy. However, the reason why it should matter is because we all want to give them the best to keep them happy and healthy and for this reason we need to know what is the best for dogs based on their build and characteristics. Before we dive in, let's start with the basics. Are dogs carnivores or omnivores? A carnivore is an animal or plant that eats the flesh of other animals, put it simply they are ’meat-eaters’. These animals have higher nutritional needs for certain amino acids (taurine) and fatty acids (arachidonic acid) and animal protein is a rich source of both. Omnivores are animals that eat both plant-and animal-derived food. In Latin, omnivore means to eat everything. Humans are typical omnivores. Are dogs meat-eaters? Yes. Do dogs eat everything? Yes (think of those puppy eyes as you are enjoying a slice of buttery toast). Based on these two simple questions, we can already see that dogs fall into both categories. However, to muddle the water even further, carnivores can be sub-categorised further: Obligate carnivores, whose diet entirely rely on meat. They include members of the cat family. Facultative carnivores are those that also eat non-animal food in addition to animal food and dogs would be considered facultative carnivores. Scavenging omnivores would be another very apt term to describe dogs as they are certainly not against the idea of feeding on leftovers, be it carcasses, fallen fruit, veg or of course your toast. In the wild, they would pretty much eat anything! Their primary choice would be animal protein, however, when food is scarce they could survive on a meat-free diet until animal protein was available again. As such, in terms of behaviour, dogs would most certainly be classified as omnivores. How about the physical traits? Many physical characteristics of dogs show carnivorous traits, including teeth and physical build. Teeth - Plants include an outer layer of cellulose, which is indigestible for a typical carnivore like a cat. However, herbivores and omnivores (like humans) can extract and digest the nutrients with the help of their flat morals, which can grind the indigestible fibre. Dogs don’t have these molars but equipped with sharp, serrated ones which work like a meat-slicer. Their wide-set jaws and relatively large oesophagus are further evidence of that dogs are designed to be able to swallow large chunks of meat at a time. As such in the wild, even if dogs would munch on plant material it would not provide any nutritious and digestible nutrient; it would be done more as an activity to kill boredom or ease teething pain. Digestive system - Dogs stomach can take up large amount of food as generally speaking their stomach has a larger capacity plus they are equipped with shorter digestive tract. As a result food stays in their stomach for much longer which subsequently means that food is more easily broken down and digested. It also kills harmful bacteria more efficiently hence the reason why dogs don’t suffer from salmonella and the likes. The efficient digestion is further aided by the pancreas whose key role is the breakdown and digestion of fat. Recently there has been a shift to no-grain or low-grain diets as the preferred diets for dogs and there is a genetic reason for this. Digestion of food for omnivores and herbivores start in the mouth with the production of amylase in the saliva. This helps the breakdown of carbohydrate. However, dogs lack this ability and the digestion of carbohydrate happens in the small intestine, which is a typical trait of carnivores. Dogs are able to digest carbohydrates, however, the reason why it is not advisable to put your dog on a high carbohydrate or grain diet is because they could be lacking sufficient amount of carb-processing enzymes to digest the carbohydrate. Whilst their digestive system is dissimilar to herbivores or omnivores they are perfectly capable to digest plants and live on a plant-based diet. However, if a dog is to live on a plant-based diet, supplementation will be required to make up for those nutrients not found in plant material. Having analysed dog’s physical traits and digestive system, it is fair to say that dogs can safely be classed as omnivores with a preference for animal protein.
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Allergies in Dogs
Is it an allergy or sensitivity? Similar to humans, dogs can also display signs of allergies or sensitivities to certain external factors, be it pollen, dust, mould, certain food, etc. When talking about allergies and sensitivities, most people will refer to allergies. However, allergies in dogs are actually quite rare and in most cases it is food sensitivity that causes issues for your dog. Let’s now look at each in turn. Allergy Allergy is caused by external factors (referred to as allergens), which initiate the immune system to ’over-react’. The allergens are usually some type of protein. These allergen proteins attach to antibodies in the body then to mast cells which are found throughout the body. Mast cells then release histamines which cause inflammation and symptoms of itching, redness and swelling. The most common symptoms include itchy skin and sometimes sneezing, coughing and runny nose. However, the symptoms can affect the digestive system as well, resulting in diarrhoea or sickness. The most common allergens are pollens, insects, dust mites, mould spores, shed skin cells, fleas or more specifically their saliva or medications. Insect bite allergy is quite common and it manifests in the same way as in humans, triggering an overreaction from the immune system. Such a response can be triggered by fleas, spiders, flies, bees, wasps, basically any insects that bite. When an insect bites a dog, most dogs experience localised itching. However, with constant scratching dogs might remove large amounts of hair or even skin, potentially risking a bacterial infection. In the case of severe itching, you can use calamine lotion or simply soak some oats in water, strain it after half an hour and dab the skin with the liquid every now and then. Alternatively, your vet can prescribe some antihistamines. Atopic allergy Atopic allergy refers to the tendency to produce an exaggerated immune response to otherwise harmless substances naturally found in the environment. The main allergens are pollen, grass, mould, dust and weed. When atopic dermatitis occurs, you will see your dog licking his feet, scratching the underarm area as well as rubbing his face to whatever he can to ease the itching. In order to identify the allergen, your vet will either do a skin test or a blood test and advise you to keep your dog away from the offending substance. Treatment can include any of the therapies below: Anti-inflammatory medication: Most often corticosteroids or antihistamines are prescribed. However, these drugs can have serious side-effects so it is important to do your research and make an informed decision to see if it is the best treatment for your dog. Medicated baths: Frequent bathing with hypoallergenic shampoo will soothe the itchy skin as well as get rid of the allergens which could still be stuck in the hair. Anti-inflammatory diet: Your vet might prescribe some specific food to your dog. However, it’s possible to make changes to your dog’s diet without the need to go down this route. The natural approach would incorporate plenty of safe veg and fruit in your dog’s diet, along with lots of oily fish (salmon, herring, anchovies, sardines, mackerel) rich in Omega 3 fatty acids. You might wish to find a reputable dog nutritionist to help you along the journey if you opt for this. Contact dermatitis/allergy Dogs can also suffer from contact dermatitis upon coming into contact with certain substances, be it chemicals found around the house, grass, pesticides or bedding. Once the allergen is removed, the problem is usually resolved. Food allergy Should your dog be allergic to certain protein types, the most obvious sign would be itching, diarrhoea, hives, excess wind, vomiting. However, food allergy can also manifests itself in respiratory problems, such as coughing or sneezing. Another tell-tale sign is recurring ear infection as well as itchy skin not reacting to steroid treatment or antibiotics. The only way to identify the allergen is to put your dog on an elimination diet. The most common allergens include: chicken beef dairy products (many dogs struggle to digest cow’s milk as they lack the enzymes need for digestion) fish eggs However, dogs can be also allergic to plant-based sources such as wheat, corn, soy. However, it is less common so simply switching to a grain-free food will not resolve the issue. (Food) Sensitivity Whilst allergy can be triggered by a number of factors, sensitivity is triggered by excess exposure to a type of food. Food sensitivity builds up over a prolonged time before any signs can be spotted. The most common signs include vomiting, diarrhoea, gas, lack of appetite and weight loss, which is all due to your dog not being able to digest the allergen. It is possible to overcome sensitivities by following the elimination diet for dogs for a set of time before re-introducing common protein sources in order to identify the triggering food. Elimination Diet for Dogs It is a strict diet whereby you cannot cheat, i.e. your dog cannot have his favourite snacks or scraps from the table, if you wish to successfully identify the allergen. The owners (and all family members) therefore need to be 100% committed, but the good news is, the diet is not for the rest of the dog’s life! Basically all potential allergens are removed from the diet whilst the immune system is strengthened and the gut is supported. The practise involves 3 specific actions, often referred to as the 4Rs: Remove: Remove offending food, one at a time and note any changes. Both the elimination phase and the re-introduction can be quite lengthy, therefore it is best to keep a food diary for your dog, noting everything he eats and all his symptoms as well. Repair: Support the gut with glutamine and N-Acetyl-Glucosamine (NAC). Help the immune system with feeding your dog oily fish and veg and fruit rich in Vitamin C. You also need to consider any medications your dog is taking, again it is best to involve either your vet or a dog nutritionist. Restore & Replenish: This is the next step in supporting the gut – remember that 70-80% of the body’s immune cells are found in the gut, hence the importance of repairing the gut and restoring a healthy gut biome. In order to do this, probiotics have to be incorporated into the diet. If you wish to purchase supplements, you can do that but it is also easy to give your dog natural, unflavoured kefir and Greek yoghurt and the good news is, dogs absolutely love both. You can read more about Supplements for Dogs if you wish to go down that route. How to do it? Start off by either cooking for your dog (makes digestion easier) or putting him on the raw diet and start him on some hypoallergenic, novel protein source, be it wild boar, rabbit, ostrich, kangaroo, venison or horse. Pick one and stick to it for 12 weeks (12 weeks is how long it takes for the body to get rid of previously fed food). After 12 weeks, introduce another novel protein source and stick to only that type of protein for a week or two. If your dog shows no allergic symptoms then you can safely feed him both protein sources. After a while you can re-introduce common protein sources, but only one at a time. So let’s say your dog is OK on venison and wild boar or even rabbit (which means any combination of them can be in the diet once they were individually vetted), however, you now want to test your dog on chicken. AT this point bring in the chicken, ideally in small quantities first. Feed chicken along the already vetted protein types for a week or two and check for reactions. If all is well, you can move onto the next possible allergen. As you can see the elimination and the the re-introduction can be quite lengthy but it is worth doing it right in order to help your dog live a better life.
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Dogs' Nutritional Requirements
What do dogs need in their diet? As omnivores, dogs have the ability to digest both meat and vegetables. Therefore they need a balanced diet of proteins, fats, carbohydrates (they are classed as macronutrients) as well as vitamins and minerals (micronutrients). Both macro- and micronutrients are important for healthy body functions, however, it is the macronutrients that provide the foundation of a dog’s (or of course human’s diet). It is important to understand what each macronutirent does to the body, why it is important and what your dog’s needs are for each. We will take you through each of them in turn. MACRONUTRIENTS Protein Protein is extremely important for building and repairing muscles and other body tissues. It is needed to form new skin cells, grow hair, build muscle tissue, and more. It also assists in creating body chemicals like hormones and enzymes that are needed for normal function. It provides energy and keeps the immune system strong. Proteins are made up of amino acids, and dogs require 22 amino acids to make necessary proteins. A dog’s body is able to make about half of these needed amino acids, but the rest must come from the food your dog eats every day. Because these amino acids are so important, they are called essential amino acids. Deficiencies of any of the essential amino acids over time can lead to health problems. Animal proteins are complete proteins, meaning they contain all 10 essential amino acids a dog needs ( as well as some non-essential ones). Whilst plants also provide amino acids, there is only a handful which contain all the essential amino acids required in the canine diet. 10 Essential Amino Acids for Dogs arginine – needed for healthy circulation and blood vessel dilation histidine – improves oxygen circulation for the whole body methionine – promotes healthy skin and coat threonine – important for energy production isoleucine – protein synthesis and muscle development leucine – as above valine – as above phenylalanine – required for thyroid and adrenal gland function lysine – aid protein synthesis for growth and development tryptophan – supports circadian rhythm so that your dog knows when to sleep Whilst plants provide digestible protein for energy they do not contain all 10 essential amino acids (with a few exceptions) needed in a canine diet, therefore it is important to provide sufficient meat to your dog for long-term health. Interestingly, it is also common practice by dog food manufacturers to increase the dog food’s protein content by the inclusion of grains and plants and market them as extremely beneficial due to the added vegetables. However, the truth is that this only helps those manufacturers to keep their manufacturing cost low and their profits high as a dog cannot easily digest grains and/or inexpensive grains and vegetables do not provide all the essential amino acids required. Digestibility of a macronutrient is usually discussed with reference to its bioavailability. One fairly inexepensive but highly digestible protein source is eggs. Now check out how many dog food manufacturers use eggs in kibble! There is nothing wrong with using eggs or giving eggs to your dog, however, these manufacturers just distort the true value of their food, whilst asking for a high price on the basis that it is high in protein, has added vitamins and vegetables (more on these added synthetics vitamins later). Digestibility of a macronutrient is usually discussed with reference to its bioavailability. One relatively cheap but highly digestible protein source is eggs, however, you never find it on the ingredients list! One reason is that it is more expensive than other less bioavailble sources (such as grains or meat meal). Manufacturers usually distort the true value of their food by not detailing bioavailability but just the ingredients regardless if they are easily digestible or not by dogs. Fat Fats are very important in both human and canine diets as they are needed for energy production, cell membrane integrity, hormone production, insulation and many more body functions. Fat is also required for the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins, namely vitamin A, D, E, and K. Without enough fat, a dog with an unlimited supply of those vitamins cannot benefit from them. Fat also serves as a source for essential (unsaturated) fatty acids (EFAs) that canines can’t manufacture but they are needed for cell membrane integrity. There are 2 types of fats: Saturated fat, which is easily digestible and provides a great source of energy. Examples include butter, cheese, eggs, beef, salmon, coconut oil or peanut butter and many more. Saturated fat helps the absorption of vitamin A,D,E and K as mentioned above. However, some dogs can't easily digest cow milk and for them sheep or goat milk products are better. Unsaturated fat includes vegetable oils, avocado, nuts and seeds, etc. Remember, that avocado is toxic for dogs and not all nuts are great either. These are detailed further in the article. Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) EFAs are a type of saturated fat and as the name suggests (essential) a dog is unable to synthetise all the required EFAs and therefore they are needed in the diet. There are 2 main categories and altogether 5 EFAs. They all have common dietary sources so eating one source usually provides the rest of the EFAs. For simplicity, in this article we just break them down to the two major groups: Omega 3 fatty acids – rich sources include oily fish such as salmon, mackerel, herring, anchovies and sardine, flaxseed, hemp, soybean, walnut, rapeseed and dark green leafy veg are rich in these EFAs. Omega 6 fatty acids – rich dietary sources include sunflower seeds and oil as well as safflower oil. Animal products such as meat, eggs are also rich sources of one type of Omega 6 fats. The ideal ratio The Western human diet is rich in Omega 6 fatty acids and as such the ratio between Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids tends to be around 10:1 (the ideal ratio is 1:1-3)! More and more dogs’ diet mimics their owners therefore their ratio can be distorted, albeit dogs do need a larger amount of meat in their diet and therefore they need more Omega 6. The ideal ratio for dogs is: Omega 3:Omega 6 = 1-5:1:10 Kibble is often fortified with EFAs, however, this can actually cause issues for some dogs, plus manufacturers don’t always detail which type of EFAs were added to the food and in what ratio. As well as the ratio, the source of fish oil is also important to consider. Fats and oils from poor sources will adversely impact a dog’s health. You also need to be careful with supplements as excessive Omega 3 supplementation can suppress the immune system, risk mercury accumulation and oxidative damage. In order to know more about the topic, please read Supplements for Dogs. Carbohydrates Carbohydrates do have a place in a dog’s diet but not all carbs are equal. When it comes to carbohydrates, we usually talk about 4 sub-categories: Digestible Absorbable Fermentable – this type of carbohydrate is required to feed healthy bacteria in the intestines. Fermentable carbs are also known as prebiotics and they are often present in commercial dog food in the form of chicory root. Whilst they are healthy, it is not advisable to overfeed them Non-Fermentable carbs are basically fibre, which is essential for healthy digestion and regular bowel movement. Fibre cannot be digested, however, it slows down digestion and keeps dogs (and humans ) fuller for longer. Specifically, it is soluble fibre refers which does this by attracting water and giving the feeling of fullness. On the other hand, insoluble fibre adds bulk and speeds the movement through the digestive system. Brown rice is a good example of insoluble fibre. Vegetables are great sources of fibre and they also provide vitamins and minerals therefore it is great to incorporate them into the diet. Simple vs. complex carbs Another way to group carbohydrate is simple versus complex carbs. Simple carbs have very low nutritional value other than they give a quick boost of energy, which doesn’t last long. Simple carbs are made up of one sugar molecule, like glucose or fructose and simple carbs often refer to the likes of white bread, pasta, cake, sugar, fruit, etc. Complex Carbs take much longer to digest and they provide a slow-releasing form of energy, which will maintain the blood sugar level at a healthy level for longer. They are made up of several sugar molecules, which the body has to break up in order to digest and this takes some time hence the slow-releasing energy. Complex carbs, like brown rice, usually contain fibre and other nutrients as well, making them a healthier choice. MICRONUTRIENTS The word micronutrient encompasses vitamins and minerals, which are still essential for a dog but they are needed in much lower quantities. VITAMINS Vitamins play an important role in immunity, energy production, and many more. They can be sub-categorised into water- and fat soluble vitamins. Vitamins are abundant in fruits and vegetables. Whilst vitamins are added to commercial dog food, they are usually the cheap, synthetic version, making them difficult to absorb. As such, it is advisable to incorporate fruit and veg into your dog’s diet (Please read our article , Vegetables for Dogs to know which veg to feed to your dog to be on the safe side). Vitamins are organic and can be broken down by heat, air or acid. MINERALS Minerals are important for healthy cell function, growth, repair and many more. They are found in both animal and plant origins. Macro minerals are required in larger amounts than the trace minerals and are found in greater amounts in your dog’s body. Macro minerals include calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, sodium, chloride, potassium and sulphur. Trace minerals include iron, zinc, copper, chromium, iodine, selenium, manganese and fluorine. Significant interactions exist between many of the minerals. Thus, minerals need to be balanced with each other to provide optimal health. Too much of one mineral and not enough of another can affect growth and cause other problems in the body. Problems with mineral nutrition in dogs are often a result of excess of imbalance from interactions with other nutrients. Supplementing your dogs food with minerals should never be done without expert advice. The health risks from excessive amounts or improper balance are too severe A word on ’ash’ When a food is analysed for energy all nutrients other than minerals are removed. The remaining material is made up if minerals, commonly referred to as ‘ash’ – also one of the most frequent misunderstood terms in dog food. High quality dry food generally contain between 5%-8% ash. Summary on Dogs' Nutritional Requirements Dogs nutritional needs is similar to humans. As omnivores, they need healthy sources of protein, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins and minerals. As a nutritionist, I believe it is better to provide all of these in the most natural form, therefore as food which the body can easily absorb and digest as opposed to synthetic versions found in supplements. However, supplementation can be a good idea should your dog be severely deficient. Hopefully the above information will guide you choosing the right food for your beloved dog. Should you wish to cook for your dogs or address nutritional deficiencies, it is best to speak to a pet nutritionist.
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Bully Sticks for Dogs
All that you need to know about this well-loved dog chew Bully sticks (aka pizzles, pizzle sticks) are well-loved dog chews, so much so that not even the fussiest dogs can say no to these long-lasting dental chews! Many dog owners are eager to treat their woofers to these delicacies despite the strong smell they tend to have. However, others might limit it to summer treats which can be enjoyed in the garden whilst others totally avoid them due to the unique smell or simply as they know what it is! Talking of which, do you know what bully sticks are? They are nothing else but a bull’s penis! Please, don’t stop reading on though as they are the ultimate dog chews for a number of reasons. Benefits of Bully Sticks They are extremely tough chews due to the slow, air-drying process. However, not all pizzles are made the same way so always check that your chosen supplier does indeed sell air-dried pizzle sticks without any chemicals. High in protein, which is essential for growth, development and bone health. Easy to digest unless your dog has some intolerances to high protein treats. Highly digestible treats lower the risk of intestinal blockage. Excellent dental chews keeping the jaws, gum in top condition and tartar-free. Regular chewing is an essential activity for all dogs as it helps to reduce boredom, anxiety and frustration whilst keeping on top of oral hygiene. As with any long lasting chews, bully sticks stimulate the release of endorphins, promoting good mental health and a happy dog. If you have a dog with phobias or separation anxiety, bully sticks could help them. Prolonged peace – even the biggest chompers can get a good 20 minute chewing session out of an extra thick pizzle and for smaller dogs one stick can last hours or days, which means some well-deserved relaxation and peace for us dog-parents. Nutritional benefits of Bully Sticks Bully sticks are pretty nutritious. They are primarily made up of protein (around 80-90%), and are low in fat (approximately 3%) and low in cholesterol. However, they are relatively high in calories (c. 15kcal per inch) which means a small, 6-inch bully stick is approximately 90 calories! For medium to large dogs, this is nothing to worry about but if you have a small breed, you might have to pay a closer attention to your dog’s meals on days when he/she enjoys some pizzles. Are Bully Sticks Safe for Dogs? The main risk associated with bully sticks for dogs are from bacterial contamination. However, this can be minimised if you source them from reputable companies. In terms of your own safety, always wash you hands after handling them. Bacterial contamination Dogs have much stronger digestive systems (maybe they are just better trained to deal with 'dodgy' food) than humans, and can tolerate bacterial contamination to some degree. However, sometimes it can cause stomach upsets, and symptoms such as vomiting and diarrhoea. Naturally, any product which is ‘all-natural’ will have had minimal processing, which means harmful bacteria can still remain on it. The more processed it is (for example, irradiation, baking at a high heat, or using chemicals to sanitise it), the safer it is from contamination. However, those processes take away from the fact that one of the most common reasons why people like bully sticks is that they are natural. Additionally, the more processed a treat is, the less nutrients it contains. Choking When a pizzle stick becomes small enough to swallow whole, it becomes a hazard. If it reaches the stomach, it shouldn’t cause a problem, as they are fully digestible. However, prior to the stomach it can become lodged in the throat, which can cause serious choking incidents. Therefore, when it becomes small, take the last bit away. The best way to avoid any choking hazard is to supervise your dog at all times. Can puppies have bully sticks? Absolutely, as long as they are aged 12 weeks or more. They are hard, but not so hard that they will damage a puppy's teeth. Therefore they are great for your puppy to gnaw out his teething frustrations on. Please ensure that you choose the most suitable pizzles for your puppy though. They should start out with Standard pizzles before moving onto the Extra Thick or Jumbo ones. Please bear in mind that young puppies have immature digestive systems, so introduce the pizzle stick to them slowly, starting with 5-10 minute chewing session (then take it away) and slowly letting your puppy enjoy it for longer periods. What to watch out for Some bully sticks are baked or smoked, which can reduce the nutrients and in some cases means the use of chemicals. The best bully sticks are air-dried slowly at a low temperature to preserve all nutrients. Some pizzles might have gone through a ’chemical bath’ to kill any potential harmful bacteria. If your dog is overweight, limit how often she/he can have a pizzle or reduce the normal food intake As natural bully sticks often have a relatively strong odour, some suppliers have started to offer ’no-odour’ pizzles. However, these ones will have been more processed, and once chewed they will still smell, although to a lesser degree. These ’no-odour’ pizzles tend to be lighter in colour, which might help you choose wisely, albeit this is not always guaranteed to be the case. Our range of Bully Sticks All our pizzles are sourced from the EU from reputable farmers. Our pizzles are all 100% pure meat, which has been air-dried at a low temperature preserving all nutrients and killing all harmful bacteria. We grade our pizzles by weight and offer the following products: Regular 12cm pizzles – average weight of 20g (varies between 15-25g). As well as selling them in bags of 5, they are also in our Long-Lasting Delights bag. Thick 12cm pizzles – average weight of 25g. These are found in the Chomper boxes (Power and Ultimate). Extra Thick 12cm pizzles – average weight of 35g (varies between 30-60g). These are sold in bag of 4. Jumbo 20cm pizzles are sold in bag of 4. Alternatives to Bully Sticks If you are still not totally convinced that pizzles are what you should treat your dog to, here are some alternatives which you might want to think about: Yak chews: Originally from the Himalayas, these milk sticks are compressed blocks of yak milk which have been smoke-dried for about a month. They are completely natural, incredibly durable and excellent for dental health. They are suitable form 16 weeks of age. Antlers: An excellent fat-free option, which dogs love to gnaw on. The bonus is that they are totally odourless to humans! Camel Braids: Exceptionally long lasting, low fat, natural healthy treats for dogs of all sizes. The best of all, they are virtually odourless and naturally hypoallergenic. Suitable for dogs aged 12 weeks and above.
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Pancreatitis in Dogs
Pancreatitis is inflammation of the pancreas. According to some experts, it is one of the most common health problems in dogs. (Pathophysiology of pancreatitis in dogs) Pancreatitis can be acute (it appears suddenly and lasts a few days) or chronic (it slowly develops over several years). However, let’s start with the basics before diving into this serious health condition. What is the pancreas? The pancreas is a gland located in the abdomen and it’s part of the small intestines. What does the pancreas do? The pancreas has two key roles: It secretes hormones, including insulin and glucagon, which play an important role in regulating blood sugar levels in the body. It is essential to have a balanced blood glucose level for healthy levels of energy as well as functioning liver, kidney and even brain. It also secretes digestive enzymes, making digestion and excretion of nutrients from food easy. These digestive enzymes work along with bile (secreted from the liver and gallbladder) and they help to break down substances for proper digestion and absorption of nutrients. What causes pancreatitis in dogs? Normally the enzymes secreted by the pancreas become active only when they reach the small intestines. However, in pancreatitis the digestive enzymes become activated while still in the pancreas, irritating the cells of the organ and causing inflammation. If this happens over and over, the pancreas itself will be damaged leading to chronic pancreatitis. This can result in the formation of scar tissues in the pancreas eventually causing loss of function. A poorly functioning pancreas can cause digestion problems and even lead to diabetes. Some experts also believe that in the case of pancreatitis, the enzymes actually start ‘digesting’ the pancreas itself causing severe pain to dogs. Signs and symptoms of pancreatitis in dogs Hunched back Numerous vomiting within a few hours Distention of the abdomen Diarrhoea Dehydration Loss of appetite Lethargy Fever Some of these symptoms are quite common for other, less serious illnesses so if your dog only exhibits some symptoms infrequently then please monitor. However if your dog shows several of these symptoms at once and repeatedly, then call your vet urgently. Risk factors for pancreatitis in dogs Whilst there are a number of causes for pancreatitis, often the attack appears out of the blue. Nonetheless, some conditions certainly increase the risk factor, such as: A high fat diet. The risk is increased if a dog is fed only once a day and his/her diet is especially high in fat. Sharing high-fat human food with your dog is not a good idea either. Diabetes mellitus. Both Type 1 and Type 2 diabetes can increase the risk due to the disfunction of insulin. Hypothyroidism. Other endocrine diseases can also increase the risk. Some medications. Diuretics, cholinesterase inhibitors, estrogen and several other drugs can increase the risk; read leaflets carefully and ask your vet to detail such risks before prescribing any medications. Genetic disposition. Certain breeds have higher risk of pancreatitis, such as Miniature Schnauzers and some toy breed dogs. How is it diagnosed? The vet will look at the dog’s medical history as well as ask about its diet. Blood tests are usually performed to measure the pancreatic enzymes in the blood. Additionally, the vet will examine the stomach, heart, temperature. Ultrasound or fine needle aspiration might be performed to rule out other causes. Treatment of pancreatitis in dogs The most common treatment and management options include: Management of pain IV fluid therapy Withholding food for 24 hours Long-term management involve keeping an eye on fat intake, smaller, regular meals throughout the day. Complications of pancreatitis Pancreatitis can lead to serious complications, including: Kidney failure. Acute pancreatitis may cause kidney failure. Breathing problems. Acute pancreatitis can cause changes in the lungs’ function causing the level of oxygen in the blood to fall to dangerously low levels. Both acute and chronic pancreatitis can cause the pancreas to produce fewer of the enzymes required to break down and process the nutrients from food. This can lead to malnutrition, diarrhoea and weight loss even if the same amount of food is eaten. Damage to insulin-producing cells on the pancreas can lead to diabetes, a disease that affects the way the body uses blood sugar. Acute pancreatitis can make the pancreas vulnerable to bacteria and infection. Pancreatic infections are serious and usually require surgery to remove the infected scar tissue. Pancreatic cancer. Chronic inflammation in the pancreas increases the risk factor for developing pancreatic cancer. How can you keep the pancreas healthy? Given that the problems start if the diet is unhealthy, the way to keep the pancreas in top condition also lies in diet and lifestyle. Avoid obesity. Healthy weight will prevent diabetes mellitus as well as gallstones that could lead to pancreatitis. Keep the diet low fat. Fats and cholesterol can lead to the development of gallstones, which can subsequently lead to pancreatitis. However, the inclusion of healthy fats (such as those found in oily fish, flaxseeds, chia seeds, avocado, etc.) can actually prevent pancreatitis! Regular exercise. It’s easier to maintain a healthy weight with regular exercise. One hour exercise a day should be sufficient for most dogs but of course it really depends on the dog as young, active breeds need more than an old dog. Healthy fats, such as fish oil or Vitamin E oil are shown to lower fat levels in the blood so giving your dog a can of sardines can be beneficial (don’t give the oil the sardines are in though!). Unfortunately, once a dog has had a bout of pancreatitis, the recurrence is quite high. Be vigilant and watch for any signs and keep your dog on the lean side.
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Getting a Puppy: The Ultimate Guide for First Time Dog Owners
The Chomp and Chew Guide to Having a Puppy in Your Life Chapter 1: Loyalty and Friendship - Why Puppies Improve Your Life Getting a puppy is one of the most exciting things in life. It is a magical time where you experience many firsts through your puppy's eyes. You get to see them explore new things and watch them try to make sense of this great big world, they’ve entered. Not only do puppies give us joy and entertainment, but they also provide us with loyalty and friendship for the rest of their lives. It is probably one reason you’re considering getting a puppy (or you’ve done so already). As most dog owners will tell you: dogs provide a sense of companionship that doesn’t quite measure up to our other relationships. It is the type of loyalty and friendship that stands the test of time and improves the owner’s life, providing some surprising benefits along the way. Dogs Are Loyal to the Bone When thinking of a dog, the first word that comes to mind is LOYALTY. Dogs are known for their unconditional loyalty to their pack, which in this case is you and your family. Your dog will have a strong feeling of devotion, support, and allegiance toward you without any ulterior motives. But why are dogs so loyal in the first place? It’s in a dog’s nature to be loyal. You might have heard that dogs are pack animals, but what does that mean? Dogs naturally thrive better when they move in a group that makes up their family or pack. In this pack setting, dogs rely on each other for survival and companionship. For instance, in the wild, some dogs may be better at protecting, while others may be better at scent work and seeking out potential food sources. Although your pet is domesticated, s/he still has the natural instinct that living in a pack is better for their survival. So, instead of relying on other dogs for survival, companionship, and sociability, your dog depends on you and your family. But what does this have to do with loyalty? Well, being in a pack means that each dog needs to be loyal to the rest for maximum chances of survival. If some pack members are not reliable, the pack’s survival will falter. So, a dog feels compelled to have a sense of allegiance and support to the pack. That’s the only way they know how to survive. Dogs have a shared history with people. Thousands of years ago, there weren’t any domesticated dogs on earth. It is only through the accidental domestication of some wolves that dogs came to exist as we know them today (How did dogs become our best friends?). That’s thanks to the shared history between wolves and people. As you can figure out, dogs are descended from wolves. Although there is no clear evidence on how domestication started, there are a few theories on the topic. The most popular theory is that people used to set up camp in the wild (keep in mind that housing consisted of tents, not the secure buildings we have today). As people prepared food, they had to put their scraps somewhere. This lured the wolves closer to the people’s tents. The closer the wolves got to the humans and the more they benefited from the people’s scraps, the more wolves chose to stick around humans as they travelled. For a few thousand years, some wolves grew loyal to people because they got food and sometimes even affection from some people. Scientists believe that this shared history between humans and wolves attributes to the deep form of loyalty our dogs have toward us today. Dogs are loyal to those who meet their needs. Like with any relationship, if you take care of one another, loyalty comes naturally. In your puppy’s case, it means that you provide them with everything s/he needs to live a comfortable life. If dogs feel safe and fulfilled in their environments, they will be devoted to the hand who made it possible. These needs are more than just providing food and shelter. It means creating a living environment where your dog feels totally safe. Here’s a list of needs every dog has, and if you meet all of them, your dog will be loyal forever: A dog needs a safe place to sleep where s/he is protected from harsh weather conditions and has a peaceful night’s rest. The safer your dog feels at night, the better s/he will sleep, and the more trust s/he will put in you. A dog needs a reliable food schedule, so s/he doesn’t feel the need to scavenge for food by her-/himself. A dog needs enough physical and mental stimulation so that s/he won’t get bored. Some owners take this need for granted, but your dog needs daily stimulation. The less bored s/he is and the more attention you give, the better your bond will be, and thus the loyalty as well. A dog needs a person who ensures the dog’s health is as good as possible. In this case, dogs need preventative measures like vaccines, deworming, and tick and flea prevention to ensure they don’t get sick. A dog needs grooming according to their needs. Some dogs need more frequent grooming than others. But if these practices are neglected, dogs can get serious skin infections or painful mats. A dog needs social interactions, whether with other people or dogs. They are social beings and thrive in social settings. These are all the basic needs of each dog. If an owner doesn’t meet these needs, it can place unwanted stress on the dog and diminish the level of trust s/he has. Think about it. If a dog feels unsafe in the pack, it means the pack doesn’t have their back. In turn, it means that s/he doesn’t have to be loyal to someone who couldn’t ensure their survival. Dogs may experience an emotion similar to how we experience love. Studies show that the part of a puppy’s brain similar to a person’s love centre lights up when s/he smells their human’s scent. These scientists examined the activity in dogs’ brains when they smelled different items like toys and food, etc. It was only when an item of clothing of the owner was presented to the dogs that the part associated with love lit up. So, scientists believe that dogs can feel a form of love, especially toward their owners. We all know that love is a powerful emotion, and we would do anything for those we love. Similarly, dogs who love us will do anything to protect us or make us happy. That support and devotion is the epitome of loyalty. Why Puppies Become Your Best Friend Dogs provide a sense of companionship that starts forming when you bring your puppy home. There’s more to dogs than having another living being in the house. It also means that you get a best friend for as long as s/he lives. Having this canine friend in your corner means you’ll never be lonely. You’ll learn valuable lessons and benefit from each other’s company while stimulating the dog’s instincts. Let’s have a closer look at what this means: Your dog is always there for you, no matter what: Like unconditional love and loyalty, your dog will always be there for you to provide comfort, companionship, and love. It is the type of friend you can always count on. You and your dog learn from each other: Both dog and owner can learn many valuable lessons from each other. For instance, dogs learn how to act appropriately in the human world. On the other hand, people can learn the true meaning of unconditional love and how to protect a sentient being. You and your dog have a mutually beneficial relationship: You already know that your dog benefits from meeting their needs, but you can benefit from a dog in your life. Some people experience less stress because of their dogs, and others feel less lonely (see the benefits of getting a puppy below). It’s in your dog’s nature to befriend you, the caretaker: Becoming your friend goes hand in hand with your dog’s instinct to be in a pack. You are now your dog’s pack family and therefore get to experience the joy of canine friendship. How Getting a Puppy Benefit Your Life Most people don’t get puppies for the sake of getting one. They have reasons for adopting these pups. The most common reasons are that people seek unconditional companionship or they’d like to feel less lonely at home. Although these are the most common reasons, other benefits of getting a puppy might surprise you. These benefits are: Research shows that puppies reduce people’s stress levels (Companion animals and human health): Studies show that people with dogs experience lower stress levels than those without dogs. It’s probably because petting a dog releases the feel-good hormone (oxytocin) and decreases the stress hormone (cortisol). Puppies provide protection (in the long run): Although your puppy can’t necessarily protect you against harm now, s/he will grow up with a strong urge to keep you safe as s/he grows up. It can be protecting you against harm or warning you of any potential dangers, etc. Having a puppy makes you more active: It doesn’t matter which dog breed you get; they all need to be active to keep their physical health top-notch. Most dogs need to go for daily walks, so the more you walk your dog, the more active you become. Research shows that people with dogs have better heart health: Studies show that people with dogs have lower blood pressure. That’s probably because stress is a massive contributor to heart conditions. So, because a dog can help lower your stress levels, s/he contributes to your heart health as well. Having a puppy curbs loneliness: This one is quite obvious, but getting a dog will make you feel less lonely. Whether it’s the pup’s mere presence in an otherwise quiet home or their physical touch, it provides company. Getting a puppy can make you more social: Let’s be honest; a puppy is a great conversation piece. Wherever you go, you can use your puppy as a buffer for conversation. Not only do you have something to talk about if things get awkward, but you’ll seem more approachable to other people, setting you up for social success. It’s interesting to note that studies proved people with dogs make friends easier than those without dogs. Puppies can help people cope in crises: If you are prone to anxiety or other conditions like post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD), then a puppy can help you manage when you have an episode. Usually, if these conditions are severe, you would get a service dog who is trained on how to react to an episode. But even people with mild cases of anxiety or everyday stressors will benefit from the calming effect dogs have. Chapter 2: Choosing Your Puppy Getting a puppy is such an exciting journey, and everyone walks this path differently. Some people do lots of research before choosing a puppy, while others go with the first puppy available. While there isn’t necessarily something wrong with adopting the first available puppy, a few things are to consider. If you don’t, you might end up with a pooch that doesn’t quite fit into your lifestyle. There are so many things to think about when choosing your pup. The choices are almost unlimited regarding the breed, background, temperament, activity level, etc. It can feel a little overwhelming if you’re unsure what to look for. But we’re here to make your decision-making process easier by guiding your thought process regarding the dog you want. What Do You Want From a Dog? When you consider getting a puppy, think about how the pup will fit into your lifestyle. Try to look past the cute puppy phase and think about the type of adult dog you’d want in your life. The puppy phase doesn’t last long, and you will have an adult dog for much longer than the puppy itself. So, it’s essential to ask yourself what type of adult dog you want in your future (a year or more from now). The most important decision you can make is to ensure that s/he fits in well enough to adapt quickly. Not only are you choosing a puppy that suits your way of life, but you’re also considering whether this dog will be happy in your family by adapting well. Each consideration will help you choose the type of dog you really need. Remember, it doesn’t matter how badly you want a specific dog breed; if their temperaments and personality traits don’t fit into your lifestyle, they might not be the type of dog you need. So, when choosing a puppy, think about the following aspects of your life: How active are you? Your level of activity and whether you’d like to make your dog part of your activity level are vital considerations. Some people want to go on hikes or long walks with their dogs. Others might not enjoy such an active lifestyle (or they simply don’t have enough time in the day to do it). If you are a more active person, you will do well with the type of dog that can keep up with your energy levels. On the other hand, if you don’t want to be as active, you would do well with a dog that’s perfectly happy basking in the sun the whole day. How affectionate are you with dogs? Are you the type of person that like to give lots of hugs and kisses, or are you not that fond of physical touch? Answering this question will determine whether you need a dog that tolerates (or even craves) the owner’s physical touch or one that doesn’t like to be touched as often. Because many people want dogs as companions, this aspect is crucial, so you and your dog have the same tolerance for embrace and snuggles. How much time do you have to spend on a dog per day? Some dogs need more attention than others. High energy dogs usually get bored quickly, so they need to spend more time with their owners, participating in stimulating activities. Lower energy dogs are those who prefer to sleep most of the day. So, when you answer this question, don’t just think about the type of dog you’d like. Also, think about how much time you can dedicate to your dog every day for the next 10-15 years. Yes, puppies will need more attention than when they get older. But considering your amount of dog-dedicated time per day, you can ensure that you and your dog get enough stimulation from this mutually beneficial relationship. How much effort do you want to put into grooming practices? How often will you be able to groom your dog yourself? If you don’t want to groom your dog yourself, how often can you make an appointment at the grooming salon? Some dogs have high maintenance coats that need weekly attention, while others can go without a brush for two months. So, research how often the dog of your choice would need grooming and whether you’re ready for the responsibility. How much time do you want to put into training? Most dogs need basic training to help adapt their behaviours to their new world. This training will usually include house training, basic obedience, and walking on a lead without pulling. Then, you can advance your dog’s training by taking it a step further. While keeping this in mind, know that some dogs are more eager to learn and work for their owners than others. That’s why you should consider how much time you have to train your dog. For instance, a Belgian Malinois loves to work and have a purpose, thus needing lots of training. On the other hand, a Pug likes to be lazy and not work as hard, thus not needing as much training. How big is your living environment? It’s a common misconception that all small dog breeds do well in smaller apartments, while large dog breeds need large yards. Sometimes it can be the other way around. It all depends on your dog’s energy levels and how much physical stimulation s/he needs each day. If you live in a small apartment, consider getting a dog that doesn’t mind sleeping most of the day. However, if you are an active person in a small apartment, consider whether you’ll have enough time to take your dog for walks twice a day. To help you choose a dog breed, make a list of the breeds you’d prefer and their characteristics based on the questions above. Then determine which breeds will adapt best to you and your family’s way of life. Some people might not want purebred dogs and prefer a mixed breed dog. If this is the case, you can usually find mixed breed dogs at your local dog rescue centre. There the staff should be able to help you pinpoint each puppy’s temperament so you can make the best choice possible. How to Choose a Puppy From a Breeder If you’re at the point where you know what dog breed you’d want, you should think about how to choose the puppy from the breeder. Keep in mind that there are many legitimate breeders that know what they’re doing. But unfortunately, some people use unethical practices when breeding dogs, which can impact the type of puppy you get. So, when you choose a puppy from a breeder, follow the guidelines below to make the best decision possible. Ask to see the mum and dad. If the pup’s mum and dad are healthy, the puppies will be too. So, ask the breeder if you can see the mum and dad up close. Some breeders only have the mum on-site, but you can still ask to see a picture of the dad. If there are any malformations in either, the chances are that they could be genetically passed down to the puppies as well. Look at the living quarters of the puppies. As you look at these quarters, observe whether the puppies have shelter, water, something to keep them warm, and good hygiene. How the puppies live will tell you a lot about the puppies’ breeding practices and health. Be sceptical if a breeder doesn’t want to show you the living quarters. As harsh as it sounds, some breeders put dogs and puppies in cages just to sell one after the other. However, ethical dog breeders will be more than happy to show you where the pups live. Look at the puppy’s physical appearance. As you look at the litter, look at how each puppy appears physically. By looking at the puppy’s physicality, you can tell whether you’ll have long term issues that might cost a fortune to fix or not. So, look at the following: Head: There is a spot on the top of the puppy’s head that is softer than the rest of the head. This spot shouldn’t be larger than a penny. Otherwise, it means the skull might have fractures. Eyes: The puppy’s eyes should be clear and open easily without redness, swelling, or discharge. Ears: The puppy’s ear canals should be dry and odourless. If it is moist, red, and stinky, it could mean that the puppy already has ear infections. Nose: The puppy should breathe easily through the nose without making excessive strenuous noises. The nose can also have slight colourless discharges, which is normal. Mouth: Most puppys’ upper and lower teeth should align, but some might have an underbite specific to the breed, like a bulldog. The puppy’s tongue and gums should be pink and moist and not dry and sticky. Skin: The puppy’s skin shouldn’t be dry, flaking, have fluid-filled bumps, or be red. Coat: The puppy’s coat should be shiny and have no areas of hair loss. See how the litter mates interact with each other. How puppies interact with one another will tell you a lot about their temperament and characteristics. Some puppies might shy away from other pups and keep busy in the corner, while others might engage in roughish play. This part is essential to choosing the puppy from the litter that best suits your lifestyle. Find a puppy with a temperament you like. Each puppy in the litter may have a different temperament than the other. Some might be more shy or timid, while others are more assertive and curious. Think about which temperament you prefer and look for the puppy that’s the closest match to that. Ask the breeder these questions: What health issues do the mum and dad have? The mum and dad’s health history gives an insight into the puppy’s possible health issues. Some conditions can be passed down genetically, while others won’t affect the pup at all. Your breeder could answer these questions. What health prevention or vaccines do the puppies get? Do the puppies get vaccinations and deworming treatments? If so, how often do they get them and will the breeder provide you with proof, like a vaccination card? Vaccinations and deworming will keep the pups from getting fatal transmittable diseases. When can we take the puppy home? Puppies can usually go to their new homes at 8-12 weeks. It might be a red flag if a breeder wants to give you the puppy earlier. Puppies learn to be dogs and socialise through interaction with their mother and littermates. Are you a registered breeder? Okay, not all breeders have to be registered necessarily, but a registered breeder will be more likely to do proper breeding practices and provide healthy puppies. The easiest way to do this research is to see the puppies for yourself. Take your time when you do these observations. The more intently you look at each puppy, the environment, and the parents, the better decision you can make on which one to choose. How to Choose a Puppy From a Rescue Centre If you don’t want to get a puppy from a breeder and prefer to adopt one from a rescue centre, there are other guidelines for choosing the right puppy. There are similarities to selecting a pup from a breeder. The difference is that you won’t necessarily be able to meet the parents, see the original living quarters when the puppies were born, or know the exact history of the puppy. Don’t let that stop you, though. Adopting a puppy means you’re giving the home s/he deserves! So, here are things to consider when choosing a puppy from a rescue centre: Visit the puppy at the rescue centre: Again, there is nothing as insightful as seeing where the puppy lives, how s/he reacts with other dogs, and how s/he interacts with you and your family. When you visit the puppy, you can do the same physical appearance checks as when choosing a pup from a breeder. It will help you determine whether the puppy will have long term health issues. Select reputable charities and rescue centres, such as the Dog Trust. Most breeds have breed specific rescue centres as well (for example, Beagle Welfare). Ask about the puppy’s health issues or condition s/he was when coming to the centre initially. Sometimes the centre staff could tell you where the puppies were rescued from, e.g. the streets or a loving home whose dog gave birth, but they couldn’t afford eight puppies. Other times the staff won’t know about the health history or diseases. That’s okay too. As long as you gather as much information as possible, you can choose a puppy wisely. See whether you like the puppy’s temperament during your visit. Play with the puppies you visit. See which one’s temperament and behaviours you gravitate towards the most. It could be as simple as sitting on the floor and seeing which puppy comes to you first. Or it could be the puppy that hovers around you the most. When you see one with a temperament you like, s/he will likely adapt easier to your way of life. See how the puppy interacts with other dogs or puppies. If you have other dogs at home, this step is crucial. If the puppy is aggressive toward other dogs, you might consider getting a different one. How puppies interact with one another tells a lot about how they’ll behave in social situations. Find out what breed the puppy is. It won’t always be easy, but if you can pinpoint the breed, you can research those breeds’ pros and cons. The more you know about a puppy before you get one, the easier both of you will adapt. Choosing a puppy is fun-filled and exciting, but getting the right puppy for your family is even more exhilarating. There is nothing quite like getting a pup that effortlessly fits into your lifestyle! So, make this decision for you and your family. Don’t choose a puppy based on a movie you’ve seen or because someone else’s dog seems nice. It might be that those dogs had lots of training before getting to that point. All that matters is whether you and your puppy will go together like peanut butter and jelly! Chapter 3: Preparing Yourself and Your Home for the Pup Before you even get your puppy, there are a few things to think about, like preparing yourself and your home. Although your home is perfect for yourself and your family to live in, it might not necessarily be puppy-friendly enough. Because puppies don’t know the lay of the land yet, you need to prepare your home to keep them safe while teaching them boundaries. So, let’s look at some tips and tricks to keep your puppy out of harm’s way. Prepare Your Home When you prepare your home keep the new little furry friend in mind. Look around and ask yourself whether the puppy will be safe and comfortable in each room. As you do this, remove or secure potential hazards and create cosy nooks to ensure a puppy-friendly area. Here are the tips and tricks to prepare your home: Barricade entrances to off-limits areas. Decide which areas you don’t want your woofer to go, whether it’s rooms you wish to keep dog-free or whether it’s to keep your pup out of harm’s way. For example, some people don’t want dogs to go into their bedrooms. Other times people put a puppy gate at the top and bottom of stairs to keep the pups from falling. So, block the entrances to areas where your puppy could be in harm’s way or where you don’t want them to go. Lock cleaning chemicals away. Be mindful of where you store your cleaning chemicals. Puppies don’t know that it can make them sick, so they might ingest it if they get the chance. So, be sure that you safely store the cleaning chemicals where your pooch can’t reach them. Even if you keep those supplies in a bottom cabinet, ask yourself whether your puppy will be able to open the door. If so, consider moving the chemicals to a top-shelf. Secure loose wires and electric cables. Puppies tend to chew on everything at first, so ensure that your puppy can’t reach the electric wires or cables. It can cause serious electric harm to the pup if s/he chews on one of those wires, and it can even be fatal. Not only can a puppy chew on the cables, but they can trip over them and drag items to fall on top of them, causing unwanted injuries as well as mess in the house. Put items on side tables or coffee tables away. Any objects on coffee tables or side tables that are not secure in place can fall over and harm your puppy. So, ask yourself what the likelihood of the item falling down is. If it’s a high probability, secure the item so it won’t fall or store it somewhere else until the puppy is old enough not to bump things off. Store medications out of reach. Many human medications are hazardous to a dog’s health. So, instead of keeping medicine where a puppy can reach it, store it someplace safe. For example, some people keep their medication on the bedside table, but if your pup sleeps on your bed, s/he can get hold of the pills. Keep windows and doors closed. While puppies still figure out how to manoeuvre their bodies, keep doors and windows closed, so they don’t accidentally fall or jump out and get hurt. Be mindful of this, especially if you live in an apartment or where your pup can fall far down. Ensure that the bin is secured. Puppies are curious little things and will explore anything that smells alluring. It includes accidentally bumping over the trash can for further investigation. Then the puppies can chew or swallow items that are either not good for their diet, get stuck in their throats, or seriously harm them. So, ensure your bin is secured in place or stored away from your pup’s reach. Keep dangerous house plants out of reach. There are so many houseplants that are toxic to dogs and can cause harmful side effects. So, do some research about the house plants in your area that are hazardous to dogs. Then, if you have some of those, either get rid of them or ensure that your puppy can’t reach them and start chewing on them. Create a safe space to sleep. Get your furry-friend a dog bed and blanket or pillow. A puppy must have a place to nap where s/he can feel safe. When these pups were still in a litter, they counted on their littermates and mum to help keep them warm. Now that the puppy doesn’t have that anymore, s/he needs a cosy spot to meet those needs. A dog crate with the door off and a blanket inside is the perfect safety nest for a pup. The first night can be challenging, read our article on the subject to get you and your puppy set up for a calm First Night at Home. Prepare Your Garden Just like making your home puppy-safe, you should do the same with your garden, paddock, or any outside area your puppy will have access to. Here are some things to consider when doing that: Fencing so your puppy can’t escape. Ensure that you barricade your outside area properly so your little trouble can’t escape. Some fences have large holes where the pup can fit through, so consider adding reinforced material (like mesh) to keep the puppy from squeezing through. Keep your puppy away from hazardous plants. Again, many garden plants are toxic to dogs. So, research the plants you have in your garden and whether they’re safe for your puppy. If not, consider either getting rid of the plants or putting up barriers so your puppy can’t reach them. We have already written an article detailing poisonous garden plants, which you might find helpful. Lock garden or pool chemicals away. Be careful of any garden or pool chemicals lying around. Your puppy can ingest them and get very sick. So, consider locking it away in a shed, cupboard, or shelf high enough so the pooch can’t reach them. Block access to pools or ponds. Keep in mind that this is only applicable if you're lucky enough to have a pool or pond built into the ground. Most puppies have an instinct to swim, so a pool or pond isn’t dangerous because a puppy can’t swim. It’s dangerous because the puppies get shocked when falling into the water and panic. They also don’t know where the steps are to exit the water. So, until you didn’t teach this to your puppy numerous times, block access to pools or ponds. Provide enough shelter from the elements. Give puppies protection from weather elements like the sun, wind, or rain, especially if they will spend most of their time outside. And when it snows, bring your puppy inside. Some people prefer to leave their dogs out when they go to work, and that’s perfectly fine. As long as the dog has a shelter, s/he should be fine. With this in mind, think about how comfortable the puppy will be in the sheltered area. Is it warm enough, cool enough, doesn’t let the wind through, and is water-resistant? Have fresh water available. Your puppy should always have fresh water available both inside and outside every day (unless your vet advises you otherwise). Puppies can quickly get dehydrated, so they need continuous access to water. And you’ll have to put out fresh water every day to ensure that there aren’t any bacteria, fungus, or parasites that can enter your puppy’s system. If you have a lawn, keep it trimmed. Ticks and parasites usually like to hide in the long grass. So if you have a yard, ensure that it is cut regularly. Have a designated toileting area and keep it clean. Create a designated toileting area for your pup and pick up the faeces as soon as possible. It helps keep the site hygienic and prevents the puppy from eating the excretions. Prepare Yourself Next, you have to be prepared for all aspects of puppy parenthood. Take some time to research the puppy you’re getting and how to be a good puppy parent. Here are some tips and tricks that might help: Know what to expect from your puppy Every puppy is different, so prepare yourself for your specific puppy. You can consult your breeder, the rescue centre, or even your vet. As you do this, find out more about your puppy’s: Feeding schedule: what, how much, how often, and when should s/he eat? House training needs: is s/he housetrained? (if not, read the next chapter) Amount of exercise needed: It’s usually 5 minutes per month of age daily Your puppy’s character traits: every breed has different character traits, so be prepared for what your puppy’s characteristics may be Choose your local vet Look for the local veterinarians in your area and choose one as your go-to vet for your puppy. It’s good to narrow this down because you won’t have time to do this research in an emergency. Also, ensure that you have an emergency number written down. What will you do with the puppy when you work or travel? Dogs should usually not be home alone for more than 6 hours. It may be shorter for puppies, especially when they first arrive at their new homes. So, consider taking your puppy to daycare, getting a pet sitter, or having a friend or family member look after the pup. Until you’re confident your puppy can cope when home alone, don’t let them be alone for too long at first. Equipment You’ll Need Crate or carrier Playpen Collar or harness ID tag Lead Poop bags Food and water bowls Puppy food Food storing container Food measuring scoop Feeding mat Training treats (ideal ones include our Training Treats, Sprats and Rabbit ears) Treat bag Wipes or cleaning products Brush Dog-friendly shampoo (see our selection of natural Dog shampoos) Dog-friendly toothbrush and toothpaste Nail clippers Ear cleaning solution Toys Puppy training pads - we would advise against using these, and discussed it thoroughly in our House Training a Puppy article Chapter 4: Housetraining Your Puppy Housetraining is probably one of the first and most important things you can teach your puppy. You can start with this training from the moment the puppy enters your home. Remember that your puppy doesn’t have bladder control yet, and s/he doesn’t know where the appropriate place is to go. So, it is up to you to teach your puppy these things. Don’t worry, though. We’ll teach you what you need to know to start this house-training journey. Things to Know Before Housetraining Your Puppy Before we get to the step-by-step guide, there are a few things you need to know before you start housetraining your puppy. Knowing these things will make the training so much easier for both you and the pup. Create a Designated Housetraining Area All dogs rely on scent to know where they’re supposed to do their business, and if there isn’t a spot with a familiar smell, they will go anywhere. So, it is helpful to dedicate a specific place in your garden or on the patio. As puppies recognise their elimination scent in that spot, it will help them associate the particular area with elimination practices. So, when you housetrain your puppy, go to the same site every time. It will help the pup learn where to eliminate quicker. However, if you live in an apartment, consider getting an artificial toileting area (there are loads available online) or take your puppy to the same nearest grass area outside your apartment every time. Signs Your Puppy Needs to Go Although puppies will usually get into a routine quickly when housetraining, you should watch for signs your puppy needs to go. Knowing these signs will help prevent messes inside the house and minimise the clean-ups. So, the sooner you can spot that your puppy needs to go, the sooner you can take them to the designated area. These signs are: Sniffing around the house Moving in circles Squatting Whining, barking, or scratching at the door leading to the designated area Being restless Sniffing at or licking the groin area Going back to a spot in the house where s/he messed before Staring at you for longer than usual Remember, though, not to shout or freak out when your puppy shows these signs. It can scare them, eventually leading to messing in the house in areas you won’t notice. This usually happens because the puppy is too scared to do it out in the open and doesn’t fully understand exactly where to do its business yet. Puppies Won’t Go Where They Sleep: Why a Crate is a Useful Tool Dogs are pretty hygienic when it comes to their sleeping areas. They usually won’t do their business where they’re supposed to sleep. So, a helpful tool with housetraining is a crate as your dog’s sleeping area. Some people don’t think that crates are humane, but if you introduce your puppy slowly, your pup will learn to love to sleep in them. S/he might even prefer it as it simulates a safe den. It would be best to get your puppy used to the crate first. It will ensure s/he feels safe and doesn’t associate a traumatic experience with the crate. Getting puppies used to crates is easy. Here’s how to do it: Put your pup’s blanket inside, creating a cosy, safe space Leave the crate door open (or even take it off at first until s/he gets used to it) Lure your puppy inside with a treat (Browse suitable chews and treats on our Puppy Treats page) Once s/he gets inside, give the treat as a reward Reward your little fur-ball every time s/he goes into the crate willingly As your puppy gets used to the crate, s/he can learn how to be comfortable with the doors closed. Here’s how to teach it: Once your pup is comfortable (give it a week or so), put the crate door back When s/he goes inside, close the door briefly (one or two seconds) Reward your pup with a treat and open the door Do this a few times, increasing the time the door is closed by a few seconds each time At first, sit where your pup can see you so s/he knows s/he’s not alone Soon, you can step away for a few seconds before opening the door Finally, your pup will be comfortable sleeping in the crate even if you’re in another room This technique helps prevent unnecessary spoils inside the house if you can’t watch your puppy for an hour or so. Just be mindful of how long your puppy is inside the crate because s/he can’t hold it for too long. S/he will have to go to the designated area every 2-4 hours. Positive Reinforcement Works Better Than Negative Reinforcement Some people still believe that you have to push your puppy’s nose into the spoiled mess forcefully and shout at them. Unfortunately, all this does is traumatise the pup and can cause increased anxiety. Dogs respond so much better to positive reinforcement. Not only are they less stressed, but they also get rewarded for a job well done. These rewards encourage them to repeat the behaviour that led to the prize, making acceptable behaviours easier for them to grasp. So, use positive reinforcement and try not to scold your pup for messing in the house. Accidents happen, and scolding them will only regress the training done to that point. When Puppies Are Fully Housetrained There are many promises that you can fully housetrain a puppy in a few days, which is simply not true. Yes, you can teach your pooch how to show you when s/he needs to go. S/he will even learn where to go and what the potty schedule is. However, puppies don’t have complete control over their bladders until they are 4-6 months old. Don’t worry. It doesn’t mean that your puppy will not have any control. S/he should be able to hold it in for about 2 hours at first. But if the bladder is full, s/he won’t have the control to keep it in a bit longer. This means that your puppy can still have accidents. So, you still have to keep to a schedule and watch your puppy minimise the messes inside the house until s/he’s 4-6 months old. A Housetraining Schedule Something that would make housetraining so much easier for you and your pup is a housetraining schedule. Although puppies can’t control their eliminations just yet, they will form some routine. For instance, at first, your puppy would probably need to go every 2-4 hours. Once you’ve established your puppy’s unique timeframe, you can make a schedule for taking your puppy out when the timer goes off. You can also jot down when puppies usually need to go. It is pretty easy to predict, and if you make it part of the housetraining schedule, you could avoid many spoils in your home. When puppies usually need to go: First thing in the morning 15-45 minutes after eating a meal Every 2-4 hours After playtime Right before going to bed at night Initially, every 4 hours during the night Remember to keep an eye out for those telltale signs that your puppy might need to go. Puppies could still need to go at other times than those set in your schedule. But the closer you keep to a program, the sooner the pup will fall into step with the routine. How to Housetrain Your Puppy: Step-by-Step Housetraining a puppy is easy, but you need to be consistent, calm and use positive instead of negative reinforcement. So, have a jar of bite-sized treats ready to grab whenever you need to take your puppy to the designated potty spot. You can also put your puppy’s collar and lead it close to the door to put it on your pup on the way out. It would help keep the puppy’s attention to the task at hand without getting distracted and forgetting what s/he needs to do. Follow these steps every time you take your fluff-ball on a potty break as per your puppy’s unique housetraining schedule: Grab some treats and put your puppy’s collar and lead on. Take your pup to the designated potty spot at your scheduled times or when your puppy shows signs that s/he needs to go. Give your puppy your chosen housetraining cue, like “potty.” It will help your puppy learn when being outside means play or exercise and when it’s time for elimination practices. After giving the cue, don’t say any word from that point and stay at the potty spot until s/he goes. It’s important not to distract the puppy by talking or doing anything other than the task at hand. Wait until your puppy is finished and give a verbal reward, like “good puppy” followed by a tasty treat. If your puppy didn’t go within 5-10 minutes, go back inside, wait 5-10 minutes, and try steps 1-5 again. There is no point in dwelling outside if your puppy doesn’t want to go right away. Repeat steps 1-5 every time you take your puppy outside. The more consistent you are, the quicker your pup will understand the housetraining routines, and the less effort you will have to put into the training. What to Do if Your Puppy is About to Mess Inside the House? How you handle this type of situation impacts all other housetraining efforts directly. So, be careful not to shout at your pup or scare them as it can diminish your progress so far. Instead, here’s how to properly manage this situation: If you catch your puppy in the act, say a stern “no.” It should be loud enough, so your puppy understands that spoiling in the home is not allowed, yet gentle enough not to scare your puppy. Pick your puppy up immediately and take them to the designated spot. If you have time, grab the treats, collar, and lead. If you don’t, that’s okay. Just get to the potty spot as soon as possible. Follow the initial steps (2-6) as if you’re taking your puppy out on a routine housetraining outing. After you follow those steps and your pup does the deed, it’s essential to clean up any mess inside the house. Be sure to use cleaning products that get rid of the smell because not all house cleaning products do this. If there is any trace of the spoil left, your puppy will smell it and see that spot as a good potty spot, increasing the chance of a repeated mess inside the house. What If Your Puppy Already Messed Inside the House But You Didn’t See It Happening? There’s not much you can do other than sharping up your observations and preventing it from happening again. Because dogs learn in the moment, your pup won’t remember what s/he did wrong if you scold them for something they did more than a few seconds ago. If you try to correct the behaviour, your puppy will not understand why and what s/he could have done differently. Instead, s/he might associate the action of elimination with getting scolded, leading to a mess in the house again. But this time, the spoil will be somewhere you won’t see it for a while (like behind a couch or under a bed) because s/he thinks elimination will lead to punishment. Remember, accidents happen. In fact, you can expect a few accidents until your puppy has complete control of the bladder. All you can do is clean the mess so your puppy doesn’t associate that spot with a potty area next time. Even if you can’t smell it, puppies still can, so clean it thoroughly. So, be sure that you observe your puppy more closely next time. It may even be time to tweak the housetraining schedule a bit. And always clean any messes Chapter 5: Basic Cues to Teach Your Puppy There are a few basic cues any puppy owner can start teaching their puppies. These cues are essential to setting boundaries, creating a solid puppy-owner bond, and stimulating your puppy’s mind. These cues will set your future training practices up for success by creating a solid foundation when your puppy’s mind is still like a sponge. Helpful Tips Before Training Your Puppy Before starting with the step-by-step training guides, consider a few training tips. Knowing and implementing these suggestions will make training easier, getting the most out of each training session. The more consistently you implement these tips, the quicker your puppy will learn and the more training success you will have. Positive Reinforcement Works The basis of your reward system should be positive reinforcement. Like people, dogs need some reward showing them that they did something right. Using a high-quality reward that your puppy will love will prompt them to repeat activities that led to the reward in the first place. For instance, if you give your puppy a treat after sitting on command, s/he will reperform the task with more ease and willingness than when s/he didn’t receive a reward. Some people correct or scold their dogs if they don’t do as the owner asks. All this does is shut the dog’s mind down, making it less likely that information will be retained. So, don’t scold your dog. Instead, be patient and try the training steps again if your dog struggles. Using Markers Alongside Positive Reinforcement A marker is a sound you make to let your puppy know which exact action s/he just performed correctly. It could be a simple word, like “yes,” or it can be a clicker. For example, if you teach your puppy to sit, say “yes” or make a click the moment your puppy’s bum touches the ground. This way, s/he associates the correct action with the command you use. Without markers, dogs can get confused about what the owners want them to do. For example, if you teach your puppy to come to you, s/he might associate the command “come” with standing up from a sit instead of the action of walking toward you. So, it is essential to mark the action associated with your cue. Then, after you’ve given the marker, you can give a reward. The reward is a motivator, so your puppy repeats this acceptable behaviour in the future. So, to sum it up: A marker marks the correct action A reward is a positive reinforcement tool showing your pup s/he did something right You can use toys or treats as rewards. Our Training Treats ideal to use for little rewards as they are just a small piece ideal for little pup mouths and also they are low in calories but high in protein as they are 100% pure meat. Sprats are also great or if you want to give your pup a ‘bigger’ reward at the end of the session, Rabbit ears would be a good option. How Long to Train Your Puppy Every Day Puppies don’t have large attention spans, so don’t over-train them. Overtraining can make a puppy bored and cause them to dislike training in general. Instead, train your puppy for 5-10 minutes sessions at a time. You can include 1-5 sessions daily, depending on your puppy’s eagerness to learn or your available schedule. As you do these sessions, also add some variety to the training. For example, don’t just teach your puppy to sit in one session. Try to vary two different cues. It keeps your puppy’s mind sharp, and don’t let them predict which command comes next. Consistency is Key With every training session, puppies learn quicker when their owners use the same techniques, step-by-step guides, reward systems, markers, verbal cues, and rewards. Because dogs are creatures of habit that thrive on structure, consistency will make your training even more successful. Even if there comes a day when your puppy doesn’t want to learn, don’t lose heart or patience but stay consistent. Set Your Puppy Up for Success It’s easy to get frustrated when our puppies don’t do as we ask, no matter how well we follow trainers’ advice and expertise. The fact is that your puppy will struggle at times. S/he won’t always be receptive to training, or some days s/he will struggle to understand you in training sessions. However, you can still do a few things to set your puppy up for success: Start each training session in an area with little to no distractions. The fewer distractions there are, the easier your puppy can focus on the task at hand. Only when your puppy reliably does a command in the quiet room can you move to an area with more distractions. The idea is that your puppy listens to your cues no matter the number of distractions. So, by slowly increasing your pup’s ability to listen and tolerate distractions, you will have more control in busy areas like the dog park. When you train a cue (e.g. “sit”), only say the word once. You want your puppy to learn that when you ask once, s/he should perform the associated action. If you use the command more than once, your puppy can learn that it’s okay to wait until you say it several times before s/he should comply. If your puppy fails to do a cue, try the step-by-step instructions again. Some puppies take longer to grasp a concept than others, and that’s okay. Never reward your puppy if s/he didn’t do exactly what you’ve asked. All this does is create confusion when training your puppy in the future. End each training session successfully. This means that your puppy should successfully perform the activity associated with the last cue you give in that session. So, if you’re teaching your puppy something new and s/he struggles to grasp it, let your puppy perform an action s/he already knows before ending the session. Finishing your training with success gives your puppy confidence and makes future training exciting. If you’re increasing the difficulty level of your training and your puppy makes a mistake, start the training steps from scratch. For example, imagine you’re teaching your puppy to stay, you’re increasing the difficulty from stepping two feet away to three, and your puppy moves out of the stay position. Then, go back to the basics and start the training as if your puppy has never done it before. This simple trick will help rewire your puppy’s brain and help prevent any bad behaviours from forming. Your Step-by-Step Training Guides Here are your basic step-by-step training guides to teach your puppy the essential cues. It is the most straightforward way to get your puppy to understand each action and get them to perform the task as you command reliably. Teaching Your Puppy to Sit Get some bite-sized treats your puppy will love Start the training session in a quiet room with few distractions Stand in front of your puppy, ensuring that s/he stands as well Hold one treat between your thumb and index finger Hold the treat just above your puppy’s nose Say your command, e.g. “sit.” Then, slowly move the treat over your puppy’s head. The idea is that the bum goes down when the head goes up. The moment your puppy’s bum touches the ground, mark the action with a “yes.” After marking the action, give a treat as a reward Repeat steps 1-8 a few times every day until your puppy understands what to do. Then, slowly introduce more distractions so your puppy can learn to do the command no matter how many distractions. Training Your Puppy Lie Down Your puppy must know how to sit before teaching the “down” cue. Grab some treats and stand in front of your puppy. Start the training session in a quiet room with few distractions Hold a treat against your puppy’s nose, ensuring that s/he doesn’t eat it prematurely Give your chosen command, e.g. “down.” Slowly move the treat straight down to the floor. Your puppy’s head should follow the treat. Hold the treat tightly on the floor until your puppy lies down. The moment your pup’s whole body is on the floor, mark the action and give a reward If your puppy doesn’t lie down, follow steps 1-6. Then, move the treat away from your puppy while still on the floor. Your puppy should also lie down as a treat moves away on the floor. Be patient. This step might take a while for some puppies to grasp. Follow steps 1-7 (or 1-6 and 8) depending on how fast your puppy grasped the concept. When your puppy reliably lies down on cue, you can start to increase the distractions, e.g. taking the training to a louder room or outside. Teaching Your Puppy to Stay Before teaching the “stay” command, your puppy must know the “sit” cue. Also, keep in mind that a “stay” and “wait” are two different cues. The stay cue is when you want your puppy to stay in one spot until you return to them. So, only use the stay command when you’ll walk away from your puppy and return again. Get some treats and start in a quiet room, getting your puppy to sit beside you. Say your cue, e.g. “stay”, and give one small step forward. After one second, return to your puppy’s side, mark the action, and give a treat as a reward. Repeat steps 1-3 a few times until your puppy reliably stays in place when you move away. Then, increase the time you step away from your puppy slowly. For example, stay away for two seconds, then three, then four, then three again. Varying the time spent away with smaller and longer timeframes will also prevent your puppy from predicting when you’ll return. It’s essential that you first increase the time before you increase the distance. When your puppy stays in place for about 30 seconds reliably each time, you can slowly increase the distance. For example, start with two steps, then three, then four, etc. If your puppy reliably stays for 30 seconds and about three feet away, you can increase the number of distractions and repeat training steps 2-6. Training Your Puppy to Wait Before teaching the “wait” command, your puppy must know the “sit” cue. Also, keep in mind that a “stay” and “wait” are two different cues. The wait cue is when you want your puppy to wait until you give another command. For example, a wait is perfect for keeping your puppy in place while putting down food. So, only use the wait command if you’ll walk away from your puppy but won’t return to your pup again. Like the “stay” cue, stand next to your sitting puppy in a quiet room Give your chosen cue, e.g. “wait”, and give one step away from your puppy. Then, use a word that means the wait is over, for instance, “finish.” As you do this, place the treat on the floor, so your puppy gets out of the waiting position and moves to get the treat. Repeat steps 1-3 until your puppy reliably waits in place. Increase the difficulty level by stepping away from your puppy and placing the treat on the floor before giving the “finish” command. This means your puppy has to wait until s/he gets the go-ahead. If your puppy moves before getting the finish signal, start steps 1-5 from scratch This cue is perfect for training just before mealtime. So, instead of putting the treat on the floor, use your puppy’s meal as the reward. Teaching Your Puppy to Come When Called This cue can be lifesaving, especially in busy public environments, to call your dog back from a potentially dangerous situation. Before teaching your puppy to come when called, your pup should be able to wait in place for about three feet and 30 seconds. Get some treats and get your puppy to wait in place in a quiet room Step away from your puppy as you would with the waiting cue Then hold the treat out so your puppy can see it while saying, “come.” When your puppy gets to you, mark the action and give a reward. Repeat steps 1-4 until your puppy reliably comes to you. Slowly increase the difficulty level by increasing the number of distractions and the distance away from your pup. If your puppy fails to come when called, go back to the basics and start the steps from scratch. Training Your Puppy to Walk on a Lead Without Pulling Dogs pulling on leads when going on walks is one of the most common yet easiest problems to fix. The sooner you implement this training hack with your puppy, the less inclined s/he will be to pull on the lead at all. This tip is so successful that you can use it on any dog, but it might take some longer to grasp the concept than others. Put your puppy’s collar or harness on and clip on the lead. Start by walking around in your home or apartment with fewer distractions. The moment the lead has tension, stop walking. Stop dead in your tracks without looking at your pup or saying anything. Then, when the tension loosens, continue walking. Again, don’t reward your puppy or say anything. S/he will learn that a tight lead means you’re not going anywhere, and a loose lead means adventure. As your puppy reliably walks on a loose lead at home, you can start to take the walking outside. Again, when your puppy pulls, simply stand still until s/he doesn’t pull anymore. It’s as simple as that.
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Puppy Training Tips
Tips to set you and your puppy up for successOur puppy training tips are guaranteed to set you up for success. There are a few basic cues any puppy owner can start teaching their puppies. These cues are essential to setting boundaries, creating a solid puppy-owner bond, and stimulating your puppy’s mind. These cues will set your future training practices up for success by creating a solid foundation when your puppy’s mind is still like a sponge.Helpful Tips Before Training Your PuppyBefore starting with the step-by-step training guides, consider a few training tips. Knowing and implementing these suggestions will make training easier, getting the most out of each training session. The more consistently you implement these tips, the quicker your puppy will learn and the more training success you will have.Positive Reinforcement WorksThe basis of your reward system should be positive reinforcement. Like people, dogs need some reward showing them that they did something right. Using a high-quality reward that your puppy will love will prompt them to repeat activities that led to the reward in the first place. For instance, if you give your puppy a treat after sitting on command, s/he will reperform the task with more ease and willingness than when s/he didn’t receive a reward.Some people correct or scold their dogs if they don’t do as the owner asks. All this does is shut the dog’s mind down, making it less likely that information will be retained. So, don’t scold your dog. Instead, be patient and try the training steps again if your dog struggles.Using Markers Alongside Positive ReinforcementA marker is a sound you make to let your puppy know which exact action s/he just performed correctly. It could be a simple word, like “yes,” or it can be a clicker. For example, if you teach your puppy to sit, say “yes” or make a click the moment your puppy’s bum touches the ground. This way, s/he associates the correct action with the command you use.Without markers, dogs can get confused about what the owners want them to do. For example, if you teach your puppy to come to you, s/he might associate the command “come” with standing up from a sit instead of the action of walking toward you. So, it is essential to mark the action associated with your cue.Then, after you’ve given the marker, you can give a reward. The reward is a motivator, so your puppy repeats this acceptable behaviour in the future. So, to sum it up: A marker marks the correct action A reward is a positive reinforcement tool showing your pup s/he did something right You can use toys or treats as rewards. Our Training Treats ideal to use for little rewards as they are just a small piece ideal for little pup mouths and also they are low in calories but high in protein as they are 100% pure meat. Sprats are also great or if you want to give your pup a 'bigger' reward at the end of the session, Rabbit ears would be a good option.How Long to Train Your Puppy Every DayPuppies don’t have large attention spans, so don’t over-train them. Overtraining can make a puppy bored and cause them to dislike training in general. Instead, train your puppy for 5-10 minutes sessions at a time. You can include 1-5 sessions daily, depending on your puppy’s eagerness to learn or your available schedule. As you do these sessions, also add some variety to the training. For example, don’t just teach your puppy to sit in one session. Try to vary two different cues. It keeps your puppy’s mind sharp, and don’t let them predict which command comes next.Consistency is KeyWith every training session, puppies learn quicker when their owners use the same techniques, step-by-step guides, reward systems, markers, verbal cues, and rewards. Because dogs are creatures of habit that thrive on structure, consistency will make your training even more successful. Even if there comes a day when your puppy doesn’t want to learn, don’t lose heart or patience but stay consistent.Puppy Training Tips - The Key to Set Your Puppy Up for SuccessIt’s easy to get frustrated when our puppies don’t do as we ask, no matter how well we follow trainers’ advice and expertise. The fact is that your puppy will struggle at times. S/he won’t always be receptive to training, or some days s/he will struggle to understand you in training sessions. However, you can still do a few things to set your puppy up for success: Start each training session in an area with little to no distractions. The fewer distractions there are, the easier your puppy can focus on the task at hand. Only when your puppy reliably does a command in the quiet room can you move to an area with more distractions. The idea is that your puppy listens to your cues no matter the number of distractions. So, by slowly increasing your pup’s ability to listen and tolerate distractions, you will have more control in busy areas like the dog park. When you train a cue (e.g. “sit”), only say the word once. You want your puppy to learn that when you ask once, s/he should perform the associated action. If you use the command more than once, your puppy can learn that it’s okay to wait until you say it several times before s/he should comply. If your puppy fails to do a cue, try the step-by-step instructions again. Some puppies take longer to grasp a concept than others, and that’s okay. Never reward your puppy if s/he didn’t do exactly what you’ve asked. All this does is create confusion when training your puppy in the future. End each training session successfully. This means that your puppy should successfully perform the activity associated with the last cue you give in that session. So, if you’re teaching your puppy something new and s/he struggles to grasp it, let your puppy perform an action s/he already knows before ending the session. Finishing your training with success gives your puppy confidence and makes future training exciting. If you’re increasing the difficulty level of your training and your puppy makes a mistake, start the training steps from scratch. For example, imagine you’re teaching your puppy to stay, you’re increasing the difficulty from stepping two feet away to three, and your puppy moves out of the stay position. Then, go back to the basics and start the training as if your puppy has never done it before. This simple trick will help rewire your puppy’s brain and help prevent any bad behaviours from forming. Once you feel ready to do some training, please read our Ultimate Guide for First Time Dog Owners, which will guide you how to teach your pup basic commands such as sit, stay, wait, come, lie down and walk on a lead without pulling. In the meantime, good luck with your training and if you need any help, drop us a line.
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Can Dogs Eat Watermelon?
Is Watermelon Good for Dogs? I think we can all honestly agree that dogs are scavengers and as such they would eat pretty much anything. However, that doesn’t mean that they should. There are certain human foods that are harmful for dogs. Is watermelon one of them? Or can dogs safely enjoy this refreshing fruit on a hot summer day? The good news is that dogs can also enjoy this juicy fruit, however, there are some very important things to know first before giving your canine friend this juicy treat. Let’s start with the good stuff. Health Benefits of Watermelon: Helps with hydration. Watermelon is made of 92% water, which means it can be a good way to ensure your furry friend remains well hydrated, especially on a hot summer day. However, your dog should not rely on watermelon for hydration. Packed with nutrients. Watermelon is a rich source of nutrients, including potassium, magnesium, vitamin A, B6 and C. Vitamin A is essential for maintaining good vision and support bone growth. Vitamin C plays a key role in immunity and potassium is key for normal nerve function, muscle contraction and healthy heart function. Rich source of Antioxidants. In addition to Vitamin C, watermelon also contains carotenoids, lycopene and cucurbitacin E, which all boast antioxidant properties and therefore essential in fighting free radicals, which can cause damage to the cells in the body contributing to health issues such as heart diseases, cancer or diabetes. Great source of fibre. Fibre is important in good digestion and maintaining normal bowel movements. Fibre also helps counteract the effects of the sugar found in watermelon by preventing it from being absorbed into the bloodstream too quickly. Low in calories. The high water content also ensures that watermelon is low in calories, sodium and free from fat and cholesterol. However, dogs that have diabetes or sugar sensitivities as well as dogs that are obese should not be given the fruit. May reduce inflammation. Most chronic diseases are ’born out’ of prolonged inflammation in the body. The combination of antioxidants, lycopene, and vitamin C in watermelon may help lower inflammation and oxidative damage. Supports skin health. Vitamins A and C (both found in watermelon) are important in skin health. In one study, animals with vitamin A deficiency had poorer wound healing than those fed a nutritionally complete diet (Vitamin A and Wound Healing). Can dogs eat watermelon rind? Make sure that your dog does not eat watermelon rind. It’s not safe for them to consume, as it can become a serious choking hazard or create an intestinal blockage. If your dog has swallowed a watermelon rind, visit your vet immediately. Can Dogs Eat Watermelon Seeds? The short answer is no as the black seeds contain cyanide, although it’s unlikely that a dog would be able to eat enough of them to be poisoned. The seeds can also be a potential choking hazard. If your dog has eaten some of the seeds, you might need to contact your vet. A small amount is unlikely to cause any issues, however, best to watch put for any symptoms of an upset stomach: Decreased appetite or loss of appetite Fatigue Acting depressed Looking uncomfortable Gulping or licking their lips, the air, or objects If you notice any of these symptoms, contact your veterinarian right away. Worsening symptoms include: Vomiting Excessive diarrhoea Blood in their vomit or stool Weakness Collapse If you notice any of these more serious symptoms, call your vet and take your dog to the vet immediately. How Much Watermelon Can a Dog Eat? Even healthy treats should only make up 10% of your dog’s overall diet. And the other 90% should come from a well-balanced dog food diet. To help make the portions a little easier, below are some general guidelines for safe watermelon treat sizes based on your dog’s weight. Each “slice” should only be about 2cm x 2cm x 0.5cm thick: Small dog (Beagles, Spaniels) = 2-3 slices of watermelon Medium dog (Border collie) = 5-6 slices of watermelon Large dog (Retrievers, German Shepherds) = handful of watermelon slices Extra-large dog (St. Bernard's) = large handful of watermelon slices How to feed your dog watermelon? It can be made into enticing ice cube treats mixed with or without other healthy ingredients that your dog will be unable to resist while keeping cool. However, make sure your dogs’ teeth are good and won’t be damaged by chewing frozen food. Remove the seeds, mash or blend a little watermelon, then pour it over your dog’s food, or put it in a hoof or buffalo horn to freeze and serve later. You can also spread it on a lickpad. Make your pup a fruit smoothie by blending up watermelon with some other dog-safe fruits like bananas or strawberries. Then combine that fruit mixture with plain, sugar-free, Greek yogurt. Refrigerate the mixture so you can put a little on top of your dog’s food later. Or you can put it in their KONG toy to freeze for a very refreshing treat. Watermelon can be a great addition to a dog’s diet. Cutting the watermelon into small easy-to-chew cubes after removing the seeds and rind is a great way to make a small and healthy treat for your dog. But remember, no more than 10% of your dog’s daily calorie intake should come from treats and no more than 20% from fruit and vegetables so give watermelon in moderation.
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How to Puppy Proof Your House
Preparing your home, garden and yourself for your new arrivalBefore you even get your puppy, there are a few things to think about, like preparing yourself and your home. Although your home is perfect for yourself and your family to live in, it might not necessarily be puppy-friendly enough. Because puppies don’t know the lay of the land yet, you need to prepare your home to keep them safe while teaching them boundaries. So, let’s look at some tips and tricks to keep your puppy out of harm’s way.Puppy Proof Your HomeWhen you prepare your home keep the puppy in mind. Look around and ask yourself whether the puppy will be safe and comfortable in each room. As you do this, remove or secure potential hazards and create cosy nooks to ensure a puppy-friendly area. Here are the tips and tricks to prepare your home:Barricade entrances to off-limits areas. Decide which areas you don’t want your puppy to go, whether it’s rooms you wish to keep dog-free or whether it’s to keep your pup out of harm’s way. For example, some people don’t want dogs to go into their bedrooms. Other times people put a puppy gate at the top and bottom of stairs to keep the pups from falling. So, block the entrances to areas where your puppy could be in harm’s way or where you don’t want them to go.Lock cleaning chemicals away. Be mindful of where you store your cleaning chemicals. Puppies don’t know that it can make them sick, so they might ingest it if they get the chance. So, be sure that you safely store the cleaning chemicals where your puppy can’t reach them. Even if you keep those supplies in a bottom cabinet, ask yourself whether your puppy will be able to get the door open. If so, consider moving the chemicals to a top-shelf.Secure loose wires and electric cables. Puppies tend to chew on everything at first, so ensure that your puppy can’t reach the electric wires or cables. It can cause serious electric harm to the pup if s/he chews on one of those wires, and it can even be fatal. Not only can a puppy chew on the cables, but they can trip over them and drag items to fall on top of them, causing unwanted injuries.Put items on side tables or coffee tables away. Any objects on coffee tables or side tables that are not secure in place can fall over and harm your puppy. So, ask yourself what the likelihood of the item falling down is. If it’s a high probability, secure the item so it won’t fall or store it somewhere else until the puppy is old enough not to bump things off.Store medications out of reach. Many human medications are hazardous to a dog’s health. So, instead of keeping medicine where a puppy can reach it, store it someplace safe. For example, some people keep their medication on the bedside table, but if your puppy sleeps on your bed, s/he can get hold of the pills.Keep windows and doors closed. While puppies still figure out how to manoeuvre their bodies, keep doors and windows closed, so they don’t accidentally fall or jump out and get hurt. Be mindful of this, especially if you live in an apartment or where your pup can fall far down.Ensure that the bin is secured. Puppies are curious little things and will explore anything that smells alluring. It includes accidentally bumping over the trashcan for further investigation. Then the puppies can chew or swallow items that are either not good for their diet, get stuck in their throats, or seriously harm them. So, ensure your trashcan is secured in place or stored away from your pup’s reach.Keep dangerous house plants out of reach. There are so many houseplants that are toxic to dogs and can cause harmful side effects. So, do some research about the house plants in your area that are hazardous to dogs. Then, if you have some of those, either get rid of them or ensure that your puppy can’t reach them and start chewing on them.Create a safe space to sleep. Get your puppy a dog bed and blanket or pillow. A puppy must have a place to nap where s/he can feel safe. When these pups were still in a litter, they counted on their littermates and mum to help keep them warm. Now that the puppy doesn’t have that anymore, s/he needs a cosy spot to meet those needs. A dog crate with the door off and a blanket inside is the perfect safety nest for a pup.Puppy Proof Your GardenJust like making your home puppy-safe, you should do the same with your garden, paddock, or any outside area your puppy will have access to. Here are some things to consider when doing that:Fencing so your puppy can’t escape. Ensure that you barricade your outside area properly so your puppy can’t escape. Some fences have large holes where the pup can fit through, so consider adding reinforced material (like mesh) to keep the puppy from squeezing through.Keep your puppy away from hazardous plants. Again, many garden plants are toxic to dogs. So, research the plants you have in your garden and whether they’re safe for your puppy. If not, consider either getting rid of the plants or putting up barriers so your puppy can’t reach them. WE have already written an article detailing poisonous garden plants, which you might find helpful.Lock garden or pool chemicals away. Be careful of any garden or pool chemicals lying around. Your puppy can ingest them and get very sick. So, consider locking it away in a shed, cupboard, or shelf high enough so the puppy can’t reach them.Block access to pools or ponds. Keep in mind that this is only applicable if you're lucky enough to have a pool or pond built into the ground. Most puppies have an instinct to swim, so a pool or pond isn’t dangerous because a puppy can’t swim. It’s dangerous because the puppies get shocked when falling into the water and panic. They also don’t know where the steps are to exit the water. So, until you didn’t teach this to your puppy numerous times, block access to pools or ponds.Provide enough shelter from the elements. Give puppies protection from weather elements like the sun, wind, or rain, especially if they will spend most of their time outside. And when it snows, bring your puppy inside. Some people prefer to leave their dogs out when they go to work, and that’s perfectly fine. As long as the dog has a shelter, s/he should be fine. With this in mind, think about how comfortable the puppy will be in the sheltered area. Is it warm enough, cool enough, doesn’t let the wind through, and is water-resistant?Have fresh water available. Your puppy should always have fresh water available both inside and outside every day (unless your vet advises you otherwise). Puppies can quickly get dehydrated, so they need continuous access to water. And you’ll have to put out fresh water every day to ensure that there aren’t any bacteria, fungus, or parasites that can enter your puppy’s system.If you have a lawn, keep it trimmed. Ticks and parasites usually like to hide in the long grass. So if you have a yard, ensure that it is cut regularly.Have a designated toileting area and keep it clean. Create a designated toileting area for your pup and pick up the faeces as soon as possible. It helps keep the site hygienic and prevents the puppy from eating the excretions.Prepare YourselfNext, you have to be prepared for all aspects of puppy parenthood. Take some time to research the puppy you’re getting and how to be a good puppy parent. Here are some tips and tricks that might help:Know what to expect from your puppyEvery puppy is different, so prepare yourself for your specific puppy. You can consult your breeder, the rescue centre, or even your vet. As you do this, find out more about your puppy’s: Feeding schedule: what, how much, how often, and when should s/he eat? House training needs: is s/he housetrained? (if not, read the next chapter) (Separate article on How to toilet-train a puppy?) Amount of exercise needed: It’s usually 5 minutes per month of age daily Your puppy’s character traits: every breed has different character traits, so be prepared for what your puppy’s characteristics may be Choose your local vetLook for the local veterinarians in your area and choose one as your go-to vet for your puppy. It’s good to narrow this down because you won’t have time to do this research in an emergency. Also, ensure that you have an emergency number written down.What will you do with the puppy when you work or travel?Dogs should usually not be home alone for more than 6 hours. It may be shorter for puppies, especially when they first arrive at their new homes. So, consider taking your puppy to daycare, getting a pet sitter, or having a friend or family member look after the pup. Until you’re confident your puppy can cope when home alone, don’t let them be alone for too long at first.There is also quite a lot of basic equipment that you will need, such as bowls, crate, collar, toothbrush, etc. (please see our Ultimate Guide for First Time Dog Owners for a comprehensive list), it is not essential to purchase everything brand new or at once. It's best to start with items that are essential for keeping them safe and well-looked after.Puppies, just like babies, are completely dependent on you and their safety should be your number one priority. It's a big responsibility but totally worth it!SUMMARY - Prepare your home Barricade entrances to off-limits areas Lock cleaning chemicals away Secure loose wires and electric cables Put items on side tables or coffee tables away Store medications out of reach Keep windows and doors closed Ensure that the bin is secured Keep dangerous house plants out of reach Create a safe space to sleep SUMMARY - Prepare Your Garden Fencing so your puppy can’t escape Keep your puppy away from hazardous plants Lock garden or pool chemicals away Block access to pools or ponds Provide enough shelter from the elements Have fresh water available If you have a lawn, keep it trimmed If you have a lawn, keep it trimmed Keep garden tools out of reach
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The Benefits of Having a Dog
The benefits of having a dog One of the most exciting things in life is to get a puppy. It is a magical time where you experience many firsts through your puppy's eyes. You get to see them explore new things and how they try to make sense of this big world they’ve entered. Not only do puppies give us joy and entertainment, but they also provide us with loyalty and friendship. It is probably one reason you’re considering getting a puppy (or you’ve done so already). As most dog owners will tell you: dogs provide a sense of companionship that doesn’t quite measure up to our other relationships. It is the type of loyalty and friendship that stands the test of time and improves the owner’s life, providing some surprising benefits along the way. Dogs Are Loyal to the BoneWhen thinking of a dog, the first word that comes to mind is LOYALTY. Dogs are known for their unconditional loyalty to their pack, which in this case is you and your family. Your dog will have a strong feeling of devotion, support, and alliance toward you without any ulterior motives. But why are dogs so loyal in the first place? It’s in a dog’s nature to be loyal. You might have heard that dogs are pack animals, but what does that mean? Dogs naturally thrive better when they move in a group that makes up their family or pack. In this pack setting, dogs rely on each other for survival and companionship. For instance, in the wild, some dogs may be better at protecting, while others may be better at scent work and seeking out potential food sources.Although your pet is domesticated, s/he still has the natural instinct that living in a pack is better for their survival. So, instead of relying on other dogs for survival, companionship, and sociability, your dog depends on you and your family.But what does this have to do with loyalty? Well, being in a pack means that each dog needs to be loyal to the rest for maximum chances of survival. If some pack members are not reliable, the pack’s survival will falter. So, a dog feels compelled to have a sense of allegiance and support to the pack. That’s the only way they know how to survive. Dogs have a shared history with people.Thousands of years ago, there weren’t any domesticated dogs on earth. It is only through the accidental domestication of some wolves that dogs came to exist as we know them today. That’s thanks to the shared history between wolves and people.As you can figure out, dogs are descended from wolves. Although there is no clear evidence on how domestication started, there are a few theories on the topic. The most popular theory is that people used to set up camp in the wild (keep in mind that housing consisted of tents, not the secure buildings we have today).As people prepared food, they had to put their scraps somewhere. This lured the wolves closer to the people’s tents. The closer the wolves got to the humans and the more they benefited from the people’s scraps, the more wolves chose to stick around humans as they travelled.For a few thousand years, some wolves grew loyal to people because they got food and sometimes even affection from some people. Scientists believe that this shared history between humans and wolves attributes to the deep form of loyalty our dogs have toward us today. Dogs are loyal to those who meet their needs.Like with any relationship, if you take care of one another, loyalty comes naturally. In your puppy’s case, it means that you provide them with everything s/he needs to live a comfortable life. If dogs feel safe and fulfilled in their environments, they will be devoted to the hand who made it possible.These needs are more than just providing food and shelter. It means creating a living environment where your dog feels totally safe. Here’s a list of needs every dog has, and if you meet all of them, your dog will be loyal forever: A dog needs a safe place to sleep where s/he is protected from harsh weather conditions and has a peaceful night’s rest. The safer your dog feels at night, the better s/he will sleep, and the more trust s/he will put in you. A dog needs a reliable food schedule, so s/he doesn’t feel the need to scavenge for food by her-/himself (greedy ones might still do this though LOL). A dog needs enough physical and mental stimulation so that s/he won’t get bored. Some owners take this need for granted, but your dog needs daily stimulation. The less bored s/he is and the more attention you give, the better your bond will be, and thus the loyalty as well. A dog needs a person who ensures the dog’s health is as good as possible. This includes preventative measures as well as noticing the smallest issue, like a cut on the paw. As a person who loves dogs, you will naturally tune in with your dog and notice if something is wrong. A dog needs grooming according to their needs. Some dogs need more frequent grooming than others. But if these practices are neglected, dogs can get serious skin infections or painful mats. A dog needs social interactions, whether with other people or dogs. They are social beings and thrive in social settings. These are all the basic needs of each dog. If an owner doesn’t meet these needs, it can place unwanted stress on the dog and diminish the level of trust. Think about it. If a dog feels unsafe in the pack, it means the pack doesn’t have their back. In turn, it means that s/he doesn’t have to be loyal to someone who couldn’t ensure their survival. 5. Dogs may experience an emotion similar to how we experience love. Studies show that the part of a puppy’s brain similar to a person’s love centre lights up when s/he smells their human’s scent. These scientists examined the activity in dogs’ brains when they smelled different items like toys and food, etc. It was only when an item of clothing of the owner was presented to the dogs that the part associated with love lit up. So, scientists believe that dogs can feel a form of love, especially toward their owners. We all know that love is a powerful emotion, and we would do anything for those we love. Similarly, dogs who love us will do anything to protect us or make us happy. That support and devotion is the epitome of loyalty. Why Puppies Become Your Best Friend Dogs provide a sense of companionship that starts forming when you bring your puppy home. There’s more to dogs than having another living being in the house. It also means that you get a best friend for as long as s/he lives. Having this canine friend in your corner means you’ll never be lonely. You’ll learn valuable lessons and benefit from each other’s company while stimulating the dog’s instincts. Let’s have a closer look at what this means: Your dog is always there for you, no matter what: Like unconditional love and loyalty, your dog will always be there for you to provide comfort, companionship, and love. It is the type of friend you can always count on. You and your dog learn from each other: Both dog and owner can learn many valuable lessons from each other. For instance, dogs learn how to act appropriately in the human world. On the other hand, people can learn the true meaning of unconditional love and how to protect a sentient being. You and your dog have a mutually beneficial relationship: You already know that your dog benefits from meeting their needs, but you can benefit from a dog in your life. Some people experience less stress because of their dogs, and others feel less lonely (see the benefits of getting a puppy below). It’s in your dog’s nature to befriend you, the caretaker: Becoming your friend goes hand in hand with your dog’s instinct to be in a pack. You are now your dog’s pack family and therefore get to experience the joy of canine friendship. How Getting a Puppy Benefit Your Life Most people don’t get puppies for the sake of getting one. They have reasons for adopting these pups. The most common reasons are that people seek unconditional companionship or they’d like to feel less lonely at home. Although these are the most common reasons, other benefits of getting a puppy might surprise you. These benefits are: Research shows that puppies reduce people’s stress levels: Studies show that people with dogs experience lower stress levels than those without dogs. It’s probably because petting a dog releases the feel-good hormone (oxytocin) and decreases the stress hormone (cortisol). Puppies provide protection (in the long run): Although your puppy can’t necessarily protect you against harm now, s/he will grow up with a strong urge to keep you safe as s/he grows up. It can be protecting you against harm or warning you of any potential dangers, etc. Having a puppy makes you more active: It doesn’t matter which dog breed you get; they all need to be active to keep their physical health top-notch. Most dogs need to go for daily walks, so the more you walk your dog, the more active you become. Research shows that people with dogs have better heart health: Studies show that people with dogs have lower blood pressure. That’s probably because stress is a massive contributor to heart conditions. So, because a dog can help lower your stress levels, s/he contributes to your heart health as well. Having a puppy curbs loneliness: This one is quite obvious, but getting a dog will make you feel less lonely. Whether it’s the pup’s mere presence in an otherwise quiet home or their physical touch, it provides company. Getting a puppy can make you more social: Let’s be honest; a puppy is a great conversation piece. Wherever you go, you can use your puppy as a buffer for conversation. Not only do you have something to talk about if things get awkward, but you’ll seem more approachable to other people, setting you up for social success. It’s interesting to note that studies proved people with dogs make friends easier than those without dogs. Puppies can help people cope in crises: If you are prone to anxiety or other conditions like post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD), then a puppy can help you manage when you have an episode. Usually, if these conditions are severe, you would get a service dog who is trained on how to react to an episode. But even people with mild cases of anxiety or everyday stressors will benefit from the calming effect dogs have. Well, that is plenty of benefits for having these gorgeous creatures in our lives. However, it is important that you get a puppy that suits YOUR life. You have to think about the characteristics of the adult dog and not just the gorgeous puppy. There are also some very important questions to ask from the breeder or rescue centre to make sure that your chosen dog is healthy. Our Ultimate Guide for First Time Dog Owners discuss in detail all the things you need to consider before choosing a puppy as well as questions to ask.
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